Tomato Kumato

September 25, 2007

Homecoming Fatteh

Filed under: Chicken — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 12:08 pm

“For my first night back, we’re having chicken fatteh–a layered dish of toasted bread, chicken, onion, spices, and pine nuts covered with a velvety yogurt sauce. It’s so lush and lovely, I eat recklessly, like an amnesiac with no awareness of anything but the table, the sweet sadness of return, an the moon hanging like a sigh just beyond the long dark fields.”

Read. This. Book. If not for the recipes, then for the style. Diana Abu-Jaber is a lovely writer, and she knows exactly how to evoke the sentiment in the reader. When I read this sentence, I think of my own homecoming foods, remembering my days at boarding school when I couldn’t cook for myself. I would call my mother weeks before coming home, asking her what they were having for dinner, pressing the phone hard to my ear as though listening hard enough would bring me back to roast beef and yorkshire pudding, to spaghetti and meatballs, to rotisserie chicken and oven-roasted potatoes. When I finally arrived home, she would cook as I commanded: always lasagna, beef in tarragon mustard sauce, and swordfish with watermelon salad. I was a nomad, faded from my home. My sister barely remembered when I lived there. When I was gone, I was a ghost, a few books and an empty bed to suggest that I used to belong. Eating was coming home, and as I filled my belly with warm food, I stopped fading and became real again.

For Diana, the food that does this is this fatteh, and I can see how. Even not having grown up with it, there is something comforting about the warmly spiced, steamed chicken, the creamy yogurt sauce, the sweet bite of onion. I served the dish with roasted vegetables and tried to imagine my own homecoming, which now seems so far away…

September 24, 2007

Craving Chicken Salad

Filed under: Chicken, Salad — Tags: , , , , — emiglia @ 9:18 am

What is it about cravings? They show up out of nowhere, and are always for the strangest things. I read an article about cravings several years ago, about what they mean. If you’re craving pretzels (or other salty snacks), it means you’re dehydrated. If you’re craving steak, you’re lacking in iron. Peanut butter is a vitamin B deficiency. It makes sense… your body knows what it needs, and it tells you. So… what about craving chicken salad?

I was sitting in my second period (out of five) class the other day, and out of nowhere, I got this crazy craving for chicken salad. The weirdest part was that it was for a chicken salad I had never even tasted before. I wanted cold chicken, boiled potatoes, pickles, scallions, all mixed together in a bowl with mustard and yogurt combined for a dressing. Now that’s a strange craving if I’ve ever had one.

I couldn’t get the chicken salad out of my mind for the whole day, and the second I got out of school, I bolted home to make it. It was just as good as I was expecting it to be.

September 21, 2007

A Tale of Two Chilis

Filed under: Beef, Carnivorous Main Dishes, Chicken — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 3:34 pm

I love chili. I really, really do. I like soup OK, and I love stew, but I’m too lazy to make it. No, when it comes to warm the spirit big old pots of something hot and delicious, it has to be chili. And it has to be spicy.

This week I made two pots of chili… I know… kind of overkill. But in my defense, there’s hardly any left at all!

The first one was a Beef and Bean Chili from epicurious, which I had to, as usual, pick apart and put together to my own liking. I swapped broth for beer (because why have broth when you can have beer?), swapped kidney beans for white beans (because… everyone together now… they don’t have them in France), and upped the heat factor. A lot. Like, 5 jalapeño peppers, my hands were burning for two days after, and plus I poked myself in the eye, but I don’t even care because this chili was so good, hot.

Hmm… my chili doesn’t appear to be very photogenic. I know what to do!

Add cilantro, creme fraiche, shredded cheese, and spring onions! Cuts the heat.
My friend and I ate most of this for dinner the night we made it, and then I finished off the rest the next day for lunch. No more! But then after she had gone, I was starting to feel lonely, and my tummy was grumbling for more chili. I wanted something completely different, so I went through my recipe list and found this: Chicken and Sweet Potato Chili.

The only thing I changed was to use orange sweet potatoes instead of white, and to go for the jalapeño option over the chipotle, so I won’t repost the recipe here. But oh, my, God. It was incredible. Not that I got to keep it for myself or anything. I had made the huge pot of chili, leaving the beans out to add when I got back from a wine and cheese party at my school so they wouldn’t get all mushy. But at the party, I met up with a friend, who I invited back to help me finish my cupcakes and muffins, and as we were sitting around, enjoying our beer, she invited a friend who was having a tough time finding an apartment. He said he would be there soon, but that he had to get some food, so of course I offered to feed him. Leftover lasagna, ratatouille, cheese, tomato sauce… my fridge is a regular cornucopia of good things to eat… not to mention the aforementioned baked goods. He was just about to settle for the lasagna, when he noticed the huge pot on the stove.

“What’s that?”

“Oh… just some chili.”

I later learned that this boy was from the South.

“Chili?!?”

“Yeah… it’s not done yet.”

“How long ’til it’s done?”

Do I lie? Keep it all for myself? *Sigh* No. I cook to give.

“Ten minutes.”

And sure enough, ten minutes later, the three of us were burning our mouths on bowls of this hot, sweet, tasty chili. No pictures, I’m afraid, but I do have a new favorite. I still have one container left in the fridge, and it seems I’ve made a new friend…

Here’s a recipe for the first chili…

Heat 1 tbsp oil in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add 1 medium white onion, chopped; sauté until brown, about 6 minutes. Add 5 chopped jalapeños (unless you’re not like me with an asbestos tongue… then two or three should be sufficient) and 2-3 cloves of garlic, minced; sauté 1 minute. Add 10 oz beef; sauté until brown, breaking up with back of fork, about 5 minutes. Add 1 tbsp chili powder, 2 tsp cumin, and 1/2 tsp paprika, then mix in 1 28 oz can whole plum tomatoes with juices, 1 15 oz. can of white beans, and one small bottle of light beer; bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer until chili thickens and flavors blend, stirring occasionally, about 45 minutes. Skim any fat from surface of chili.

September 20, 2007

Blueberry Hill Cupcakes

Filed under: Muffins and Cupcakes — Tags: , — emiglia @ 7:14 am

As promised… the cupcakes. I made two dozen, but after my friends came over last night, I think I have about six left. These are that good.

I got the recipe from epicurious, and even though some of the reviews said that they were more like muffins than cupcakes, I wanted to try the recipe… one that is probably going to be my last berry recipe of the season *sigh* because of the exorbitant prices that people are trying to get me to pay for berries now.

These were worth it though. Dense and full of blueberries that exploded with every bite and turned the inside of each cupcake a pleasing purple, these cupcakes were a lot of fun to make and to eat. (Plus, I made my own measuring cups! Yep! I don’t have any in France, so I measured out 8 ounces of water to find out how much a cup was. I know it’s approximate, I know I can’t bake bread this way, but the cupcakes turned out fine, and I don’t hear any complaints about the peach muffins from yesterday!)

It’s getting tiring to say “because I’m in France” every time I have to explain why I had to change a recipe, but it’s the truth. We have maple syrup in specialty import stores, but no maple sugar, so I used vanilla sugar. I also used more blueberries than were recommended. Here’s my version of the recipe, but you can get epicurious’ version over there. If anyone tries the real version, let me know how it turns out! Now, I believe I have some cupcakes to finish…

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease each cup of your muffin tin. Sift 3 1/4 cups all purpose flour, 1 1/4 cups sugar, 1 tablespoon baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon coarse kosher salt, and 1/4 teaspoon baking soda into large bowl. Whisk 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) melted, unsalted butter and 1/4 cup canola oil in medium bowl. Add 2 eggs; whisk to blend. Whisk in 1 cup of fromage frais, 1 cup milk, 1 tsp vanilla extract, and 1 tsp grated lemon peel. Add this mixture to dry ingredients; whisk just to blend. Stir in 1 1/2 cups frozen blueberries. Divide batter among muffin cups. Bake cupcakes about 23 minutes.

Combine 2 1/4 cups powdered sugar, 10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) room temperature unsalted butter, 1/2 cup vanilla sugar, 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel, and 1/2 teaspoon coarse kosher salt in a medium bowl. Add milk by the teaspoon and beat until well blended and fluffy. Spread frosting over top of cupcakes.

Garnish cupcakes with chilled berries.

Before frosting…

I love cupcakes.

September 19, 2007

Peabody’s Peach Pecan Muffins

Filed under: Muffins and Cupcakes — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 11:30 am

After the success of the Blueberry Hill Cupcakes this weekend (pictures coming soon to a blog near you), I decided this morning that I wanted to bake something else. Something with strawberries in it, to use up the pint in my kitchen. A strawberry cupcake, of sorts.

But as I looked through my list of recipes to try, (10 pages, people… singles spaced. Dear Lord, it’s an illness.) I realized that I had no such cupcake or even a similar muffin on my list! Disgruntled, I sauntered over to Peabody’s place and found a recipe for red, white, and blue muffins. Except that I knew that raspberries and blueberries were getting to be outrageously expensive (in France we don’t have California to keep us in fruit all year.) I growled audibly, muttered something nasty under my breath that had something to do with the Common Market, and kept going. And I found this: yeah, it wasn’t strawberries, but it was a muffin, and it was even on my list of things to try! Check and check. Off I went to the market to pick up the ingredients.

I have a little secret for you, reader: in France, they don’t use brown sugar. Or molasses. Or if they do, it must be only sold at some specialty shop far, far away from where I live. But I was going to make these muffins. So I grabbed a box of cassonade, which is really more like Sugar in the Raw than brown sugar, and marched home. Upon opening the box, I was greeted with that familiar brown-sugary smell, so it couldn’t be all bad. I mixed together the ingredients and noticed the severe peach to batter ratio. I double checked the recipe, but I had done everything right, and I trust Peabody, so I filled my little ramekins (muffin tins are another thing that are hard to find here. I line up aluminum ramekins on a baking sheet. Makes them easier to force out of their little hole when they’re being a little bit bitchy, though.)

20 minutes later, I had this. I think I underdid them a little bit (my ramekins are bigger than standard), but I don’t care if they kind of fall apart on you. They’re moist and chock full of peaches, and they do taste like brown sugar (yay cassonade!) Looks like the blueberry cupcakes have a contender for this evening, when I’ve invited people over to partake in the baking goodness…

September 17, 2007

Berry Bouquet

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — emiglia @ 7:04 am

OK… I know I shouldn’t have fallen victim to a trap like this, but I had to. I know, I know… it would have been so much cheaper to just buy berries by the pint… but it just looked so cute! At the market on Rue Cler, they call this a Berry Bouquet. I bought one and ate it for breakfast with fromage frais (this French yogurt-ish stuff that I’m a little bit obsessed with). I guess it’s a bit of a last vestige of summer…

September 16, 2007

Pastis

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: — emiglia @ 4:31 am

Pastis is a common drink here in France, especially in the South (it originates in Marseilles). It tastes strongly of anise (although not quite as smackyouintheface liquorice-y as Sambuca.) As you can see from the picture, it is typically served with water, which when added turns this pale amber liquor a cloudier color. Formerly a drink predominantly for men, it is now commonly drunk as an apéritif (apéro in slang) by the young people in France. (Apparently this practice hasn’t traveled too far north, because when I ordered a tomate in a café here in Paris, the bartender was so surprised that I was ordering his signature drink that he paid for our whole round.)

Which brings me to the pastis cocktails. While pastis was always drunk with water, now that the young people have moved in, they have put their own spin on it. (These cocktails were known before, but are becoming more and more popular now.) There are at least a dozen cocktails made with pastis, but these are the three that I have tried. The first is my favorite: the tomate. This is pastis and grenadine served with water. Not only do I love the sweetness that the grenadine adds, but I also like the fact that the drink turns bright pink.

The second cocktail is the perroquet, or parrot, so named for its bright green color, which it gets from crème de menthe. While this one is very pretty to look at, I am not personally a fan… the mint and anise together just remind me of medicine.

The third cocktail is known as the mauresque, which is pastis with orgeat, which I don’t know how to say in English, but is a liquor made from barley. Because I found the perroquet too medicinal, I was surprised when I actually liked the mauresque. It’s sweet, but not as sweet as the tomate, and it tastes vaguely herbal.

Of course, if you’re not into cocktails, you can always go for pastis the traditional way. My favorite pastis is Ricard, which is delicious served with just a carafe of cool water.

September 15, 2007

SHF #35: Mascarpone Figs

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 8:42 am

This is my first Sugar-High Friday, and I guess I cheated a little bit. You see… I’m not really too into dessert. I’ll pretty much always go for a cheese course over the sweeter stuff. But then I learned that Ivonne was hosting, and that figs were this time’s star. I love figs, and I love Ivonne. So I had to try.
I was considering going for some kind of tart, warm fig in a crispy puff pastry shell… maybe a little bit of goat cheese in the bottom for a creamy surprise. But then I thought about eating it and pictured myself picking around the pastry to get to the fig… and that’s when I knew what I wanted to do.

I combined mascarpone, goat cheese, and fromage frais, a French yogurt-like cheese that gave the cream its consistency. I sliced my figs and heated them in a frying pan while I prepared my two “sauces:” the first was just fig preserves heated with a little bit of water. The second, honey infused with mint and black pepper. The whole thing took about ten minutes to make, and even less to eat. So not a typical dessert, but the melt-in-your-mouth figs were perfect. Bon appétit!

September 14, 2007

Amstel on the Amstel

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — emiglia @ 2:16 am

To continue our tour of the world’s beer, we shall discuss Amstel. On the Amstel. Yes, I said it. I drank Amstel beer sitting only feet away from the Amstel river in Amsterdam. Jealous? You should be. You should also be jealous of the wowholycrap LITER of beer that I drank. Examine the proof as you compare the size of the glass to the size of my friend Katie’s head.

We were even given straws to expedite the process.

No, but seriously, this is a good beer. Very different from it’s cousin Guinness, the stout, Amstel is a lager, or light beer (no… not light like Coors Light, the bane of my American existence). Amstel is light in color, but not in flavor. The Amstel served in Amsterdam, as I assume is true with all exported beers, is different from the one we get in cans in the States, and even from the one served on draught in pubs in France. The best description I can give is sharper. Amstel from Amsterdam really hits you in the face, as much as a beer can (with the exception of high percentage beers like Delirium and Bavaria. 8.6% alcohol. Wow.)

September 13, 2007

Figs

Filed under: Salad — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 4:52 am

This summer, I saw wild fruit growing for the first time ever (city kid here, people. New York, born and raised.) The only fruit I had ever seen growing were the sad excuses for strawberries we grew in our backyard on Long Island every summer, and the apples we saw upstate when we went apple picking in the fall. So imagine my amazement when I was walking through the vineyards in southwestern France, and I came across this.

Do you know what that is, people? A fig. Yep. A real, live fig, growing all by itself. Ivonne has been waxing poetic over the fig recently… must be an Italian thing. I love, love, love figs (sidebar: I’ll definitely be coming up with something for the upcoming SHF… the gears are turning…)

Figs are one of those magical foods that go well with all sorts of flavors. As will soon be apparent from SHF #35, figs make amazing desserts. I’m addicted to fig jam, and will often eat it straight out of the jar, à la Joey in Friends. Figs can be cooked with meat, mixed with nuts and cheese for pasta sauce, dried and eaten as a snack… the list is endless. But when I saw figs in the outdoor produce stands on Rue Cler, right near my house, I remembered the figs from this summer, and I knew that I had to do something simple.

Just some fresh green leaf lettuce, a bit of bleu d’auvergne, some torn prosciutto, and a little bit of homemade Dijon vinaigrette. Oh, and of course the fresh black figs, halved and staring up at me. Parfait.

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