Tomato Kumato

March 26, 2010

Kale Chips

Filed under: Appetizers, Vegetarian Main Dishes — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 3:32 pm

Like most people, I think, I don’t cook just for me.

Don’t get me wrong–I love being in the kitchen. Case-in-point: my mother has been off gallavanting with my little sister in Virginia for the past week, and instead of scavenging in the fridge for meals of leftovers she so kindly left us, I’ve been wandering through the Food Emporium after work and dusting off that list of recipes I’ve been meaning to try. I love the feeling of laying out all my ingredients on her ample counter space. I’ve missed slicing through an onion–and using my mother’s fancy Japanese knives doesn’t hurt.

But the main thing I’ve been doing since she left hasn’t just been trying recipes that I want to try, but recipes that my father, who’s on a health-food kick, can enjoy: Straciatella soup, roasted broccoli, shirataki noodles with mushrooms…

“She made me pasta! La bambina!” My father exclaimed last night after discovering that he could have the proverbial cake and eat it too when I served him a plate of shirataki noodles, made entirely from tofu. So even if my mind was wandering, thinking about patatas bravas or quickbread recipes I wanted to try… I have to say that my three days of health food dinners were worth it.

Especially because I also discovered something that I love–kale chips. I don’t know how to say kale in French, and I’ve never bought it there, but it’s so easily available here that I bought a bunch on a whim and decided to try these. Those of you who follow me on Twitter may have noticed how much I love them–I ate nearly a pound of kale in crunchy form (that’s two batches of kale chips all by myself), chomping my way through them like a dinosaur. Even my culinarily cautious sister tried one.

“It’s pleasant,” she said, chewing thoughtfully, before sprinkling a few on top of her pasta. I’m cool with that, though I prefer to eat them by the handful, which my friend, the Almost-British One, so bluntly told me will turn me magnetic.

I don’t care–I’m back in the kitchen again.

Kale Chips
1 bunch kale, washed, leaves ripped into bite-sized pieces
olive-oil spray
salt

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Dry the kale well and lay it out on a cooling rack positioned on top of a baking sheet. Spray with olive oil spray and sprinkle with salt. Roast for 15 minutes, until crispy and slightly browned at the edges. Chomp like a dinosaur.


March 16, 2010

Chana Masala Chutney and Dal

Filed under: Beans and Legumes — Tags: , , , , — emiglia @ 10:35 pm

“The grass is always greener on the other side.”

There’s a reason that clichés are cliché: thoughts so true have to be expressed, often too often, until suddenly the metaphor or simile that at its inception seemed so clever and perfect is mundane, something that no one even thinks about anymore, just says with the same banality that they pronounce their own name. Think about it: how often do you actually think about your own name? How often do you actually analyze a clichéd metaphor?

This one is especially true for me right now, as I consider how much I wanted to live in New York when I couldn’t–evenings spent watching old episodes of Sex and the City at Andover, not because I particularly cared what antics Samantha and Miranda were up to, but because I wanted to catch a glimpse of that place I had abandoned when choosing Massachusetts. I craved it still, when I was denied admission to Columbia and ended up in Toronto: I spent all of my time wishing and pining over New York City.

Well, I’m finally back, and the grass is always greener on the other side: I miss Paris. But not only Paris–I miss Toronto and Andover and Westhampton and even San Francisco, though I haven’t set foot in the city in years. I miss everything I don’t have, and yet as soon as I’m back in a place, I don’t take full advantage.

Well, no more. The one thing I craved when I was back in Paris was the variety of international foods that had always been available to me in New York City, and now that I work in Murray Hill, I’m within spitting distance of curry and Korean food that would drive any deprived American living in Paris batty. Instead of stalking straight up Park Avenue, walking the three-odd miles home, waiting for that severe moment of crossing 72nd street and realizing you’re no longer in Midtown and you’ve entered into that bizarro world that is the Upper East Side, I walked east, to Lexington, to where Kalustyan’s has been drawing East Asian food fanatics for years.

I gathered a few spice packs and some dal, and I headed home. As I’ve said before, in the past, I haven’t been allowed to cook much in my mother’s house, but when it comes to certain international cuisines, I’ve been able to edge my way in, offering to prepare one or two dishes to back up what she’s prepared. As my mom had put tandoori chicken on the menu, I volunteered dals and a cabbage salad so that I could have Indian food even though I’ve given up meat for lent.

Being back in the kitchen was better than I remembered–I loved putting together a few dishes for dinner, especially now that it’s a special occasion thing and not something I do every day. There was nothing blasé about chopping onions or toasting spices or watching everything come together…

So maybe it’s not Paris or San Francisco or Montreal or any of the other places I’d love to be. It’s important to remember, every once in awhile, that where you are is pretty good and to appreciate it for what it is. I am, after all, living in Manhattan.

Chana Masala “Chutney” (adapted from The Spiced Life)

1 medium sweet onion, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp. neutral vegetable oil
1 Tbsp. tamarind paste
Salt to taste
1 clove garlic, minced
1 jalapeño pepper, minced
2 t minced ginger
1 T. quatre épices (French blend of black pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves)
1 t. cumin
1 t. coriander
1 t. cayenne pepper
1 can tomato paste
1 15 oz can of whole peeled tomatoes
water as needed
1 lb. bag of chana masala

Heat a large pot over low heat and add the onions, oil and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about an hour or until caramelized.

Increase the heat to medium, and stir in the tamarind paste, garlic, pepper, ginger and spices. Cook until fragrant, 1-2 minutes. Add the tomato paste and stir to combine. Add the canned tomatoes, chana and a bit of water. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally and adding water as needed, until chana is cooked and sauce is thick, about an hour.


Plain Dal

1 onion, minced
1 tsp. neutral oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1 jalapeño, minced
2 Tbsp. dal masala blend from Kalustyan’s or other dal spice mix
1 lb. bag mixed lentils
water to cover
salt to taste

Heat a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and oil and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, jalapeño and spices and cook until fragrant, about one minute.

Add the lentils and water and cover with a lid. Cook, stirring occasionally, until lentils are tender, about 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt.


Cabbage Salad (inspired by Smitten Kitchen

1/2 head green cabbage, shredded
1/2 small jalapeño chile, grated
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tsp. olive oil (not extra virgin)
1 tsp. cumin seeds
1/2 tsp. salt

Shred the cabbage and grate the chile into a serving bowl. Allow to sit for a few minutes.

Meanwhile, in a saucepan, heat the olive oil and add the cumin seeds to toast. Add the lemon juice and salt to the oil.

Press any liquids accumulated in the bowl of cabbage and discard. Toss the cabbage with the dressing.

March 8, 2010

Homesick

Filed under: Fish, Pasta — Tags: , — emiglia @ 11:23 am

“You know that point in your life when you realize the house you grew up in isn’t really your home anymore? All of a sudden even though you have some place where you put your shit, that idea of home is gone.”

The reason that a film like Garden State (from which I have stolen this quote) does so well is because of the truth behind it–genuine feelings, no matter how contrived the situation chosen to put them across, will always prevail over high-tech special effects and sickly-sweet romance, in the end. When this is no longer true, cinema will be dead.

But enough of my personal views on movies, and back to the quote, which is ringing especially true for me now that “that idea of home is gone.” For those of you who have not been following me for the nearly-four years (wow) that I have been amassing this collection of random thoughts and recipes, this is the first time in seven years that I have lived in the same state as my parents, much less in their house–from Andover, MA to Toronto to Cannes to Paris to San Sebastian, I’ve finally made my way back to my childhood home in New York City… only to find myself thrust into a weird in-between stage.

It’s a place where it’s perfectly normal for my peers to be getting married and having babies, but no one throws a second glance my way when I say I’ve moved home. Of my graduating class, it’s hard to say what the majority of people are doing, what the status quo is. My “normal” was so far removed from everyone else’s for so long that coming back home, eating dinner at my kitchen table and seeing my parents every day is, for lack of a better word, weird.

For a long time, I used to get a feeling of intense, random panic that felt like homesickness, although it wasn’t really attached to a place, but more a time–a time on Long Island when summer days lasted forever and we were all thrown together into our huge house by the sea.

It’s been weeks since I was out there–these pictures are from a random trek to the beach when the sun still started setting at 4, and the last thing I was thinking of was plunging head-first into the waves–and yet when I think of home, that’s where my mind goes: not to the couch I’m sleeping on, or to the fact that now that I’m back “home.” Instead, I can’t get over the feeling that I’m in everyone else’s way. All this time of revolting against the idea, the open invitation, “why don’t you just move home?” and now is when I learn that the open invitation wasn’t quite so open… that the ideal of me living at home is something that, like my dreams of home on Long Island, is caught in a time that has long-since passed.

The dream’s been shattered for all of us, as they realize that me moving home means that I’ll actually be around all the time, and I realize that moving back to a place where my room has long-since been converted into a room for my little sister involves a new sort of nomadic life, a series of days filled with carting my “stuff” around the apartment, trying to find a new home for the few things I allowed to follow me “home” from my old life: a pile of papers constituting my manuscript and my bank statements, a couple of pairs of shoes that don’t fit into the closet that I finally won the fight to own, the blanket that I sleep under on the couch in the den.

I guess what’s strange is the fact that, for so long, I found myself trying to nest and build a home around me in the life that I had chosen. Even if my apartment in Paris or the room I rented in San Sebastian never felt quite like home, it was mine. I would move into whatever new space I had chosen to inhabit, stack my books on the shelves just so, move the furniture until it made sense to the way I lived my life: a chair by the window, coffee mugs lined up on the counter, wine glasses low where I could reach them. And even as I did this, created these spaces that were “homey,” it was always home, that place you can apparently never go back to, that was on my mind.

I know it’s not a new feeling, if only because of the sheer number of quotes published by someone much wiser than I that discuss it. But I’ve finally realized upon moving “home” after all these years, that this is it: everything I own is here, shoved into this closet or under my brother’s bed… there’s no where else to go, no plane ticket to hold in the back of my mind as an end date, no empty apartment waiting for me or boxes holding my things until I get back. There’s no back to go to.

So why do I still feel homesick?

Spaghetti with Crab
6 oz. spaghetti
1 bay leaf
1 can lump crab
1 tsp. peri-peri sauce (or other hot sauce)
1/4 tsp. freshly crushed black pepper
salt to taste

Prepare salted boiling water for the spaghetti, and add a bay leaf. Cook the spaghetti until al dente and drain, reserving a half-cup of pasta water.

Toss the pasta with the crab and the peri-peri sauce. Add pasta water as needed to add moisture. Toss with black pepper and salt, and pretend that things are always as they were, and you’re eating fresh seafood barefoot by the bay.


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