Tomato Kumato

November 29, 2007

Pasta

Filed under: Pasta — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 8:51 am

I’ve been being a student recently, and thus have had very little time to post. But I haven’t forgotten about you, dear reader! Here’s a recipe for a pasta dish I made last week. I just took some merguez sausages out of their casings and cooked them until brown, cooked a diced onion in the fat from the pork, added some tomato paste and some homemade marinara sauce, the pork, and a little touch of crème fraiche. It was a quick and easy dinner for two, and we both loved it, especially with a little extra cheese sprinkled on top (him) and some cayenne pepper (me).

Don’t hate me… I’ll be back tomorrow with the lasagna recipe that *gasp* blew my tried and true family recipe out of the water!

November 25, 2007

London Calling

Filed under: Restaurant Reviews — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 7:26 am

English food has gotten a bad rap. Sure, Nigella Lawson and Jamie Kennedy have started to right this wrong, but whereas people go to Paris to try some of the traditional bistro and brasserie fare and you hit Rome to sit in a trattoria with a dish of pasta or pizza (or at least hit several dozen gelaterias), visitors to London don’t really get excited about its gourmet cuisine.

The fact is, London is a bit like America, in that most of its excellent cuisine came from elsewhere (and I don’t necessarily mean internationally). For example, one of my favorite treats from London is a Cornish pasty, which comes from Cornwall. You can choose your filling (or two, one sweet and one savory, if you’re going for the traditional thing) and you pay very little to have something very delicious. Another amazing London food is curry: English food is sometimes bemoaned as being bland, but be careful ordering your curries hot in London… they mean it.

I was only in London for the weekend, and I was there with a school trip, so I didn’t have a lot of time to sample food. Eventually, I want to go to the Goulder’s Green tube stop, where food writer Calvin Trillin has touted a Chinese food restaurant, but all in good time.

Really, I just ate in two good spots. One was called, very simply, Eat. It was a prepared food store, a lot like Pret à Manger (which is excellent), except that Eat’s focus seemed to be on healthy or natural foods. I bought a hummus wrap for later and this salad for lunch… mostly because it was so colorful.

It had broccoli, edamame, peas, bean sprouts, grated beet, sweet potatoes and goat cheese. It was an amazing combination, and everything was deliciously fresh.

For dinner one night, my English friend took me to a Japanese restaurant called Wagamama. You sit at a communal table and everything is cooked to order… which means a table’s food doesn’t all come at once. It’s a pretty cool concept, although it’s a little jarring when the waitress writes your order on your placemat so that someone can bring it to you. I ordered a chicken curry dish, which was incredible. I usually like to get Japanese beer with Japanese food, but my friend wanted wine, and we actually ended up with a really good bottle of red for not too much (in London prices.)

So I guess my point is… don’t judge London food before you’ve tried it. It’s really quite delicious if you go to the right places and don’t spend your entire time eating pub food. (Although don’t knock fish and chips… I could live off fish and chips with mushy peas.)

November 23, 2007

Spicy Roasted Chicken Thighs

Filed under: Chicken, Uncategorized — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 7:56 pm

I’ve been meaning to post about this chicken recipe for awhile. I got it off Luisa’s site: it’s a recipe for spicy roasted chicken thighs. I accidentally forgot to mix the tomato paste in with the rest of the ingredients (I know… I’m insane), so after I had rubbed the chicken with the mix, I just kind of smushed some tomato paste on there as well. It turned out delicious, but as you can see, the color was a little bit different from Luisa’s.

Luisa, by the way, is starting to become my guru without even knowing it. I pretty much put every recipe on her site onto my list of recipes to try… and every time I try one, I end up loving it. Pretty soon, I’m going to have to hit up that famous lemon chicken. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, you should probably head over there and check out her site for yourself. Sorry for seeming like a stalker, Luisa… I’m going back to the chicken now.

I loved this chicken. I served it with spiced couscous and extra gravy from the pan. The Canadian, however, was a little skeptical. Sure, he said it was good and finished what was on his plate, but it’s the first time in the history of mankind that he didn’t ask for seconds. Oh well… that just meant that I got to have the leftovers with salad the next day… and take a picture, which I forgot to do the day before. Maybe it’s just a girl recipe…

November 22, 2007

Thanksgiving

I know… I know. I’ve been bad. It isn’t even that I haven’t been cooking! I have tons of recipes to share, plus I just got back from England, where I ate at some awesome places. Nope… I just sometimes forget that I’m a student until I suddenly have to be one nonstop for several days. But my paper on Atlas Shrugged has been turned in, so I’m back and ready to tell you about Thanksgiving, yesterday.

Yes… I said yesterday. And yes, I’m well aware that Thanksgiving is actually today. But you see, back to the student thing, my partner in crime, Britney Spears (see Halloween post), was leaving for Madrid on a school trip early this morning, so we decided to have it one day early. I sent out invitations, but because of the strike, we were only able to attract three of the six who RSVPed… and they were all boys. Hmm…

I woke up at 9:00 yesterday to start work. The Canadian slept and shouted what he thought were helpful comments from the living room. He also watched in awe as Britney rolled out a pie crust. “I’ve never been behind the scenes before…”

The menu was as follows…

Roast Turkey Legs
Stuffing
Pumpkin Tarte Tatin
Whole Cranberry Sauce with Orange
Green beans with scallions
Sweet Potato Hash
Mashed Potatoes
Gratin Dauphinoise
Buttermilk Corn Bread
Tarte Tatin
Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Tender Pie Crust

Get ready… this is going to be a long post.

Ok, first of all, the turkey. I couldn’t roast a whole turkey in my dinky little oven, and even though some of the local shops were offering to sell whole roast turkeys, I wanted to do everything myself (not even a frozen pie crust around here). I went with turkey thighs, and I bought four of them. In the end, this was too much: as the Canadian said and Emese agreed, no one really cares about the turkey. It has to be there, in case you want to take a little slice and place it decoratively on your plate, but really, it doesn’t matter.

Well, good. Because I followed my mother’s advice and cooked them for an hour, (rubbed them first with some butter, sage, salt and pepper) but they were still pink inside, so I threw them back in after I had reheated everything else, and the turkey made an appearance on the table during second helpings of everything else. As Emese said, the potatoes are what are important.

Or, if you’re the Canadian, the stuffing. And no, stuffing does not come out of a box here. I called my mother and asked for a recipe, but she infuriatingly gave her “until it’s wet enough… enough to cover the bottom of the pan” directions, so I turned to Ree. To be fair, Mommy, her recipe was pretty much the same as yours… it was just easier to follow. And the stuffing was really, really good. I was going to only make one pan when there were going to be nine of us, but the Canadian thought that was ludicrous, so I made two. We finished one, but there were only six of us, so I suppose he was right.

I tried another new thing, the Pumpkin Tarte Tatin from the Wednesday Chef. I didn’t invert it, because I’m lazy, but it was delicious. I told Britney that I was going to attempt it, but that I wasn’t sure it would work out. She said, “Pumpkin and cheese? How can you go wrong?” Then I told her there was pastry and cream involved. Nuff said.
Cranberry sauce used to be the one thing on the table I sort of ignored. (Actually, make that one of two things. And I still ignore creamed pearl onions, so they didn’t make it onto my table. Sorry, Mommy). But I grew to love it, and now I can’t live without the tangy sweetness. I got my recipe from Finding La Dolce Vita, and it was perfect. As I watched the cranberries floating in the orange juice, I was a little bit skeptical, but then all of a sudden, without warning, it was cranberry sauce. I couldn’t tell you how it happened, but it was gorgeous on the table, and it’s almost gone! (I saved a little to have with my leftovers… Shh…)

Britney told me I didn’t need to have vegetables at Thanksgiving, but I ignored her. Yes, I didn’t make roasted brussels sprouts with pancetta and pistachios… possibly my favorite veggie on the Thanksgiving table, because I know that people are prejudiced against them and will never love them the way I do (*cough*theCanadian*cough*), but my Mommy promised to make them for me at Christmas, even though they’re usually a Thanksgiving fare, so I moved on and went with green beans. Guess what? They’re almost gone. For this, I can only thank Mommy… I used her recipe. You slow cook finely sliced shallots in some olive oil and butter, blanch the green beans (I boil water in my electric kettle, pour it over the beans, and dump it out almost immediately, right after they turn green. Then run them under ice water. You want them to still have some snap.), and then dump them into the pan with the shallots until ready to serve. Just turn the heat up, add a little more oil if you need it, and toss until heated through. So easy… and everyone ate their greens. My god, I am my mother.

We needed sweet potatoes, but I was running out of space in my oven. I made everything ahead of time, but it was all going to have to be reheated, and I’ve never much liked that marshmallow yam thing anyway, so I decided to try an epicurious recipe for Sweet Potato Hash. Because I was making it last minute, it turned into more of a Sweet Potato Mash (haha… rhyming. I’m so clever.), but it was delicious anyway. I also was having a slight problem with my brown sugar… I paid an exorbitant amount for it at the American store, only to learn that it was stale and hard as a rock. I sprinkled it with water and microwaved it, so some of it melted, leaving massive craters, and I was able to make small brown sugar pebbles when I attacked it with a fork. I used the smaller pebbles for pumpkin pie (which turned out creamy and delicious, than you), so I was left with larger pebbles for my potatoes. Thus, I had some trouble getting it to caramelize the potatoes and was happy enough to get it to melt. They were delicious and creamy and there’s very little left, but I’m thinking about saving them and eating them cold tonight.

Kudos to those who are still here. Mashed potatoes are mashed potatoes. I made a huge pot and threw some crème fraiche, heavy cream, butter and milk. They were a little wanting for salt, but there’s not much left, so I guess people were happy with them.

Gratin Dauphinoise is always the most popular dish for Thanksgiving at home. It’s my recipe, and I won’t give it to my mom, because I don’t want her making them without me. I usually make them at Thanksgiving and Christmas, and my aunt refuses to come to our house unless I promise they’ll be on the table. You slice potatoes reeeaaaalllly thin, put a layer in a greased baking pan, top with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and then a layer of grated gruyère cheese. You keep going with these layers, but only peppering the potatoes, no salt or nutmeg, until the last layer. Before putting the last bit of spice and cheese, you mix a cup of cream and a cup of milk and scald it, temper one egg and add it, and pour the mixture all over the gratin. Then add the spice (salt, pepper and nutmeg this time) and a layer of cheese. It’s amazing. I’m currently eating it for breakfast.

Emese made the cornbread from a recipe we got off epicurious. I don’t recommend it, so I won’t post it. It was fine and all, but not nearly moist enough. Emese and I ate quite a bit of it when we were in the picking stages after thirds or fourths, when you don’t want to refill your plate again. I suppose it helped that we were the two who were eating on the floor, right next to the table.

The tarte tatin was the same one I’ve posted about before. Same deliciousness. I won’t go on, as my fingers are starting to hurt and my gratin is getting cold. The pumpkin pie was delicious. It’s almost gone, and everyone was complaining that they didn’t have room for pie. That’s ridiculous. Who doesn’t have room for pie. Now if you’ll excuse me, there are some potatoes calling me. Happy Thanksgiving!

The Canadian just woke up from his nap and told me he could smell pie.

Me: A whole pie, or a slice of pie on a plate?

The Canadian: A whole pie.

He just at the rest of the pie in bed. I have photo evidence.

Place baking sheet in oven and preheat to 450°F. Whisk 2/3 cup golden brown sugar, 1/2 cup sugar, 2 tablespoons flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 teaspoon quatre épices, and 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg in large bowl to blend. Whisk in 1 1/2 cups canned pumpkin and 4 eggs, then 1 cup of heavy cream. Pour mixture into crust. (I used a homemade butter crust.)
Place pie on preheated baking sheet in oven. Bake 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 325°F and bake until sides puff and center is just set, about 40 minutes. Cool. Serve at room temperature.

November 12, 2007

Rice Pudding

Filed under: Rice — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 6:36 am

Sometimes, you just need something hot and delicious.

I made myself rice pudding on one of those days recently, and of course, when I told my friend, she laughed at me. Aren’t those the days when you just grab the jar of Nutella and go to town on it with a spoon?

I suppose… maybe. Anyone who knows me well knows I’m not a huge fan of chocolate. Besides… I love idly stirring as something as wonderful as rice pudding comes together (which anyone who knows how to make risotto can make: it’s another one of those “add liquid and stir ’til it looks right recipes.) Just melt 2 parts butter to 1 part sugar in a saucepan. Add 4 parts arborio rice, and toast in the butter. And then, it’s stirring time: add warm milk flavored with vanilla by the ladleful until it’s is creamy and delicious, with toothsome grains and a thick, white pudding. Stir a little more butter in, and maybe some cinnamon, and that’s it: you have your snack.

Now I’m not saying there aren’t days for the Nutella pot, but there are also definitely days for hot, delicious (wow… almost went Giada there and said decadent… now you know how good this stuff is) rice pudding.

November 9, 2007

Ratatouille

Filed under: Vegetarian Main Dishes — Tags: , , , , — emiglia @ 8:33 pm

It’s a really good thing I got interested in cooking, or else I would have spent all of last July eating stuck-together spaghetti with a bit of jarred sauce.

Let me explain.

As those who have been following this blog for a reasonable amount of time may know, I spent this past July helping an old French tutor jump-start a language program in Southwestern France. She and her brother bought a house in the tiny town of Paziols, an hour away from Perpignan. She, her nephew Alex, Alex’s sometimes-present father Wolf, four of Anne-Marie’s brightest early-teenage students and I went down to the old vineyard house this summer for the month to experiment, to see what could be done in the area and to make plans for next year, when she will run two programs, one in July, one in August, with the help of Alex, me, and some of the kids who were campers last year.

Tangent. Back to the ratatouille. You see, when we arrived all bedraggled (this was right after my backpacking trip through Western Europe), and drove the hour out to the house, there really wasn’t anything to eat. Alex made a pot of pasta, but didn’t use enough water and overcooked it (can’t blame him… he’s French. His mother has been cooking for him for his entire life). That and some cheese was our dinner, and I knew right away that things were going to have to change. I need my vegetables.

Later on, I spoke with Anne-Marie, cautiously bringing up the idea of teaching the kids how to make some typical French dishes while we were there. She loved the idea and asked for suggestions, and the first thing that my vitamin deprived body thought of was ratatouille. She and I set out for the tiny épicerie, and she picked out some of the best summer vegetables. We got home, she pulled out an apron, and handed it to me.

What?

Apparently, this Frenchwoman considered herself a New Yorker. She made a mean quiche Lorraine, but I was going to be making this ratatouille… if I could figure it out. I started slicing the vegetables semi-confidently, wondering how in the world I was going to pull this off. OK. Think. Think like Alton Brown: food is science.

Onions in first, sweat them a bit, bring out the natural sweetness. A little garlic… hell, who am I kidding? A lot of garlic. I need all the help I can get. Then the eggplant… that takes longer than zucchini… right? Oh well… it’s seared now on both sides and nice and brown, so in goes the zucchini. That’s brown… now some tomatoes. How many? Who knows. I add two, then three, mush them down and try to create some semblance of a sauce. I cheat and reach for the tomato paste because it doesn’t look like enough, and then I toss in a few more tomatoes, just to be safe. Also because I ate half of the first ones while I was slicing them… they were summer tomatoes, and I couldn’t help it. Herbes de provence, salt and pepper. And then Alex is over my shoulder.

“Tu sais cuisiner?” You know how to cook?

“Un peu.” A little. Sometimes I set off the fire alarm, and I’ve undercooked chicken and had to throw it back under the broiler. I keep that tidbit to myself.

“Ca sent bon.” Smells good. It does, like onions and garlic. I wish I could taste it, but the kitchen is too central to do it without anyone catching me, so I feign confidence, prod a piece of zucchini with a fork, and declare it done.

Apparently, the ratatouille went over well: I decided what to cook for the rest of the summer. Anne-Marie taught all the kids to make mayonnaise and salad dressing from scratch, but all summer, my greatest pride was still in that first dinner. I still don’t use a recipe for ratatouille… every time I make it in my tiny Paris kitchen, I remember my experiment in the house in Paziols, and I feel like a real cook… before I burn cupcakes while I’m giving myself a manicure again.

November 4, 2007

Fried Eggs

Filed under: Breakfast, Eggs, potatoes — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 4:22 pm

What is it about fried eggs? They’re like a completely different animal from scrambled eggs or omelettes. There’s something about the barely cooked yolk breaking all over whatever else is on your plate that’s so satisfying.

When I was younger, my father used to mesmerize me by pretending the yolks of his fried eggs were eyes, and he would poke them and scream as I watched in disgusted admiration, standing by my old scrambled eggs, just this side of dry.

I’ve seen the error of my ways: even my scrambled eggs are barely cooked now. But my favorite? Fried, with some sort of starch to soak up the yolk. For my father, it was a fork-split English muffin, and I’ll go the Thomas’ route every once in awhile, but the best option is my mother’s home fries. She used to fry them up on random winter mornings before school: one onion for every potato, and one potato for every person. Fried the onions soft in olive oil and butter, adding the starchy potatoes, paprika for color, and salt and pepper. She’d wait until they stuck to the bottom with all the starch and sugar before flipping them, so every potato developed a dark, sweet crust. I made myself some of these potatoes, and then just as they finished, I moved them aside and fried my egg right alongside. When the yolk broke as I plated, I didn’t even mind.

November 3, 2007

The Best Chili Ever

Filed under: Beans and Legumes, Beef, Carnivorous Main Dishes — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 12:57 pm

I’m not terribly impressed with the picture… but there was no way I couldn’t blog about this. This is the chili to end all chilis. I don’t know if I’ll ever need to make another chili again. Well… scratch that. I know I want to make another chili, but I don’t think the Canadian would stand for it. When I made this for him last week, he turned to me and said: “I think this is the best chili I’ve ever had.” He claimed he wasn’t even hungry before I brought it out, but he ended up having two servings that night and finishing the leftovers the following afternoon. Are you ready for it yet?

As usual, the original recipe for Beef and Dark Beer Chili, which I found on epicurious, needed some tweaking. Funnily enough, Jen over at Life’s Too Short to Eat Fat Free Cheese had tried the recipe just a day before I had intended to. I was a little worried, because she didn’t seem impressed, but I went along with my plan, changing the following aspects of the recipe:

1. I used double the jalapeño, but no chipotle chili.

2. I doubled the tomatoes asked for in the recipe, and I used whole canned tomatoes with juice.

3. I added a few tablespoons of tomato paste.

4. I added a lot more beer (Guinness)… about double.

5. Instead of sautéing the veggies in olive oil, I just drained most of the beef fat and fried them in that.

The end result was a lot saucier than the recipe called for, and it was quite spicy, but I served it with sour cream and grated cheese. My policy for chili making is to taste as I go… I cooked this chili for almost two hours, and I checked it every time I stirred, adding more spice and liquid as I saw fit. In the end, it paid off, and the Canadian loved it.

November 1, 2007

Halloween Party: Pasta, Cupcakes and… Britney Spears?

Filed under: Muffins and Cupcakes, Pasta — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 11:00 am

I know that most people celebrate Halloween with candy… so how in the world did I end up spending my holiday with pasta, cupcakes and Britney Spears? I suppose I should begin at the beginning.

After a “tiring” shopping trip (tiring to the Canadian… I like wandering down the Champs Elysées), we headed back home. I went straight to the kitchen, where I had planned to bake some Belgian Brownies (love this recipe!) and some Chocolate Orange Muffins with Orange Cream Cheese Frosting, from slashfood. I had just started melting the chocolate over the double boiler when the Canadian called out, “You hungry?”

Of course, this doesn’t mean, “are you hungry,” but rather, “I’m hungry. Please feed me.” Because we were drinking that night (and also a little bit because I was already devoting all of my energy to melting chocolate), I suggested pasta. Directly after this, I remembered that a) we had finished all of the jarred pesto, b) I hadn’t replaced the parmesan cheese and c) the vat of tomato sauce I froze was frozen into the fridge and would need to be removed on a rainy day when I had a hammer and chisel. I did, however, have some tomato paste, tomatoes, and a recipe for Quick Tomato-Cream Sauce that was also on my list of things to try from Under the Tuscan Sun. Bingo.

This was one of the best tomato sauces I’ve ever tried, and it was really easy. My only qualm, as you can probably tell from the pictures, is that I made too much pasta and not enough sauce.

Once we ate the pasta, I still had cupcakes to bake. I made the Belgian Brownies no problem: this is one of the easiest recipes in the world and one of my favorites… and I don’t even like chocolate! But I had also wanted to make the Chocolate Orange Cupcakes… seeing as it was Halloween. One problem: no cream cheese. I decided to sub mascarpone, but in the end, the frosting was looking a little funny. I put it in the fridge, hoping that chilling it would help, and continued getting ready for our Halloween party. When my friends got there, I hadn’t had time to frost them, so I left them in the kitchen and just brought out the Belgian Brownies. However, they disappeared rather fast, and my friend Emese found and delivered the Orange-Chocolate Cupcake stash. And you know what? They were good even without the frosting. The mix of chocolate and orange is delicious, as always, and the crumb was dense. They were sweet without being cloying, and basically, just good. Sure, it looked very pretty on the slashfood site, but sometimes you just can’t make everything look pretty.

(The flatter ones are Belgian Brownies, the kind of bulbous ones are the cupcakes.)

Oh… and Britney? That was Emese:

Quick-Tomato Cream Sauce from Under the Tuscan Sun

Cook 4 or 5 slices of pancetta, drain on paper towels, then crumble and set aside. Chop 2 medium onions and 2 or 3 cloves of garlic and sauté in the pork fat for 5 minutes. Chop and add 1 large red pepper and 4 or 5 whole tomatoes from a can. Season with salt and pepper and cook 5 minutes more. Stir in 1/2 cup of creme fraîche and another 3/4 cup of canned tomatoes with juice. Add a spoonful or so of the pasta water to the sauce. Stir the pancetta into the sauce at the last minute to retain crispness. Cook and drain enough pasta for 4. Mix the pasta with half the sauce; serve the rest of the sauce over the pasta.

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