Tomato Kumato

July 3, 2009

A la bolognaise

Filed under: Beef, Carnivorous Main Dishes, Pasta — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 2:06 am

It’s incredible what a difference a year makes.

A year ago, I was in Paziols, but the similarities end there.

A year ago, Alex and I weren’t together. A year ago, I was still in school. A year ago, I had no idea what I wanted to do with my life.

Well… I guess I still don’t. But I’m working on it. I’m not in a hurry.

That’s what the South does to you: something I had forgotten since I knew it so well a year ago, when so much of my time was still spent back and forth on the train to Cannes for weekends at the beach and nights out in my favorite Irish pub–a pub so incredible with staff that were such good friends that I thought nothing of riding the train five hours just to be able to sit at the bar and have a pint.

But I’m not in Cannes, or even in Provence. I am in the South–in Paziols. Third time’s the charm, or so they say, but everything about my life in Paziols–the three summers I’ve spent living in this old house and watching it change and evolve before my eyes–has been charming: the third year is just that… one more year of being here, in what Anne-Marie has always told us to call our “home” in France.

And it does feel like a home–after so long of not having one, I had forgotten what it feels like to be so completely right in a place: not just in an apartment, like in Paris, or in a town you know like the back of your hand, like our summer house in Westhampton, but a place that has everything: a town, a house, a built-in family.

I do the cooking here now that Patricia is gone, and that makes this feel even more like my house, as I put together menus and call on the kids as though they were my own siblings to help me wash vegetables and chop tomatoes and carry platters laden with salads and potatoes and meat to the table where the rest of them sit waiting. It’s nothing like any camp experience I had when growing up: they all know, even after having been here for less than 48 hours, that we’re a family, that this is their home too.

A year ago, it wasn’t like this–not really. It may have been because it was still so new for all of us, even the staff. It may have been because the group we have this year is chomping at the bit to be let out into the green pastures of vines that sprawl on all sides, to ask constantly, “Comment dit-on…” How do you say…

How do you say what it is I want to say? Even I don’t know, and I’ve been mulling it over for days as I sleep beneath an opened window and listen to crickets chirp and wait for the midnight crow of the rooster who’s either confused or running on his own schedule, as the South tends to do.

They love it. I can tell they do. I could tell from the moment I listened in on their conversation at the airport–three girls who had never met before, talking about how great it would be when they were fluent. They reminded me of myself, and that, in and of itself, made me smile.

I don’t know why this is so different from what it was a year ago. A year ago, none of this was real for me, but this year, it couldn’t be more real.

Spaghetti à la bolognaise (serves 20)

2 Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 onions
2 carrots
2 stalks of celery
200 g. lardons
1.8 kilo ground beef
430 g. tomato coulis
765 g. canned whole tomatoes
1 glass wine
2 cups milk

Mince the carrots, onion and celery. Melt the oil and butter together in a skillet and slowly cook the vegetables over medium heat until tender. Season generously with salt.

Push the vegetables to the side and add the lardons. Cook until golden.

Pull the vegetables back into the middle of the skillet and mix with the lardons. Push the mixture back to the sides of the slillet and add the meat in small amounts, browning well before pushing it to the side as well.

Prepare a large stock pot with a lid. When the skillet grows too full, scoop the vegetables and meat out with a slotted spoon and keep warm in the stock pot. Continue frying the meat in the skillet and transferring it, as need be, to the pot. When all the meat is cooked, remove the skillet from the heat and place the stock pot over a low flame.

Add the wine and the milk, and bring to a boil. Add the tomatoes and mix to combine. Reduce the flame back to low and cover. Cook for 2-4 hours, stirring occasionally. Season with more salt as needed and serve with spaghetti. Keeps well in the fridge to serve hungry campers for lunch.


March 29, 2009

Daring Bakers: Lasagne Verdi al Forno

Filed under: Beef, Carnivorous Main Dishes, Daring Bakers, Pasta, Pork — Tags: , — emiglia @ 3:02 pm

The March 2009 challenge is hosted by Mary of Beans and Caviar, Melinda of Melbourne Larder and Enza of Io Da Grande. They have chosen Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna from The Splendid Table by Lynne Rossetto Kasper as the challenge.

I was so excited that my very first Daring Bakers’ Challenge was something savory: I joined the Daring Bakers because I really do want to challenge myself, but if you take a look at some of the monstrous cakes the Bakers have made in the past, you’ll understand why I was a little bit nervous.

The lasagna was no easy task either: we had to make a ragu, homemade spinach pasta and homemade béchamel.


In the end, I found that all of the tasks were fairly simple. Yes, the ragu has to cook for hours before it’s ready to eat, and yes, the pasta requires a lot of rolling. But I paced myself and made the ragu separately a few days in advance. I had already made béchamel several times for other recipes, so it was quite simple as well.

That just left the pasta recipe, but in the end, I just asked myself why I didn’t make homemade pasta more often.

Especially now that it’s all gone.

I love the flecks of spinach in the homemade pasta!
I made half of the pasta recipe provided but I made all of the ragu and béchamel. I ended up making much thicker layers than were called for in the recipe: I used three layers of pasta and I used up all of the béchamel. Some ragú was left, so I tossed it with the leftover pasta.

They ate all of it.

Alex swooned and started telling people on the phone that I made homemade lasagna “à la main,” and then my friend Matt came over and finished it off.

As for me? I loved it. It’s definitely in the top two lasagne I’ve ever had in my life, and the fact that there were no artificial flavorings and everything was made by hand makes it shoot up to number one in my book.

I’ll definitely be making it again… but this time I’m making a bigger batch.

The recipe is available here.

Please, don’t be scared off by fresh pasta like I was: try this recipe. Your loved ones will thank you for it… with their mouths full.

March 16, 2009

Alex’s Birthday

I have a problem.

I write one post a day, usually. Sometimes, I don’t write a post at all. But I make dinner every day. And lunch most days. And pretty much everything I make is something that I want to blog about, otherwise I wouldn’t have made it. Throw in the fact that I worked for a month, during which I barely had the energy to eat what I had made, much less blog about it (ugh… remind me never to work again), and you have quite an archive of unblogged recipes.

This, of course, is how I end up blogging about Alex’s birthday, which is at the beginning of February, more than halfway through March.

This meal was definitely blog-worthy. After discussing whether we wanted to take his friends out on the town, we decided we would much prefer having a party at home. This, of course, meant that I was cooking. After Alex made a series of odd requests, like “meat cake” (which I took to mean meatloaf, something he had never heard of but now desperately wants me to make), we settled on pasta with bolognese sauce. For me, of course, this was a challenge: I was going to make real Bolognese, and I was going to follow all the rules.

The recipe I followed is outlined, in detail, here, at FX Cuisine. A very large majority of the recipes on this site have made their way onto my list of things to try, but I’ve never attempted any of them before. They always look so gorgeous, but I’ve always been afraid that a) I’d mess them up, or b) they wouldn’t be worth the hours it takes to make them properly.

I needn’t have been afraid. (Wow… I just used needn’t in a sentence. Crazy.) I followed the recipe to the letter, chicken livers included (something I had never tried to use before, but I really liked in the sauce.) It was incredible, and everyone agreed. My only regret is that I didn’t make it for someone who truly appreciates slow-cooked Italian food, like my brother or my dad. Oh well… they’ll be getting a taste of the Neapolitan Meat Sauce soon enough… like next Christmas.

I think what my guests truly appreciated were the chocolate cupcakes with peanut butter frosting. I knew immediately that I would have to do something with peanut butter for Alex. I almost did something with Marshmallow Fluff too, a little piece of Americana that my Frenchman, somehow, absolutely adores, but I figured the rest of the French boys in my apartment wouldn’t take too kindly to liquid marshmallow in a jar. Instead, I went for this peanut butter and chocolate cake that Deb over at Smitten Kitchen made for her Alex for his birthday. I decided to make it in cupcake form, because big things like roasts and cakes scare me.

The cupcakes were a huge success (although this is the embarrassing excuse for a picture of the final product that I found on my camera… this is what happens when I try to tackle Bolognese and cake in the same afternoon). I’ll have to try the full cake someday, when I’m not so scared.

This is chocolate peanut butter ganache.

It is incredible in every sense of the word.

February 2, 2009

Ragú con Salsiccia

Filed under: Carnivorous Main Dishes, Pasta, Pork — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 9:19 am

Sometimes, I make recipes that I absolutely adore, and then when it comes time to blog about them, I have very little to say. This ragú di salsiccia recipe, for example, which I had bookmarked for months and finally made this summer, was a dream: I love meat sauces for pasta. They’re so much more substantial than regular tomato sauce, and pasta with sauce is a very easy meal to serve to a group. My main problem with meat sauces in general is the length of time it takes to make one, which is why this recipe appealed to me so much: it’s very quick and easy, and extremely tasty.

So why did it take me so long to write about it? I know that every time I went through my list of recipes to post, the picture attached to this one stopped me: so rarely are my tomato sauces so bright red and pleasing to the eye… usually the onions I add to mine turn the tomatoes closer to orange than bright red.

I guess it’s because I don’t know what to write when I take someone else’s recipe, make it, and don’t change a thing. I like to supply my readers with recipes that come with hints: things I tried that made the original better. As far as this one is concerned, I have nothing to add. Very little to say. Go home and make it on a night when you have to work, because a meal that tastes this slow-cooked deserves to brighten up a midweek evening.

December 3, 2007

Lasagna… replaced.

Filed under: Carnivorous Main Dishes, Pasta, cheese — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 8:50 am

When I first learned how to cook (that is, cook things besides Kraft Dinner, omelettes and grilled cheese) more than three years ago, one of the first things I learned how to make was tomato sauce. The second was lasagna. What are you going to do with a vat of tomato sauce when you’re just one person?

My mother taught me, as she teaches everything, by speaking, not by showing or writing down, and so I would repeat the instructions to myself nervously as I made my lasagna.

It worked out well. It definitely wasn’t my mother’s, but I was able to feed my friends, and when I finally moved from Toronto to Paris, it was one of the two recipes (along with my guacamole) that my friend Mel asked me for. Well, I have yet to give her the recipe, because I teach by showing, but when I do, it’s not going to be the one I made three years ago.

I’m sorry, Mommy. But to be fair, it was never the same when I made it, and this one comes so much closer to the saucy, crispy around the edges, cheesy, flavorful lasagna that I remember you serving us when we were kids. And I did get it from an Italian… that has to count for something, right?

This lasagna comes from the one and only Little Big Head (Giada de Laurentiis), whom I have hardly ever trusted with anything culinary. I guess she couldn’t have been all wrong… it does take some talent to make your hair stand up that high and to say decadent at a rate of about once every hundred words, but Giada, I’ve made fun of you for too long, and I’m sorry. You’ve proven me wrong with this lasagna, so now I’m sharing it with the world in hopes of redeeming myself.

Classic Italian Lasagna (courtesy of foodnetwork.com)

Bechamel Sauce:
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 2 tablespoons for the lasagna
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups whole milk at room temperature
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
1 1/2 cups tomato sauce
Salt and white pepper1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound ground chuck beef
Salt and pepper
1 1/2 pounds ricotta cheese
3 large eggs
1 pound lasagna sheets, cooked al dente
2 packages (10 ounces each) frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
3 cups shredded mozzarella
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.Bechamel sauce:
In a 2-quart pot, melt 5 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. When butter has completely melted, add the flour and whisk until smooth, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the milk, whisking constantly to prevent any lumps from forming. Continue to simmer and whisk over medium heat until the sauce is thick, smooth and creamy, about 10 minutes. The sauce should be thick enough to coat the back of wooden spoon. Remove from heat and add the nutmeg and tomato sauce. Stir until well combined and check for seasoning. Set aside and allow to cool completely.

In a saute pan, heat extra-virgin olive oil. When almost smoking, add the ground beef and season with salt and pepper. Brown meat, breaking any large lumps, until it is no longer pink. Remove from heat and drain any excess fat. Set aside and allow to cool completely.

In a medium sized bowl, thoroughly mix the ricotta and eggs. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Into the bottom of a 13 by 9-inch baking dish, spread 1/3 of the bechamel sauce. Arrange the pasta sheets side by side, covering the bottom of the baking dish. Evenly spread a layer of all the ricotta mixture and then a layer of all the spinach. Arrange another layer of pasta sheets and spread all the ground beef on top. Sprinkle 1/2 the mozzarella cheese on top of the beef. Spread another 1/3 of the bechamel sauce. Arrange the final layer of pasta sheets and top with remaining bechamel, mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses. Cut the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter into 1/4-inch cubes and top lasagna.

Line a large baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place lasagna dish on top, cover and put on the middle rack of the oven and bake until top is bubbling, about 30 minutes. Remove cover and continue to bake for about 15 minutes.

This keeps well, just reheat it in the oven (or microwave for just one serving). It tastes even better the next day. Serve with extra tomato sauce and parmesan on the side.

November 3, 2007

The Best Chili Ever

Filed under: Beans and Legumes, Beef, Carnivorous Main Dishes — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 12:57 pm

I’m not terribly impressed with the picture… but there was no way I couldn’t blog about this. This is the chili to end all chilis. I don’t know if I’ll ever need to make another chili again. Well… scratch that. I know I want to make another chili, but I don’t think the Canadian would stand for it. When I made this for him last week, he turned to me and said: “I think this is the best chili I’ve ever had.” He claimed he wasn’t even hungry before I brought it out, but he ended up having two servings that night and finishing the leftovers the following afternoon. Are you ready for it yet?

As usual, the original recipe for Beef and Dark Beer Chili, which I found on epicurious, needed some tweaking. Funnily enough, Jen over at Life’s Too Short to Eat Fat Free Cheese had tried the recipe just a day before I had intended to. I was a little worried, because she didn’t seem impressed, but I went along with my plan, changing the following aspects of the recipe:

1. I used double the jalapeño, but no chipotle chili.

2. I doubled the tomatoes asked for in the recipe, and I used whole canned tomatoes with juice.

3. I added a few tablespoons of tomato paste.

4. I added a lot more beer (Guinness)… about double.

5. Instead of sautéing the veggies in olive oil, I just drained most of the beef fat and fried them in that.

The end result was a lot saucier than the recipe called for, and it was quite spicy, but I served it with sour cream and grated cheese. My policy for chili making is to taste as I go… I cooked this chili for almost two hours, and I checked it every time I stirred, adding more spice and liquid as I saw fit. In the end, it paid off, and the Canadian loved it.

October 4, 2007

Lasagna

Filed under: Carnivorous Main Dishes, Pasta, cheese — Tags: , — emiglia @ 11:29 am

All this talk about comfort food from last month’s book of the month (stay tuned for this month’s, coming up shortly), has started me thinking about what comfort food means to me. It’s actually always kind of been an obsession of mine… finding out what other people’s comfort foods are. It has a lot to do with what we were raised with, and it’s usually served hot. Comfort food also usually not good for you, but whatever… it’s good for the soul.

I always thought my comfort food was spaghetti and meatballs… and on some days, it is. But I think that skirts the definition of comfort food, which, to me, is something that makes you feel better no matter where, no matter when. And for me, that’s lasagna.

To break in a new house, I always make a huge pot of tomato sauce. The thing is, when I live alone, I don’t end up eating as much pasta as I thought I would, so my vat of tomato sauce excursion is almost always immediately followed by a lasagna-making extravaganza. After years of doing this, lasagna has slowly become my comfort food… easily grabbed, reheated, and served with extra tomato sauce and parmesan cheese on top. Preferably eaten out of a bowl… I have a thing about bowls. I find them far superior to plates. Come to think of it, I like spoons better than forks… only the little ones though. But I digress… (and make very frequent use of the ellipses…)

For the past two years, all of my friends were vegetarians, so I made lasagna with a layer of spinach instead of meat. In Paris, however, meat is definitely fair game, and so I’ve started making traditional meat lasagna… the way my mom makes it. And it’s even better with fresh basil from my basil plant scattered over the top.

September 21, 2007

A Tale of Two Chilis

Filed under: Beef, Carnivorous Main Dishes, Chicken — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 3:34 pm

I love chili. I really, really do. I like soup OK, and I love stew, but I’m too lazy to make it. No, when it comes to warm the spirit big old pots of something hot and delicious, it has to be chili. And it has to be spicy.

This week I made two pots of chili… I know… kind of overkill. But in my defense, there’s hardly any left at all!

The first one was a Beef and Bean Chili from epicurious, which I had to, as usual, pick apart and put together to my own liking. I swapped broth for beer (because why have broth when you can have beer?), swapped kidney beans for white beans (because… everyone together now… they don’t have them in France), and upped the heat factor. A lot. Like, 5 jalapeño peppers, my hands were burning for two days after, and plus I poked myself in the eye, but I don’t even care because this chili was so good, hot.

Hmm… my chili doesn’t appear to be very photogenic. I know what to do!

Add cilantro, creme fraiche, shredded cheese, and spring onions! Cuts the heat.
My friend and I ate most of this for dinner the night we made it, and then I finished off the rest the next day for lunch. No more! But then after she had gone, I was starting to feel lonely, and my tummy was grumbling for more chili. I wanted something completely different, so I went through my recipe list and found this: Chicken and Sweet Potato Chili.

The only thing I changed was to use orange sweet potatoes instead of white, and to go for the jalapeño option over the chipotle, so I won’t repost the recipe here. But oh, my, God. It was incredible. Not that I got to keep it for myself or anything. I had made the huge pot of chili, leaving the beans out to add when I got back from a wine and cheese party at my school so they wouldn’t get all mushy. But at the party, I met up with a friend, who I invited back to help me finish my cupcakes and muffins, and as we were sitting around, enjoying our beer, she invited a friend who was having a tough time finding an apartment. He said he would be there soon, but that he had to get some food, so of course I offered to feed him. Leftover lasagna, ratatouille, cheese, tomato sauce… my fridge is a regular cornucopia of good things to eat… not to mention the aforementioned baked goods. He was just about to settle for the lasagna, when he noticed the huge pot on the stove.

“What’s that?”

“Oh… just some chili.”

I later learned that this boy was from the South.

“Chili?!?”

“Yeah… it’s not done yet.”

“How long ’til it’s done?”

Do I lie? Keep it all for myself? *Sigh* No. I cook to give.

“Ten minutes.”

And sure enough, ten minutes later, the three of us were burning our mouths on bowls of this hot, sweet, tasty chili. No pictures, I’m afraid, but I do have a new favorite. I still have one container left in the fridge, and it seems I’ve made a new friend…

Here’s a recipe for the first chili…

Heat 1 tbsp oil in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add 1 medium white onion, chopped; sauté until brown, about 6 minutes. Add 5 chopped jalapeños (unless you’re not like me with an asbestos tongue… then two or three should be sufficient) and 2-3 cloves of garlic, minced; sauté 1 minute. Add 10 oz beef; sauté until brown, breaking up with back of fork, about 5 minutes. Add 1 tbsp chili powder, 2 tsp cumin, and 1/2 tsp paprika, then mix in 1 28 oz can whole plum tomatoes with juices, 1 15 oz. can of white beans, and one small bottle of light beer; bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer until chili thickens and flavors blend, stirring occasionally, about 45 minutes. Skim any fat from surface of chili.

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