Tomato Kumato

September 26, 2006

Little Italy

Filed under: Beef, Pasta — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 4:48 pm

I am still sans camera, so the words in this post are going to have to do. I may come back and edit in some pictures later. Hopefully I’ll have my little baby back and functioning soon!

This weekend, I took a nice walk from my apartment to Kensington, taking advantage of some of the last nice, sunny days. I did most of my grocery shopping, but the butcher I usually use was closed, and considering the fact that one of the other two smelled like a farm, and the last one was very poorly stocked and didn’t have what I was looking for, I went down a few more blocks along College to Little Italy.

When I first moved to Toronto, last year, one of the first things I did was to hit the city’s website (toronto.ca) and look for Little Italy. I’ve always felt that no matter where I go, the Italian neighbourhood of a city will always feel somewhat like home.

I spent a lot of time in Little Italy last year, mostly because it was so close to home. I did most of my grocery shopping at the Magnolia Specialty Foods Store, which I sadly discovered this weekend was closed. A little more expensive than most grocery stores, Magnolia made up for it in quality. All of the name brand olive oils I recognized, San Marzano canned tomatoes from Italy, and beautiful produce filled the small store, and I know it will be missed by the entire neighbourhood (a lady who was reading the notice with me shared my sentiments).

That is one of the nice things about Little Italy; much like the country it’s named for, the people who live here are friendly even to strangers. People are known to hang out in Caffe Diplomatico and meet random strangers while enjoying a piece of pizza or an espresso and biscotto.

I finally arrived at my destination, Grace’s Meat Market, at Grace and College to procure ground veal. I walked up to the counter and asked about it, and the woman behind the counter looked at me, pondering, and then called into the back in Italian. A man in a white butcher’s coat came out and looked at me, repeating my order, “Ground veal?”

“Yes,” I answered, worried that I had come all this way in vain.

He looked at me one more moment, then rolled up his sleeves and asked, “How much?”

The fact that this tiny meat market will grind meat to order for customers, even such a paltry amount as I needed, reminded me why I love this community. I brought my wares straight home and spent the rest of the afternoon and evening making my bolognese sauce, canning most of it, but serving some over some artisinal orecchiete that I picked up at Grace’s.

Orecchiete Bolognese

As with most recipes that have been passed down, there is really no exact recipe to this. Taste as you go, and if something doesn’t taste right, adjust. Here’s a jumping off point, to get you started.

Brown half a pound of ground veal in extra-virgin olive oil in a sturdy dutch-oven or similar large pot. Remove the veal and keep it warm. Sweat one sweet onion, finely chopped, and one carrot, also finely chopped, in the same pot, until very tender and sweet. Season with salt, pepper, dried oregano, and dried red pepper flakes. Use a pair of kitchen shears to cut up the contents of two cans of whole San Marzano tomatoes and add them to the pot. Add a tablespoon of tomato paste and a teaspoon of sugar. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and cook, uncovered, stirring from time to time. Once the tomatoes have mostly broken down, add the cooked meat, and cook for an hour or two. Sauce can be stored in tupperware in the fridge for a week, or canned and frozen (or kept in the cellar).

When ready to serve, heat the sauce in a saucepan while your pasta cooks in salted water. Add a little bit of cream to the sauce, and stir in the hot pasta. Serve with grated Parmesan or Pecorino cheese.

September 24, 2006

My House Smells Like Fall.

Filed under: Muffins and Cupcakes — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 4:45 pm

I told my friend this, and he said, “So what does that smell like? Leaves?” Pumpkin. Cloves. Nutmeg. Cinnamon. I just baked Pumpkin Walnut Muffins, and the second I grated the nutmeg into the batter, a rush of memories, mostly from Thanksgiving, came floating into my tiny, apartment kitchen.

My mother is one of those people who goes all out for the seasons. During the summer, the house smells like basil, and a pile of tomatoes constantly sits atop the counter. When spring rolls around, it’s flowers everywhere, and there is the distinct smell of Extra Virgin Olive Oil throughout the kitchen, from the simple preparation she takes with the season’s fresh produce. In the winter, of course, the Christmas decorations come out, and the house smells of hearty stews and soups. With fall comes apple dapple, multicoloured indian corn, and the smell of nutmeg in everything. For the first time since I moved out of my house, I really feel like it’s fall–how silly is that? No matter, I’ve discovered how to do it, and as I sit here eating a muffin, hot out of the oven, I’m considering my mother’s butternut squash soup, pumpkin pie, and sweet mashed yams.

Get psyched… this fall is going to be fun!

September 23, 2006

Cream Puffs in Venice

Filed under: Uncategorized — emiglia @ 11:19 pm

If I had to pick one food blog I’m addicted to, it would have to be Ivonne’s. I check it daily, hopefully anticipating a new recipe to add to my list of things to try, a beautiful picture of something that makes me drool all over my keyboard, or a funny anecdote. She has a voice all her own that makes every entry something new and exciting. I’ve read all of her backlogged entries, which, believe me, is a commitment, but I enjoyed the entire journey. Her blog sometimes reads more like a novel than a blog, and we can follow her journey of food discovery, with one of her many cookbooks leading the way each month. If you haven’t already dropped by this amazing blog, I highly recommend it.

September 21, 2006

Green Plums

Filed under: Pie — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 8:33 am

Something awful has happened. My camera has died.

Well… I guess in reality, it’s not as awful as all that. You see, my camera isn’t dead so much as in hibernation: I seem to have lost the battery charger. And until then, no more food pictures. And without pictures, well what in the world is the point of posting?

No bother. I took some pictures of a green plum tart I made a few weeks ago, and I’ve been meanig to write a post about them. And if I can’t find this damn charger, I’m just going to buy a second one, so fear not! New food porn will not be gone for too long.

Green plums, contrary to what one may think, are not just red plums that are underripe. They are their own breed of plum, tart, with a fibrous texture, and a very small pit. They are in season at the end of the summer, which is when I picked these babies up, along with some more typical red-skinned plums.

Whoops! Not nearly enough plums for a tart. Luckily, I had some peaches lying around.

Yum. I covered this tart with the same crumble recipe I’ve used many times before and served it to my friends. Yum.

The other day, my mom called me up to ask, of all things, how the weather was up here in the Great White North. I had to tell the truth; though it was a beautiful, clear day, there was that unmistakable sense of fall, that one that suddenly makes me crave pumpkin and nutmeg, heaping plates of steamy spaghetti and tomato sauce, and hot cafe au lait served in huge bowls instead of mugs. It’s sad but true… it’s time for me to bid goodbye to summer. Today is the official start date of fall, but while for the past few years, summer has been my favourite season, I’m not quite as sad this year for it to be ending. I’m in my new apartment, back in Toronto with all my friends, and I have some amazing new fall shoes. I am forced to think back to a much younger, much wiser me, whose favourite season was fall up until the teen years. Maybe that little me is back again, because not only am I excited to see the leaves fall and to pull out my fall sweaters, but I can’t wait for that first apple dapple!

(*GASP* You’ve never had apple dapple? Oh… you are in for a treat, dear reader.)

September 20, 2006

Porto Rico

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 8:10 am

OK… I can see how this could be getting a little confusing… see… I live in two cities.

It’s actually a bit more complicated than that. If I’ve lived anywhere (and I mean lived in the lightest of ways. I count places I’ve lived in for three months), then I count it as home. I was born and raised in New York City, but spent weekends, summers, and holidays in Westhampton Beach, on Long Island. In the seventh grade, my family moved to San Francisco, California, and then the year after, we moved back to New York. One year after moving back, I spent three months in Mouvaux, a neighbor town of Lille, in the north of France. The year after that, I started going to boarding school in Andover, Massachusetts. I graduated three years later, and now find myself in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. *Whew* that’s a mouthful.

So as you can see, I have a connection to many places all over the globe, however, I feel the strongest connections to my hometown, New York, and my newest home, Toronto, which is why I’ve decided to devote a daily blog to each one.

Which brings me to today, and Porto Rico. My sister and I discovered Porto Rico after passing it one day on Bleecker street and recognizing the name from a book we had both just read called Smart vs. Pretty (I’m smart, she’s pretty).

Porto Rico is heaven on Earth for any coffee-lover. It’s a wholesale coffee store displaying its wares in the big, burlap sacks they come in. They provide coffee in bulk to the coffee stores nearby, but they also sell brewed coffee and pound and half pound bags to the public.

161520154_6f5030b50d_bWhenever I’m in the area, I hit Porto Rico. We generally buy our coffee from Peet’s, but at half the price and twice the quality, I often find myself coming back up on the subway, my bag and clothes, reeking of coffee, concealing what has been termed by the MTA “a suspicious package”.

The store has three locations, and perhaps its the one I frequent that forbids photos, but every time I’ve been, one of the employees has lunged at me the second my digital camera threatens to even come out of my bag. However, I did puruse flickr and find a few pictures, the credit for which I must attribue to roboppy and aaroncorey.

September 19, 2006

Kensington Market

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — emiglia @ 8:07 pm

Kensington Market. *sigh* A known mecca within the student population here in Toronto as a place to go for cheap clothing and cheaper weed, I go not for the sketchy, strung out scenesters, but for the wholesale markets. Kensington is a dream come true for any foodie, with at least one, if not two or three specialty shops carrying anything and everything under the sun, from fruits and veggies to imported cheeses to fish and meat, even imported foods one cannot usually find, like Italian amaretti cookies and Mexican chipotle chiles in adobo. A neighbor to Chinatown, and not a far walk from Little Italy either, once near Kensington and College streets, you can get anything and everything your little heart desires.

Kensington Market only spans a few blocks, but within these confines, there are virtually no cars (most people park in Chinatown). Vendors stand in front of their stores, knowing that with all the choice out there, a typical shopper could have any of many assorted reasons for choosing a particular shop.

As for me, I am loyal to several vendors. I frequent Oxford Fruit for fruits and veggies, mostly because everything in front of the store is always so fresh-looking and bright, but also because when I buy enough food that I expect to be forking over at least $40, I end up paying no more than $25.


I like Global Cheese for cheese just for the sheer variety, although I have hit nearby Cheese Magic a few times.

Seven Seas Fish and Coral Fish are right next door to one another, but I usually hit Seven Seas, because it smells less fishy, and they usually have a better selection. Both stores, however, have large glass windows, and if I see something I like at Coral, I may duck in there.

I’m including a picture of the Augusta Egg Market to illustrate the extreme variety of goods found in Kensington. OK… that’s a lie. I’m including it because it’s hilarious. I went in once, just to confirm my suspicions. Yup. It just sells eggs.

September 18, 2006

The Clam Box

Filed under: Seafood — Tags: , — emiglia @ 8:30 pm

I recently visited The Clam Box in Ipswich, MA, famous for its fried seafood including scallops, mussels, haddock, and of course, its namesake, the clam strip.

One interesting aspect of the restaurant is the fact that it is shaped like a clam box, the container in which the seafood is sold.

Once inside, one is greeted with a large menu over two windows. Each customer places his order at the order window inside the restaurant, and then the food is delivered at the adjacent window in a “clam box.” You can then elect to either eat inside the restaurant dining room, which is made up of several large, wooden tables, or to take your food out to one of the picnic tables behind the parking lot. It is a simple place with simple, good food.

When I went, I ordered the fried scallops. In retrospect, I probably should have ordered the namesake clams, but I am always tempted when I see scallops. The food is everything the restaurant promises, and nothing more. The batter is tasty and the seafood is of impeccable quality. Each dish is served with french fries, simple, but a good accompaniment. I was impressed with the quality of the malt vinegar I was given when I requested it. All in all, if you are looking for a typical clam shack and are in the area, the Clam Box is a good place to hit.

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