Tomato Kumato

May 16, 2010

Festival Frolicking and Salade Nicoise

Filed under: Fish, Restaurant Reviews, Salad — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 7:42 am

I’ve been holding out on you all, and I’m sorry. I have a job at one of the most glamorous events in the world, and I haven’t even posted any pictures of famous people or reviews of Wall Street or the new Robin Hood. For shame.

Not-so-famous people climbing the red-carpeted stairs for a 4:00 premiere.
Not-so-famous people climbing the red-carpeted stairs for a 4:00 premiere.

Well, I’m sorry to disappoint… but I haven’t seen any famous people, and the only films I’ve seen have been shorts at the Short Film Corner in the basement of the Palais. You see, my job, as most people who work in entertainment are bound to tell you, is not all that glamorous. I use a fairly ancient internet connection (seriously… it reminds me of my old AOL 2.0, when we had to disconnect the phone to go online) to post videos of red carpet and press conference footage that I get from my colleagues who actually go to these events and film them. They call out the names of famous people to get them to look their way, and I edit the clips into one-minute segments and post them online for the world to see. See? Boring.

So yesterday, I decided I had to do something fun. Well, that, and my roommate here au collège (the same school I stayed at when I passed my DALF almost three years ago), who is at the festival solely for the parties, decided that she was going to do something fun, and I felt lame trudging back to work again. Instead, I took the liberty of a long lunch, as people often do here in France, and walked from the Palais down to the Palm Beach Casino, at the end of the Croisette. There, at the de luxe Pool Beach, you can rent a transat (lounge chair) for 30 Euro and spend the afternoon being treated like a celebrity–or at least someone very, very rich and important.

We started with a bottle of rosé, the perfect beverage for a beach day, even if Cannes is a little bit cooler than it has been in past years (we wrapped ourselves with towels to stay warm and let the rosé do the rest). I then ordered a salade nicoise avec thon mi-cuit, which is a nicois salad with seared tuna–an absolutely delicious meal, especially when eaten off your lap as you stare off into the cool blue Med.

I was lucky that my friends had arrived early to snag us seats by the shore–most of the transats are closer to the pool that give the beachside restaurant its name, where a DJ was spinning electronica and house and dancers were high on platforms near the pool, a pool that people were keeping their safe distance from, as the wind was picking up, and no one wanted to be left in the cold.

We people-watched from our chairs for awhile, as a group of pipol (celebrities (that I didn’t recognize)) came in off a little put-put boat and picked their way carefully along the pontoon until the arrived on the beach, greeted by the hostess who somehow managed to pull off leopard-print high-heeled ankle boots, even two inches deep in sand.

As for me, I was more than happy to remain barefoot, sipping my glass of wine and watching everyone around me, that is, until 4:00, when the grey skies that had been looming to the west suddenly rolled in, bringing a couple of raindrops that had us up and out of there in a hurry.

Some were not so quick to leave, as they created tents of parasols and waited out the storm. We were lucky enough to snag a cab in the parking lot, and so I headed back to work at the Palais, where people were huddled under umbrellas as they watched those ascending the red-carpeted stairs for a 4:00 film. I was more than happy to get back to the safety of our dry office in the basement of the Palais, where my headphones and editing software were waiting for me. OK, so I’m a geek–what do you want from me?

October 23, 2009

Things that make me blissfully happy:

Filed under: Beans and Legumes, Restaurant Reviews — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 7:58 am

The smell of wood-burning fires.

The taste of hot apple cider.

The smell of wood-burning fires and the taste of hot apple cider together.

Skiing and singing to myself when no one can hear.

Braiding pigtails in anticipation of skiing.

My “Champagne Supernova” ritual.

Staring at a blank page, waiting for drops of blood to appear.

Piercings.

Being with people who know me through and through.

Making tomato sauce and smelling the garlic hit the hot oil.

Riding down an unknown highway at night when someone else is driving.

Sitting in silence with another person while the both of us get lost in work.

Meeting other Americans abroad and just knowing.

Holing up in a café with a café cortado (also known as a café noisette or a caffe macchiato) and my computer to write while I stare at the rain.

Surfing in the rain.

Surfing at all.

Seriously… I don’t understand how something that I barely knew anything about could become such a huge part of me in such a short time. I live for 4 o’clock, for forcing myself into a long-sleeved wetsuit and heading for the surf, board under my arm. I love to watch raindrops fall on the surface of the water–I am in Basque country, after all–especially when they’re so strong that it looks like it’s raining up instead, like the air is absorbing the ocean drop by drop all around me. The rainwater mixes with the saltwater on my face, and I never know when I lick my lips if I’ll taste clear fresh water or the heavy salt I now recognize after being tumbled again and again and again… not that I mind in the slightest.

I get a pang in my stomach when I even think about three weeks from now, when my hair will not be constantly wet, when I start to wear makeup during the day again, because there’s no reason not to if it’s not going to come pouring down your face as you make your first duck under a breaking wave.

I’m getting a little hint of what that will be like now: for the past two days, the waves have been four meters high here–so high, they even make the river angry–and since I can’t get to Mundaka, and even the best surfers in Gros don’t attempt to surf this ocean, which looks ready to devour you whole, I’ve been standing with the rest of them–all of Gros in a line along the beach instead of in the water or in a bar with a caña, watching the waves lap the beach, attacking the rocky jetty and spraying those who get too close.

Today it’s raining again, the kind of rain that I love to surf in, the kind that not only falls but seems to attack the ground, pounding and pelting every surface with gallons of water. I got a pang of longing as I stared at the uncharacteristically empty ocean and beach and headed instead to ZM, a café and restaurant right on the shore, writing instead of surfing, staring through the glass-paned windows at my ocean, already missing it even though it’s not yet truly gone.

During a pause in the rain, I went outside to take pictures, but they don’t do these waves justice: they’re huge and wild and untamable, perfect except for the fact that I can’t be out in them myself. I stood at the edge of the boardwalk and watched them smash the rocks, staring so hard I thought they would absorb me whole. When I got back, I licked my lips, and they tasted like salt spray, the salt that seems to be a permanent fixture of my life here, crusting my eyelashes and drying my hair into beach waves even though it’s nearly November, much longer than I usually allow my hair to curl rebelliously around my shoulders instead of styling it into something more manageable.

I let my usual café cortado go cold as I relished the taste of salt, licking my lips until that too was gone, and all that was left was a hint of rainbow outside and the whitewash of waves at the foot of the hill that looks out over Gros.

Vegetarian Sort-Of Chili

This isn’t really chili, but I treat it like I would chili, sprinkling shredded cheese on top and dousing it with Tabasco. It doesn’t really matter what you call it: it’s perfect after finally abandoning your seat by the window and trudging home through the pelting rain.

1 tsp. olive oil
100 g. lardons, bacon, ham… whatever
1 clove garlic, minced
3 carrots, sliced into half-moons
1 can pinto beans, drained
1 can white navy beans, drained
2 cups tomate frito or tomato purée
2 tsp. basil
1 tsp. oregano
1-2 dried cayenne peppers
salt and pepper

Heat the oil in a heavy stock pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and ham and cook one minute. Add the carrots and cook 2-3 minutes, until they start to color a bit.

Add the beans, tomato and herbs and spices. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the carrots are soft, about 20 minutes. Add water if the mixture gets too thick. Serve with hot sauce and shredded cheese.

June 11, 2009

Fuenterrabia and Pintxos

Filed under: Restaurant Reviews — Tags: , — emiglia @ 4:37 am

As I was posting about my recent trip to Hendaye and Fuenterrabia, I found these pictures that I took of some pintxos, or Basque tapas, that Alex and I had while waiting out the rain. We lucked out by stumbling into one of the most famous pintxos places in all of Fuenterrabia.

Tapas are one of my favorite ways to eat: choosing a bunch of little bites is great for me, someone who can’t make decisions at all. I love to be able to see what my food will look like before choosing what I want, and I love going back for more of the things that look tasty on other people’s plates.

We weren’t there for a meal, so we each got only one racion: mine, pictured above, was pan-seared foie gras on baguette with something called cabello de angel, or angel hair. It tasted quite a bit like marmalade, and I assumed that was what it was until I did some research and found out that it is actually caramelized members of the plant family that is made up of melons and gourds.

I’m easily tempted by raciones like this one, which combine foie gras (one of the most delightful substances on the planet) with something sweet like honey or this jam-like concoction. My selection did not disappoint, and a little bite of something this rich is really all you need.

Alex, as usual, went for something with considerably more “stuff.” His selection consisted of cheese, ham, anchovy and marinated vegetables atop bread. I can’t say very much about this, as I didn’t taste it, but he seemed to enjoy it quite a bit, and I thought it was very pretty, if nothing else.

The culture of tapas is one that I wish I understood better: every time I go into a tapas bar, I feel like an obvious tourist, and not only for the sorry state of my high school Spanish. The locals are easily detectable, not finding the ordering situation even slightly awkward. Whereas I never know whether to just pick up a plate or ask a bartender to be served, they know just what to do and which raciones to take.

Some day, I hope to be as well-versed as they are in the methods of tapa ordering and eating. Until then, I plan on practicing as much as possible.

Gran Sol

Calle San Pedro, 65

+34 943 64 27 01

April 22, 2009

Schwartz’s Deli

Filed under: Restaurant Reviews — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 5:11 am

Hello all.

I recently had a review of a New York-style deli here in Paris published at I Prefer Paris. Feel free to check it out!

January 3, 2009

What is it about food and memories?

Filed under: Restaurant Reviews, cheese — Tags: — emiglia @ 1:17 pm

When I first came to France, I was fourteen years old. A few nights before I was set to leave, my mother made a reservation at a New York restaurant called Artisanal, famous for their cheese. We had cheese fondue, and I will always associate that restaurant, that fondue, that foodie memory, with the beginning of my adventures in France. In fact, right before I started boarding school, I insisted that we go back: that restaurant would always feel like an embarkation point for me. A place where new things started and old things could be remembered and left behind.

What I didn’t realize was that my little sister does the same thing.

Seven and a half years after that first trip to Artisanal, my sister went going to the same restaurant right before she embarks on the same trip to France. Apparently, it has become the quintessential place to go any time anyone in my family goes abroad… something my brother calls an “Emily-thing.”

I’m not usually terribly impressed with cheese when I come back from France… I usually find them kind of one-dimensional. I have yet to find some great Camembert, but some of the cheeses that they brought back from the restaurant, like the gouda, goat and one hard cheese that I loved but didn’t get the name of, were just as complex and delicious as things I eat in France.

I realize that I’m probably going to recieve some sort of diatribe telling me about great Camembert that can be found in the States, and while that may be true, I’m happy enough to have found another kind of cheese I like in the States. Even if there are great American Camemberts, I may have to leave Camembert in France: it too has memories I associate with it, like baguette sandwiches I eat when walking through the city I now call home, seven years after my first trip to France and my first trip to Artisanal.
Artisanal

2 Park Ave
New York, NY 10016
(212) 725-8585

www.artisanalbistro.com

November 7, 2008

The Melting Pot

Filed under: Restaurant Reviews, cheese — Tags: , — emiglia @ 7:59 am

Here in Paris, when we have tourists to entertain, one of the main spots to take them is Le Refuge des Fondus, a fondue restaurant in Montmarte where the waiters are surly, the seating space is impossibly tight, and the wine is served in baby bottles.

In Minnesota, however, the equivalent is a chain restaurant that I’d heard of but never visited until I went to Minneapolis for my friend’s wedding in September: the Melting Pot.

One of the biggest differences for me, however, wasn’t the fact that the Melting Pot is separated into comfy booths, the groups are greeted by smiling waitresses, and the number of sweet, pink, girly cocktails that are available. For me, the main difference is the fact that here, cheese fondue is not considered a main course.

I had heard this blasphemy two years ago, when I was living in Toronto and had decided to throw a fondue party, with cheese fondue as the main course and chocolate as dessert. My roommate at the time informed me that “cheese isn’t dinner.” I strongly disagree, as do the many people I know here in Paris who gladly accompany me to fondue and raclette restaurants where we gorge ourselves on so much cheese that we need to be rolled home. The Melting Pot, however, for some reason holds an anti-cheese stance, and cheese is offered as the appetizer, followed by a meat fondue.

We tried four different kinds of fondue: two cheese and two meat. The cheeses were one traditional one with Swiss cheese and wine, and one cheddar and beer fondue. The meat fondues were very similar to one another and included potstickers, filet steak, salmon, teriyaki beef, chicken and shrimp. We of course helped ourselves to chocolate fondue as well.

The experience was very different to what I’ve come to expect of fondue restaurants here in France. Even the most gimmicky, like le Refuge des Fondus, still retains some of the traditional aspect of serving fondue. Moving the experience to a restaurant where the heating elements are built into the tables felt almost wrong… even if it was quite tasty.

I think the Melting Pot and I have gone our seperate ways. I’ve gotten too accustomed to the way they do fondue here in France, and once you go French, it’s hard to go back.

November 6, 2008

Cacao Sampaka

Filed under: Restaurant Reviews — Tags: , — emiglia @ 7:38 am

Because I have two blogs of my own, plus several writing jobs besides, I decided this summer that I needed to keep a list of all of the blog posts that needed to be made. In the past, I did it simply by going through my iPhoto library until I found something that I hadn’t blogged about yet, but that was getting to be too disorganized.

However, even my organization allows things to slip through the cracks. I have five or six blog posts dating back so far (the oldest is from last April!) that every time it comes time to write about them, I don’t remember what it was I wanted to say.

But I feel badly for those little posts… they meant to make it out into this world, and now they’re just a few key words sitting in a Word document on my hard drive. Well no more! Starting here, with Cacao Sampaka, those posts are going to make it out into the blogosphere, where, hopefully, they will find readers to love them.

(Note to self: stop personifying blog posts. It’s weird.)

This all brings me to Cacao Sampaka, a chocolate shop in Barcelona that was recommended to me by one of my readers, Oren. Oren sent me an e-mail as soon as I posted that I was going to Barcelona in August, letting me know that this was the place to go for anyone who loved chocolate.

I suppose this is where most people who know me will look at the screen with a big… huh? You see, I’m famous for being the only girl anyone has ever met who isn’t obsessed with chocolate. And it’s true: I have eaten a ridiculous amount of Nutella, but in general, chocolate just isn’t my thing. Or wasn’t… until I realized the reason: it’s too sweet.

It’s like coffee: I like my coffee black and strong. No sugar, no milk. Sugar and milk turns one of my favorite beverages into something sickly, something not worth drinking. Black, on the other hand, coffee is my miracle. The same is true of chocolate: I’ve taken to buying baker’s dark chocolate because even the darkest chocolate bars found in the grocery store are too sweet for me. But one square of good dark chocolate, and my mind swims.

The people at Cacao Sampaka have the same philosophy. I saw someone drinking hot chocolate there (sadly, it was too late to order one by the time we arrived) that reminded me of the hot chocolate at Angelina’s here in Paris: thick, dark and satisfying.

Anyone who is into chocolate… and I mean good chocolate, owes it to themselves to pay a visit to this chocolate shop the next time they’re in Barcelona. Just the smell upon walking in lets you know you’re in the right place: most chocolate shops have a heady, heavy smell of burned syrup and cocoa, but in Cacao Sampaka, what you smell are the cocoa beans: strong, bitter and so similar to coffee that it’s a wonder I never realized before how heavenly good chocolate can be.

Cacao Sampaka

Consell de Cent, 292

Barcelona

November 5, 2008

Turtle Bread

Filed under: Restaurant Reviews, Soup — Tags: — emiglia @ 8:07 am

Turtle Bread is everything I love about middle America: a happy, smiley place that specializes in something and does it well. As much as I secretly (or not so secretly) adore the surly waiters here in France, there’s something about people who love what they do and do it with a smile that is so easy to find in America, and yet so easy to forget once you’re over here in France.

The place itself is sweet and sunny and open. The second you walk in, you are greeted by a table of fresh loaves of bread, wrapped up and ready to go, as well as another of my favorite American standbys, the free sample. If I lived in Minnesota, I’m sure that I would become a regular here, coming to pick up loaves of specialty bread. The ones they had that day included herbed breads, sourdoughs, whole wheats, and even a chocolate bread. (There were free samples of this one… it was delicious. Not too sweet. I could see how it would be perfect with a little cream cheese, fromage frais or even just some demi-sel butter.)

Turtle Bread also does soups, which is the reason that my friend, the bride, and I went that day. She ordered a squash soup and I had vegan minestrone, which was surprisingly flavorful considering the fact that there was no pancetta, no chicken broth and no parmesan cheese. Each bowl of soup comes with a slice of bread, which was also quite delicious. The crust was nice and sturdy: perfect for picking up the last drops. I also ordered a salad, which was dressed lightly with a delicious vinaigrette.

We have specialty shops here in France, but for some reason, it doesn’t feel the same to me. In the States, even chains like this one can feel family-run and friendly. I guess what I’m trying to say is, I’ve never had such a happy bowl of soup.

Turtle Bread

4762 Chicago Ave South
Minneapolis, MN 55407
tel: 612-823-7333

http://www.turtlebread.com/

September 4, 2008

Steak-Frites

Filed under: Beef, Restaurant Reviews — Tags: , — emiglia @ 6:29 pm

Yesterday, I addressed tapas, the traditional Spanish taster item that allows socializing at the bar to last well into the evening. Tapas have evolved from a mere bar snack to something gourmet: a sign of the fact that Barcelona is becoming a culinary capital in its own right.

However, with this title comes certain qualities, not all of them good. One of the unfortunate side effects of an increased popularity in the culinary culture of the city is the recent addition of nouvelle cuisine restaurants.

Don’t get me wrong: sometimes I love a tiny taster dish of something foamy, gelatine or powdered, just to keep up with the trends and to see if I can stumble upon anything truly creative. However, there comes a point when nouvelle cuisine goes too far, and I have to say that the steak-frites at Brown, a restaurant above Plaça Catalunya on the Rambla, is a prime example of this.

Brown comes off as a normal restaurant: a little fancy by Barcelona standards, maybe, but with normal menu items like pizza, pasta and steak-frites on the menu. The steak was lovely: perfectly cooked and seasoned. However, the steak was meant to be accompanied by fries. After he had downed one of Brown’s potent cocktails, my eating companion was looking forward to the large pile of fries that generally accompanies a steak in this sort of dinner situation.

There were, instead, four fries sitting in a perfectly constructed square next to the large steak. None of us quite knew what to say when the dish came out of the kitchen, and so the owner of the plate promptly reached down, picked one up, and took a bite. This was, of course, when the laughing and picture-taking began, thus the presence of three, rather than four, apparently delicious fries in my photo.

I understand small plates. I adore tapas. But there comes a point when it’s just too much, or in this case, too few, and fries are one of those food items when more is almost always better than less.

September 3, 2008

Txapela

Filed under: Restaurant Reviews — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 2:50 pm


I am one of those people who, when in a restaurant, often ends up choosing at the last minute. Yeah… “Can you come to me last?” That’s me.

I know it’s annoying to others, but I can’t help it. There are always so many things on the menu I want to taste! When I was a vegetarian for a year, I was briefly relieved of this issue: there are seldom many vegetarian choices on most menus. However, when I came back to the dark (read: meat-eating) side, it was even worse. I am famous for always picking the best thing on the menu, but it often takes me a while to get there.

Not a problem at Txapela. This (difficult to pronounce) restaurant in Barcelona serves one thing: tapas.

As with most restaurants that specialize in one particular area, Txapela does tapas very well. You are presented with a menu of assorted tapas with both pictures and descriptions in order to make your decisions. Much in the vein of a sushi bar, you can order as much as you want to start, slowly ordering more and more if you are still hungry.

Alex and I visited Txapela in Plaça Catalunya when we were visiting Barcelona a few weeks ago. So as not to embarass him, I only took a few pictures.

This was one of my favorites. It was foie gras on applesauce served with fresh chives sprinkled over the top. I loved the combination of sweet and rich, and it was the perfect size for such a bite.

I try patatas bravas whenever they are offered, so I had to see how Txapela’s version measured up. The potatoes themselves were perfect: perfectly fried and hot, with just enough salt. To me, the sauce was a little bit too mayonnaise-y and didn’t pack the heat I usually love, but Alex loved the sauce and dipped his bread in it.

This was a cold, marinated octopus popsicle, of sorts. It was served with a mix of vegetables also marinated in the same acidic sauce. This one was delicious: the octopus perfectly tender and the veggie and marinade mix a perfect complement.

Other tapas that we sampled included melted brie with a spicy tomato sauce, a bite of filet mignon steak and spanish tortilla with baccala, or salted cod. Dessert was tapas-style as well, and though Alex was surprised to see that the ice cream he ordered could be finished in two or three bites, I was happy with my “cheesecake,” a slice of cheesy custard the consistancy of Jell-o with blueberry compote on top. I could get used to a restaurant where everything is bite-sized: no more decision making!

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