Tomato Kumato

December 21, 2006

Quesadillas

Filed under: Chicken, cheese — Tags: , , , , — emiglia @ 8:43 pm

I just came back home from school for my Christmas vacation. I’m headed to Italy, so there should be some cool new posts coming up. But this isn’t about Italy, or even Italian food. It’s about those last few days before coming home, when my roommate forbade me from going to the grocery store, and I had to cook only with what was in the fridge.

Quesadillas are a great, quick, easy food that are so versatile that it doesn’t matter if all that’s left in your fridge is some chicken, mushrooms, and half an onion. Throwing everything together in a tortilla and covering it with hot sauce may not be gourmet… but it’s fricking delicious.

December 17, 2006

Kirsten’s Home Cooking Adventures

Filed under: Chicken, Rice, Side Dishes — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 1:54 am

Kirsten’s Home Cooking Adventures is one of those blogs that is almost entirely devoted to recipes… and I’m thankful for it. Whenever I’m not sure what to make for dinner, I head over to Kirsten’s to browse her meticulously organized recipe database.

Tonight, for example, I was looking for something to do with the chicken breasts I had sitting around the fridge, and Kirsten, of course, had an answer:  Memorial Day Citrus Chicken. Granted, hers was grilled on the BBQ on Memorial Day, and mine was poached in the delicious marinade, but I still have Kirsten to thank for my delicious dinner… and dinner many a night when I can’t come up with anything! I urge all of you to head over and check it out.

December 15, 2006

Comfort Food

Filed under: polenta — Tags: , — emiglia @ 11:19 pm

Comfort food means different things to different people. It’s tied to memory, to home. For my father, this means spaghetti and meatballs, like his grandmother, who barely spoke English, used to make. For my mother, it’s all-American Thanksgiving dinner, complete with cranberry sauce, which she has made for her family every year since she was fourteen. For my best friend from high school, it’s fresh corn on the cob, like she ate every summer with her cousins in Michigan.

Even for me, comfort food can mean many things. Often, it’s simple macaroni and cheese, baked with a breadcrumb topping. Other times, I mimick my father and go for hearty spaghetti with rich, red sauce. On cold winter mornings, however, my favourite thing in the world is maple polenta.

Polenta is comforting in and of itself: I have a theory that anything slow cooked on the stovetop with a wooden spoon is automatically comfort food. Polenta takes time and patience, but it’s worth it, especially when stained with a little bit of pure, Canadian maple syrup and some sweet butter.

I don’t make maple polenta often: I’m of the morning coffee camp and generally don’t eat until around noon or one. But a few days ago, when Toronto was dusted with just a little bit of white powder, I knew that it was a maple polenta kind of morning.

Pizza

Filed under: Pizza — Tags: , — emiglia @ 2:52 pm


My brother and father would kill me if they knew that this was my excuse for pizza: a few years ago, my father built a pizza oven in our backyard, and it and the breadmaker are the only items in the kitchen that my mother doesn’t dare touch, for fear of facing the wrath of “the men.”

My brother and father, like most men of Southern Italian descent, take pizza very seriously. While sometimes we pick up a few balls of pizza dough from our local pizzeria, my brother likes to make his own, complete with semolina flour and a cornmeal crusted bottom, in the breadmaker. We head to Sonny’s, our favourite Italian pork store, or sometimes even to Mike’s Deli in the Bronx, and my brother carefully selects the best prosciutto di parma, arugula, pecorino romano, and of course, “fior di latte:” mozzarella.

Back at home, my mother contributes her famous San Marzano tomato marinara sauce, thickened with extra tomato paste, and the girls begin our job of assembling the pizzas, which my brother and father bake in the backyard, in the oven that has been heating all day.

As compared with my father’s signature pizza, with prosciutto, mozzarella, and an egg lightly fried, topped with fresh, raw arugula that just barely wilts on top, my pizza is a bit of a sad excuse. With a store-bought whole wheat tortilla as a crust, tomato paste and my own tomato sauce, tasting faintly of tin because of the inexpensive tomatoes I used from the local Rabba, melted mozzarella and cheddar mix that is the all-purpose cheese for quesadillas and grilled cheese in my house, and a few leaves of basil on top, I feel like a bit of a failure as far as pizza making is concerned.

But if I close my eyes, the oregano I add to the sauce somehow makes it taste a little bit closer to home. The tortilla lacks the flavour of my brother’s semolina crust, but none of the texture. And fresh basil is very hard to screw up. I may never match the men in my family: I have no room in my house for a pizza oven, and neither the patience nor the time to make a pizza dough every time I want a light supper for myself, but pizza is good in any form, and I have the memories of those summer days eating hot pizza barefoot in the grass, mozzarella stringing with every bite, the dog hovering for scraps, and the burst of a barely cooked egg yolk, soaked up with my brother’s homemade crust.

December 11, 2006

L’Entrecôte

Filed under: Beef — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 12:11 am

SCENE: Evening.
You are seated at a long wooden table at a small, intimate restaurant in Paris, illuminated only by candlelight, waiting patiently for the waitress to arrive.

“How would you like it cooked?”

This is the ordering experience at L’Entrecôte in Paris, France. No, the waitresses are not telepathic; there’s just only one thing on the menu: salad, fries, and steak, cooked any way you like. And you want it rare.

This is an amazing steak. L’Entrecôte doesn’t take reservations because they know they don’t have to: by 7:30, the restaurant is full; obscenely early for a Paris diner. After the table has “ordered,” the waitresses bring by huge serving bowls of salad, simple greens, simply dressed. Quite delicious, but it doesn’t hold a candle to what you are about to experience.

The steak is always cooked to perfection, the fries are crisp and flavourful, but the real goodness? The sauce.

Lucky me, my mother fell in love with it too, and after a lot of experimentation on us, her guinea pigs, she figured it out, as she always does.

And now I’m here to share it with you! Don’t be taken aback by the pinkish hue… it’s amazing. We have yet to figure out how the Parisians acheive a more muted color… I’m convinced that it has to do with fresh tarragon. At any rate, it tastes the same, and if I close my eyes, I feel like I’m back in Paris.

L’Entrecôte Steak

Season a room-temperature steak liberally with salt and pepper. Heat olive oil in a frying pan until almost smoking, and then add the steak. Cook until desired doneness is acheived (ahem. rare). Remove steak and keep warm. Add a tablespoon of Tarragon Dijon Mustard. Whisk in a quarter cup (approximately) of good, dry red wine. Return the steak to the pan and coat both sides with sauce. Serve with extra sauce on the side.

Naturally, this can be doubled, tripled, quadrupled… it’s worth it. It’s best served with fries, but if you’re feeling lazy, as I was, some toast rubbed with garlic and olive oil will do nicely.

December 9, 2006

Anne’s Food

Filed under: Cookies — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 3:28 pm

I found the recipe for these Chocolate Chai Snickerdoodles on Anne’s Food. To be fair, they’re not her recipe, but her presentation of them made me want to try. I’ve been reading her blog for a long time. She’s Swedish, and she posts a great mix of Swedish and other dishes with easy to follow recipes and great reviews.

I love that she posts so often too. Almost every day, I can stop by and find a new recipe to try out. I definitely recommend stopping by to check it out, and while you’re at it, try these cookies!

You start out with a combination of classic chai spices including cardamom, cinnamon, allspice, ginger, and pepper. I had to make a few changes: I didn’t have white pepper or allspice, so I subbed black pepper and cloves. They still turned out delicious!

December 8, 2006

Easy Korean Food

Filed under: Pasta, Vegetarian Main Dishes — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 3:30 am

*Foodgasm.*

I know… beautiful isn’t it? Spicy, warm, flavourful… and I made it all by myself.

OK… that’s a lie. I cheated a *little* bit. What the heck do you want from me? I can barely PRONOUNCE kimchi chigae, much less make it.

In Toronto, Korean restaurants are a lot more plentiful than in New York, but they’re still not everywhere, and besides: the only meal I would NEVER make for myself is sushi, and that’s not for lack of skill, but for lack of Japanese mob connections so I can get the best, freshest fish out there and not die of food poisoning.

My mother, aka, my food guru (see “about me” for details) won’t attempt most things outside of the Western world. She says she trusts those who do it right to make Indian curries, pad Thai, and Chinese stir fry. While I love restaurants as much as the next person, I would much rather spend my money on shoes (and the occasional nice meal) than on Korean takeout when the mood strikes, which it does surprisingly often.

In high school, one of my very best friends was Korean, direct from Seoul, and the two of us spent many an afternoon Senior spring at a Korean restaurant in the next town over. Ever since we split up for university, and especially now that the weather has been getting colder, I found myself missing my kimchi chigae.

I hopped around a few Korean restaurants for awhile, but this was hard on my pocket, plus none of the soups I tried were exactly what I was looking for: there is a lot of variation on this dish, and once I’d had the one from BK Grill, I didn’t want anything else.

Then, as I was perusing my old entries, I found this, back from when this was just an ickle baby blog: Bon Appegeek. Well, even I said it. I was going to try to make Korean food.

There’s a small emporium below my house. It’s one of the strangest stores I’ve ever seen: situated next to a Korean BBQ and Karaoke, they have dry cleaning, video rental, snack food for sale, and they sell all sorts of Asian specialty foods in the back. I’ve only ever been in once before for some gum, but on my way home from school, I sauntered in and walked right up to the display with Korean foods.

The first thing I saw was kimchi: I grabbed two different jars, one of cabbage and one of radish. Then I took some black beans in soy sauce and sesame oil, a typical banchan. This was when the man behind the counter started staring at the little white girl.

“Can I help you?”

“No… I’m good.”

“OK… you tell me.”

That was when I found it: soup mix. And not just any soup mix: kimchi chigae soup mix. I can’t read Korean, but the instructions were on the back in both French and English, so I grabbed a packet and approached the till with my choices.

“You know how to make this?” the Korean man held up my soup.

“I’ll be fine,” I answered, smiling.

“You need tofu…”

“I have it already.”

He stared some more. “You know what this is?”

“Kimchi chigae.”

His eyes darted to his wife, who was standing in another part of the store. “Even some Koreans, they can’t make this.”

“I’ll be OK.”

He packed up the rest of my items in silence, took my money, and as he handed me my change, he said, “If you want me to get anything in here, anything you like, you tell me.”

I smiled. I had won over the Korean food emporium guy. But I took it one step further.

“Kamsahamnida (thank you).”

I turned and walked out without another word, hoping that what I had actually said was, in fact, thank you, and not one of the many curse words I had learned in high school.

When I got home, I made my soup the way I like it: I cooked soba noodles in some salted water, then fried them in sesame oil with a cubed block of silken tofu with all the water squeezed out. I followed the instructions on the packet, adding my noodles and tofu, half a jar of kimchi as well, and a little bit of soy sauce. My soup mix was amazing, and I was pleased to see that there were, in fact, three packets of soup mix. Looks like I’m having kimchi chigae for awhile now.

Hey… if I can do this, maybe I should tackle those Japanese mob connections…

December 7, 2006

Ginger Cookies

Filed under: Cookies — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 9:39 am

“Is this gingerbread?”

“No.”

“It looks like gingerbread…”

“It’s not. It’s a cookie.”

“Are you sure?”

Yes… I’m sure, Michael. I baked them. They’re not gingerbread. They’re Bon Appetit’s Sugar-Topped Molasses Spice Cookies, and they’re delicious.

They were really easy to make: the dough took about five minutes, and then it needed to chill for “at least an hour and up to four days.” I went with two days… mostly because my baking kick died after an hour and didn’t come back until two days later.

As usual, I gifted my friends with my treats. My friend Rachael trekked the two blocks to procure some for her and her roommate, Mel, which is a lot, if you know Rachael. (I think some of it had to do with the fact that Rachael had just finished the last of the Chips Ahoy. I sure hope these were better.)

They stayed soft in the cookie jar for five days, long enough for most of them to be gone, and even now, they’re just developing a pleasant crispy texture, kind of like a ginger snap.

Mel, Rachael, and my roommate Mike all gave rave reviews, and even I, who do not usually have a sweet tooth and tend to venture more towards cheese and pickles as a snack, haven’t been able to help myself from snacking on one or two.

The secret? You wanna know? REALLY?

Black pepper.

Arthur Avenue Market

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — emiglia @ 12:34 am

Drool-worthy, ain’t it?

This is the counter of Mike’s Deli, one of several Italian food counters at the now-infamous covered market at Arthur Avenue, in the Bronx.

Only a few years ago, this was not a neighborhood you wanted to enter if you didn’t live there, and even now, it’s pretty hard to get to, even from the nearest subway station. But the trek is totally worth it.

Not only is this area of the Bronx still populated by real Italians, but they are willing to share all that is good and holy in the realm of Italian food… which brings me to the market, and Mike’s.

Mike’s is famous in the Belmont community, and even outside of it for providing amazing quality Italian meats, cheeses, and cold antipasti. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been sent up to Mike’s with an order so long that I had to bring the toughest male friend I have to help me haul it back downtown.

But, if it’s possible, even better than the food is the atmosphere. I know, it doesn’t seem possible. It’s just a deli, right? But it’s one of my favorite places on Earth, and I’m not the only one to say it. I think that most of the credit for this goes to the proprietor, Michele Greco. Famous in the community, Michele always remembers his customers, and is always proffering a slice of cheese or meat taken off what he’s slicing while you peruse.

I have to say, sometimes my absolute favourite snack is a little slice of Parmigiano-Reggiano or some prosciutto di Parma. And I’m not above a half-hour voyage to get it.

December 6, 2006

Mennonite Festival

Filed under: Pie, Uncategorized — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 12:54 am

Living in cities is amazing. Every day, there is the opportunity to see something new. Not everyone takes advantage of these opportunities; I know for a long time I didn’t, but I decided recently that I probably won’t be in Toronto for much longer after I graduate, so for the few years when I can call this wonderful city my home, I should take advantage of it.

I suppose it helps that I have a friend who is constantly up for doing new, fun, sometimes strange things. He is the same friend who came with me to Lancaster County, PA a few weeks ago, so when I saw that there was a Mennonite Christmas Festival at the Harbourfront Centre here in Toronto, I knew that he would be up for it. What I didn’t expect was that he would be up for tasting mincemeat pie when I jokingly suggested it.

I was a chicken and went for hot apple cider, which was delicious. As anyone who knows me is well aware, and as my friend pointed out, I am a sucker for any cider: hot or cold, soft or hard. I have to say that even though my friend assured me that this particular mincemeat pie was of the vegetarian variety, I was glad I stuck with my cider.

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