Tomato Kumato

July 13, 2010

Peach Clafoutis

Filed under: Cakes — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 12:18 pm

IMG_7665 (Modified)

I speak slowly and carefully, even when I’m doing a million things at once. “Met les pâtes dans la casserole,” I say to one of the girls. She looks at the giant pile of noodles–four bags that amount to two kilos.

Tout ?” she asks, unsure.

Tout.” I reply, turning back to chopping tomatoes. From behind me, I hear the tell-tale sound of dehydrated pasta hitting the tiled floor I’ve just swept for the third time this week.

C’est pas grave,” I say, without even turning around. I reach for a broom as I catch the eye of the girl who’s dropped the pasta, her face still playing host to a worried expression. The Sous-Chef laughs.

“It’s only grave if she does it,” she says, referring to my habit of letting things slide–egg dropping, adding of too much salt, incorrect tomato slicing, overwhipping of egg whites… as long as it’s not me who does it, “C’est pas grave.” If I’m the one setting torchons on fire or overcooking rice or dropping bread on the floor, however, watch out… it’s a calamity.

Somehow, though, on a recent occasion, I gave myself a free ride. I bought a ridiculous amount of peaches last Monday when the marchande de pêches came to our little square: something about hearing that familiar “Allô, allô,” over the loudspeaker again made me overzealous, and somehow, it suddently made sense to buy an entire cajet of peaches, even though somewhere in my Excel spreadsheet head I was certain there was no way we would get through all of them in a week, even if I did make jam. And sure enough, even though I gobbled them like candy and made two batches of confiture, I ended up nearing the end of the week with a basket full of peaches who looked as though they were on their last legs.

“C’est pas grave,” I said, to the astonishment of the Sous-Chef who, I’m sure, was expecting a major meltdown. (She knows me too well).

Instead, I whipped out this recipe for clafoutis I’ve been meaning to try, replacing the apricots with peaches. It was an amazing success; the texture was perfect, the taste of the creamy custard the perfect foil for the peaches I’ve come to look forward too all year long. I would have eaten it breakfast, lunch and dinner, but it’s all gone now. C’est pas grave… I’m sure there will be other opportunities for clafoutis.

IMG_7666 (Modified)

Peach Clafoutis (adapted from Chez LouLou’s recipe for apricot clafoutis)

12 ounces fresh peaches, pitted and cut in four
1 cup minus 2 tablespoons sifted flour
¼ teaspoon salt
2 cups whole milk
3 large eggs
½ cup sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 tablespoons butter, cut into 6 pieces

Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees F.

Butter and lightly flour a 9½ inch round tart pan or baking dish with deep sides.

Place the peaches in the tart pan.

Combine the flour and the salt in a large bowl and whisk together.

Add 1 cup of the milk and whisk until completely smooth, then add the eggs, one by one, whisking briefly after each addition.

Whisk in the vanilla sugar, the vanilla extract and the remaining 1 cup of milk.

Pour the batter over the apricots and dot with the butter pieces.

Place in the center of the oven and bake for about 25 minutes, until puffed and golden brown.

Let cool completely before serving,

September 23, 2009

Crème Catalane

Filed under: Side Dishes, Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , — emiglia @ 12:49 pm

When life hands you lemons, make lemonade.

I’ve always had a hard time with that proverb, not because I don’t believe it’s true, but because I’ve always had a hard time with the visual nature of proverbs. I know that “when life hands you lemons…” is supposed to make you think of the hard parts of your life and how to change them to make them better, but as for me, I always just think of freshly squeezed lemonade.

I guess it’s the foodie in me.

But I do believe in the essence of the proverb, once I get over my obsession with freshly squeezed lemonade (add a little bit of raspberry, and I’m in heaven.) Although I prefer to think of it as, “when life gives you a botched recipe for crème catalane, use a blowtorch.”

And yes, don’t worry, I do plan to explain myself.

I’ve been combing through my pictures from this summer ever snce I got my new computer, and I found these, of a crème catalane that was saved thanks to Marc’s quick thinking and the fact that he even had a blow torch to begin with. For me, this metaphor runs even more true, perhaps just for the absurdity of it: I’m always the one ready to come up with a half-baked crazy idea out of left-field to solve even the most mundane of problems. Making mountains out of molehills, and all that jazz. (OK, OK, I’m stopping.)

At the end of the day, I just find it more fun: when things aren’t working out for me, instead of making a little change, I overhaul my life: I dye my hair a drastic new color, I pick up a completely new activity, I start going by a new nickname, and, of course, as so many of you on here are bound to be aware of by now, I move: to a new city, but more often, to an entirely new country. It doesn’t work for everyone, but it works for me.

When these crème catalanes didn’t brulée in the oven like the recipe swore they would (I had my doubts from the beginning), I could have just made a lovely caramel sauce for them and be done with it. They would have still been delicious: you can’t go wrong with creamy custard infused with delicate citrus and cinnamon.

Or, I could have trekked all over Perpignan looking for a kitchen torch, only to spy Marc’s heavy duty blowtorch, and have a little bit too much fun bruléeing 20 crème catalanes. Honestly, which one would you prefer?

So when life gives you lemons, go ahead and make lemonade, if you want to.

Or, you could come up with something just a little bit fantastic.

Creme Catalane (serves 6)

Creme catalane is the Catalan version of a simple crème brulée, infused with cinnamon and citrus. If you have a favorite crème brulée recipe already, you can easily add these flavors to your own recipe. If not, here’s how I do it.

1 liter whole milk
zest of 1 lemon
zest of 1 orange
1 cinnamon stick
70 g. flour
8 egg yolks
raw sugar (for bruléed topping)

Place the milk in a heavy-bottomed pot and add the zests and cinnamon. Bring to a simmer and then reduce the heat, stirring every once in awhile. Cook for 15 minutes. Your kitchen should smell incredible.

Combine the flour and egg yolks with a whisk until the yolks have lightened in color and the flour is completely combined.

Enlist a friend for this step or risk being burned: while whisking continuously, pour the milk mixture in one fluid stream into the egg mixture. Return the whole mixture to the pot and place it back over the heat. Whisk continuously until the mixture thickens and resembles thick cream.

Distribute the mixture in ramekins and chill in the fridge for at least three hours.

When ready to serve, remove from the fridge and top with a thin, even layer of raw sugar. Brulée the tops with a kitchen torch or a blowtorch… or really any torch you’ve got lying around the house.

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