Tomato Kumato

December 13, 2009

Nearly a month ago…

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: — emiglia @ 9:48 am

Nearly a month ago, I made my first of two Thanksgivings this season. We turned grocery shopping into a team sport and bought more butter than should ever be purchased at once. We cooked pounds upon pounds of sweet potatoes, the last of which we had grabbed from under the nose of another American woman (it’s a dog-eat-dog world when it comes to sweet potatoes in France). I set out two days to make the meal: one for pies, one for food. What had at first been an early Thanksgiving for those who could not go to my “real” Thanksgiving in London soon became a meal of epic proportions, as people started requesting invitations. The group exploded exponentially from seven to fifteen, and there were five pies.

So why have I waited so long to write about it?

I’m lazy. I’ve been at school 9-5. I’m exhausted. I’m lazy.

I really don’t know.

For the past three years, Thanksgiving in Paris has been my tradition. It started on a whim and soon exploded to what it is today: weeks of planning, careful preparation and timing, writing schedules so intense that if I had paid this much attention to studying for my exams, I would probably have a Nobel Prize in physics by now. What I liked about this year was the fact that I was actually able to enjoy myself, actually confident enough that I could finish everything without burning that I sat down with everyone else and ate.

From the first pie crust I made with my friend Matt sitting in the kitchen, watching and keeping me amused, to the last tray I pulled out of the kitchen, carefully watching in front of the oven to make sure that nothing burned, it was a surprisingly stress-free Thanksgiving. My friend Kat had made us feathers to wear in our hair so that we could dress up as Indians. Matt made sweet potatoes and mashed potatoes, and our friend Shyan brought a giant salad. We ate leftover pie for weeks.

And then, because I am a crazy person, the next weekend, I went to London and did it all again.

The Menu:

Apéro
Pigs in a Blanket
Baked Brie

The Meal
Rotisserie Chickens
Stuffing
Cranberry Sauce
Make-Ahead Thanksgiving Gravy
Mashed Potatoes
Creamy Herbed Potatoes
Corn Muffins
Sweet Potato Biscuits

Dessert
Pumpkin Pie
Sour Cream Crumble Top Apple Pie
Pecan Pie
Sweet Potato Pecan Pie
(all with Vodka Pie Crust)

Tarte Tatin

November 9, 2009

Agur, San Sebastian

Filed under: Uncategorized — emiglia @ 8:29 am

As someone who often uses too many complicated words to say very little, I find it oddly fitting that the only thing I can think of to say today is agur.

Agur to Parque Cristina-Enea, which I walked through every day on my way to school and yet never paid a second glance.


Agur to things I never really understood, like gastronomic societies, so private in their membership, but so public in their love of food and fun, who dance in their front yard and don’t care who takes pictures.

Agur to surfing, my new favorite thing, and agur to Mikel, but especially to Dany, who was with me the whole way.

Agur to walks around a new city, to falling in love again and again.

Agur to the people who made it special, but most of all, to the realization that I still know how to be alone.


Agur to gathering up a couple of friends, to climbing fences, climbing walls and climbing rocks to get to the perfect place to watch the sun set from Gros.

Agur to perfect sunsets.

September 29, 2009

Pet Peeves

Filed under: Uncategorized — emiglia @ 4:14 pm

People who stand on the left side of escalators.

Slow internet.

No internet.

Not having to pee the entire time you’re walking home and then suddenly desperately having to pee and not being able to find your keys.

People who walk too slowly and don’t pick a side of the sidewalk.

Boogie boarders stealing waves.

Improper use of homonyms, semicolons, commas, colons and em dashes by native English speakers.

Children screaming.

Children screaming early in the morning.

Children screaming early in the morning on the weekends when you do not feel you have the authority to tell the aforementioned children to put a sock in it.

Poor quality pots that get scalded on the bottom from being cooked at a medium temperature.

My last pen running out of ink just as I remember what I wanted to say.

People who put the empty milk continer back in the refrigerator.

People whose relaxed mouth position is opened.

My hands getting stuck in the sleeves of a long-sleeved wetsuit.

Running out of salt and not noticing until it’s too late.

Food pictures that do not reflect the deliciousnss of the food.

I am not a photographer. I never was a photographer. I’m a writer: always have been, always will be. However, I know all too well the importance of pictures to their accompanying food articles–heck, I just admitted that I’m a writer and know nothing about photography, and yet I find myself clicking past certain posts just because they don’t have pictures to go wth them. I usually can talk myself into going back and discovering what are sure to be delicious things and witty stories I’ve missed, but there’s just something enticing and wonderfully expectant about starting off a recipe or a story with a great picture.

So I understand if you click past this post: my dinnertime here, like with most Spaniards, is around 9 or 10, and I don’t have much natural light anyway in the ever-rainy Basque region (although the last two days have been bright and sunny and a wonderful 25 degrees–you know that life is good when you spend a Tuesday afternoon in late September lying in the sun with a San Miguel in your hand and the perfect view of surfers in front of you.)

I think what I like most about the weather here is that the inspiration for fall food is hitting me much later than it usually does–don’t get me wrong: I love pumpkin and squash, and there will come a time for all things orange, but last year, I let the pumpkin in a bit too early and ignored the last of the summer produce, and I wouldn’t want to do that again.

This is perfect for after a day at the beach, when you want something light and easy to make but still filling–something that feels like a meal instead of my favorite “big bowl of vegetables.” It’s the kind of salad I remember eating in a restaurant in Rome–the kind of salad I remember my father saying he could eat for every meal of his life.

Funny: I kind of feel the same way.

Salade Composée with Shallot Vinaigrette
1 shallot, minced
1 tsp. good French mustard
2 tbsp. cider vinegar
4 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1/4 tsp. black pepper
1/2 tsp. herbes de provence
1/2 tsp. salt

500 g. haricots verts or string beans, sliced into bite sized pieces along the diagonal
8 new potatoes, quartered
3 eggs
3 oz. swiss or emmental cheese, diced
10 cherry tomatoes, halved

Combine the shallot, mustard and vinegar in the bottom of a large bowl with a fork. Stream in the olive oil, whisking all the time, and continue to whisk until emulsified. Add the pepper, salt and herbes de Provence. Set aside.

Meanwhile, put two pots of water on the stovetop to boil. Drop the new potatoes into one while the water is still cold and bring to a boil. Cook about 20 minutes (from the time the potatoes are added to the water) until a fork slides in and out easily. (This may take less time: check after 15.) When the other pot of water comes to a boil, add the green beans and cook until crisp-tender: about 5 minutes.

Rinse the cooked potatoes briefly in cold water (you want them warm but not steaming) and put them into the bowl with the dressing. Toss to coat.

Shock the cooked string beans in cold water so that they retain their color, and add them to the bowl with the potatoes.

Place a new pot with about 3 inches of cold water in the bottom on the stovetop. Add the eggs and bring to a boil, uncovered. When the water boils, remove the pot from the heat and cover for seven to twelve minutes (seven will result in creamy, slightly underdone yolks, twelve in perfectly set ones. I like seven or eight, but it’s a personal preference).

Place the cooked eggs in cold water and rinse until completely cooled. Peel and halve them.

Add the tomatoes and cheese to the bowl and toss all the ingredients together so that the dressing is evenly distributed. Top with the eggs and serve with warm, crusty bread.

September 23, 2009

Crème Catalane

Filed under: Side Dishes, Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , — emiglia @ 12:49 pm

When life hands you lemons, make lemonade.

I’ve always had a hard time with that proverb, not because I don’t believe it’s true, but because I’ve always had a hard time with the visual nature of proverbs. I know that “when life hands you lemons…” is supposed to make you think of the hard parts of your life and how to change them to make them better, but as for me, I always just think of freshly squeezed lemonade.

I guess it’s the foodie in me.

But I do believe in the essence of the proverb, once I get over my obsession with freshly squeezed lemonade (add a little bit of raspberry, and I’m in heaven.) Although I prefer to think of it as, “when life gives you a botched recipe for crème catalane, use a blowtorch.”

And yes, don’t worry, I do plan to explain myself.

I’ve been combing through my pictures from this summer ever snce I got my new computer, and I found these, of a crème catalane that was saved thanks to Marc’s quick thinking and the fact that he even had a blow torch to begin with. For me, this metaphor runs even more true, perhaps just for the absurdity of it: I’m always the one ready to come up with a half-baked crazy idea out of left-field to solve even the most mundane of problems. Making mountains out of molehills, and all that jazz. (OK, OK, I’m stopping.)

At the end of the day, I just find it more fun: when things aren’t working out for me, instead of making a little change, I overhaul my life: I dye my hair a drastic new color, I pick up a completely new activity, I start going by a new nickname, and, of course, as so many of you on here are bound to be aware of by now, I move: to a new city, but more often, to an entirely new country. It doesn’t work for everyone, but it works for me.

When these crème catalanes didn’t brulée in the oven like the recipe swore they would (I had my doubts from the beginning), I could have just made a lovely caramel sauce for them and be done with it. They would have still been delicious: you can’t go wrong with creamy custard infused with delicate citrus and cinnamon.

Or, I could have trekked all over Perpignan looking for a kitchen torch, only to spy Marc’s heavy duty blowtorch, and have a little bit too much fun bruléeing 20 crème catalanes. Honestly, which one would you prefer?

So when life gives you lemons, go ahead and make lemonade, if you want to.

Or, you could come up with something just a little bit fantastic.

Creme Catalane (serves 6)

Creme catalane is the Catalan version of a simple crème brulée, infused with cinnamon and citrus. If you have a favorite crème brulée recipe already, you can easily add these flavors to your own recipe. If not, here’s how I do it.

1 liter whole milk
zest of 1 lemon
zest of 1 orange
1 cinnamon stick
70 g. flour
8 egg yolks
raw sugar (for bruléed topping)

Place the milk in a heavy-bottomed pot and add the zests and cinnamon. Bring to a simmer and then reduce the heat, stirring every once in awhile. Cook for 15 minutes. Your kitchen should smell incredible.

Combine the flour and egg yolks with a whisk until the yolks have lightened in color and the flour is completely combined.

Enlist a friend for this step or risk being burned: while whisking continuously, pour the milk mixture in one fluid stream into the egg mixture. Return the whole mixture to the pot and place it back over the heat. Whisk continuously until the mixture thickens and resembles thick cream.

Distribute the mixture in ramekins and chill in the fridge for at least three hours.

When ready to serve, remove from the fridge and top with a thin, even layer of raw sugar. Brulée the tops with a kitchen torch or a blowtorch… or really any torch you’ve got lying around the house.

August 2, 2009

Chocolate Mousse

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 9:31 am

Tomato Kumato started as a tiny project, a little ray of sunshine in the midst an otherwise monotonous summer spent waiting tables on Long Island (a summer that, I’ve come to realize, I reference quite often on the aforementioned blog). I started on a whim: I called my roommate, he set me up with a Wordpress account, and now, more than three years later, this blog is still going strong, even if I am sometimes the only one reading what I write.

Every rule has an exception–it’s true of French grammar, and it’s true of my “sometimes,” which does not in any way apply to summertime, when this blog, my tiny project, develops a second role: that of chronicling our adventures here in Paziols. The blog becomes intertwined with the program here, and the girls are surprised to learn that the blog existed before Paziols, that I continue to post recipes even after summer is over and I have moved on to somewhere new.

I won’t lie: sometimes it’s a pain. I’ve noticed that many of you have dropped off the radar for the summer, leaving your readers with the blogger equivalent of a “gone fishing” notice on your homepage. Many of my favorite blogs won’t start updating again until it’s time to talk about pie and pumpkin once more, and I myself have been tempted to do the same thing: it’s not as though we haven’t been eating well here in Paziols–quite the contrary, actually, as I have been having the time of my life experimenting with French recipes from all over this diverse country to see what flies with discerning American palates. But summertime, for me, has traditionally been the time of year when I close my laptop to all writing–not just blogging (if you follow my fiction writing, you’ll notice that updates there have been even more scarce). The last thing I want to do at the end of a long day, when I’m sticky with sweat and bug spray and my shoulders ache from one too many jumps off the rope swing at the Pachaire, is to sit down in front of my computer and comb through endless photos and come up with something marginally clever to say.

Blogging becomes, not a fun way to relax, but a chore, and I hate when things I love become a chore. So if you haven’t seen much of me around the blogosphere, it’s because I’ve been waiting: waiting for inspiration to creep up on me instead of sitting in front of photos of cassoulet and gratin and waiting, waiting, waiting for the words to spill out of me, like they were so eager to do when I was wrapped up in a quilt all winter in Paris.

I logged on today with good intentions: I planned, as I have been planning for several days, to chronicle our recent experience at the moulin de Cucugnan, where we learned to make flour, made bread, ate incredible pasta prepared by the miller himself, and were gifted some fairly incredible chocolate chip cookies. It has been a post awaited and expected by the people who read this blog regularly, and I don’t want to let down my readers.

But when I sat down today to write, I realized it wasn’t going to happen. I have yet to organize my thoughts, yet to decide exactly what it is I want to say. And even if this blog is no longer purely mine, even if it has become something different, changed and morphed by the expectations and desires of others, it is still, first and foremost, my canvas, and I refuse to compromise the quality of it by writing something that I have yet to wrap my head around.

Instead, I will offer you something pure and simple today–a way to ease myself back into something I love. Chocolate mousse is a quintessential French dessert, a classic combination of eggs, chocolate and cream. As in much of French cuisine, it is in the preparation, not the ingredients, that this dessert becomes what it is, and as I watched the girls carefully bring the 20 some-odd eggwhites to soft peaks (by hand), I remembered what it was like, for me, when this blog was just a baby, just a little something I did to pass the time.

Chocolate Mousse (serves 20-some-odd people)

1.25 kilos good-quality dark chocolate
50 centiliters crème fraîche
20 eggs

Chop the chocolate into chunks, and melt slowly over a double boiler, stirring constantly. When the chocolate is completely melted, stir in the crème fraîche. Leave the mixture in the double boiler, with the heat turned off, while you prepare the eggs.

Carefully separate the egg whites from the yolks. In a clean metal or glass bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form.

Beat the yolks and combine them with the chocolate. Fold this mixture carefully into the egg whites. Chill several hours before serving with fromage frais or whipped cream.

July 27, 2009

Cargolade

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , — emiglia @ 12:53 pm

One of the ados (teenagers) from the first session (you know who you are…) made fun of me once for writing the phrase “I used to think I was a city girl…” on this very blog. At the time, I agreed that it may have been overkill for the subject I was writing about, but today, I have to readdress it.

Yes: last time I was being overly poetic just for the sake of it. You got me. But this time, I’m serious: I think I’ve become a true bumpkin.

Alex and I were talking on the phone recently: we haven’t had time to talk at all for the past two weeks, and so we were catching up, when slowly, I started to realize that all of my stories were starting to sound the same…

Les manouches went fishing and caught a fish. I gutted it on the kitchen table… it bled everywhere. We barbecued it and ate it for dinner. It was awesome!”

“Did you know that manouche #1’s family kills a pig every year and butchers it together? Isn’t that awesome?”

“We found wild mint growing at the fontaine des eaux… I think I’m gonna cook with it. How awesome is that?”

“We caught a snail and named him Phillippe. We’re keeping him in a box on the terrace and feeding him salad. I think we’re gonna eat him with the neighbors. Isn’t that awesome?”

I’m not ready to go back to Paris… not even close. I find myself hanging on to every day we still have here, trying to slow everything down, which, as we all know, is impossible.

Instead, I find myself standing somewhere I never could have imagined, wondering how all the choices I made, all my years of being a city girl, could have led to this.

We did end up grilling and eating escargots with the neighbors, although Phillippe–le petit malin–managed to escape just before we headed next door for the 100-odd Catalan snails they were preparing.

It was the girls’ last night before heading home, and nothing could have prepared them for what they would witness and eventually taste–nothing like escargots bourguignons, the ones dripping in a buttery, herby sauce that you sop up with baguette. These snails were tiny and grey and prepared before our eyes on a grill that is purchased–or made by hand, as this one was–only in the region.

The escargots had the membrane that covers the meat deftly removed by our neighbor, and were then seasoned (alive) with a mixture of salt, pepper and piment (hot pepper) that caused them to mousse before our very eyes.

How awesome is that?

We next watched as our other neighbor prepared them à l’ancienne, grilling them over an open fire and drizzling them with flaming lard.

For those of you who didn’t catch that… I’m going to reiterate: flaming. Lard.

Awesome.

A third neighbor taught us the proper way to eat cargolade, as the dish is called: prepare a piece of bread slathered generously with aoli, and then use a small fork to remove the snail from its shell. To be enjoyed with friends as close as family, homemade Muscat, jokes, stories of pig butchering complete with demonstrative hand gestures and colorful adjectives, and quiet epiphanies when you realize that the place you thought was your home is now the place furthest from it.

July 22, 2009

Crepes

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — emiglia @ 6:39 pm

I was walking to the post office this morning when I realized it.

I listened to my flip-flops flip-flopping on the tarmac. I relished the fact that I could stroll straight down the middle of the street, and I completely avoided the sidewalks. I was glad to be first in line (the only person in line) once I reached the familiar yellow-and-blue building, and I didn’t mind having to wait while the woman working chatted on the phone before selling me my stamps.

The girls left yesterday, piled into the cars at four in the morning–that surreal time of day where nothing seems alive. We rode and rode and rode–the route familiar but the light making it all seem wrong and strange, which it was: saying goodbye after three short weeks left a knot in everyone’s stomach and tears on the faces of a few.

Too quickly, we ushered the girls through the airport, ate one last sandwich together and collected the tinfoil wrappers, wiped away the last few tears, and we led them through to the gate. With hardly a fanfare, they were gone, heading one by one up the escalators, one last joke as they waved like old-fashioned ladies on trains pulling out of the station.

For them, the journey continued: lasted hours as they waited excitedly to reach home. But for us, that was the end. We had more people to pick up, a drive back home to make, the next session to consider.

It’s strange to be here without them… strange to think that it was just a few days ago that we were all sitting here and laughing and talking together. Strange to think that we’ll never all be here together again in the same way: these three weeks will never be recreated again.

I thought that this would make Paziols a hard place to be. I thought that without the spirit of the girls, without the constant chatter, it would fade away and no longer be a home for me.

It’s different: that much is sure. But I feel a kinship with the people of this town that it’s taken me three years to find. They may still not know me by name, but I know that they know who I am: they recognize me as what I have recognized being: some odd combination of French and American–not one of the screaming teenagers who invades every year, but definitely not one of the locals or even one of the French counselors.

I realized it today as I walked down the street, as I smelled corks and wine wafting out of the local winery–a heady scent in the humidity of the morning without wind. I want to live here all the time.

I want to live here as more than just a tourist. I want to see the vendonges in the fall and the winters I hear rumors of–the Tramontagne wind confining everyone indoors in front of bowls of cassoulet–but have never witnessed myself. I want to become part of the life here, and not just a part of the summers.

Summers will always be something special here in Paziols: barbecues and grillades under the stars, afternoons spent outside the café or walking to the Prade. Summer will always be the Saturday pizza truck, evenings spent sitting out on the terrace. Summer will always be soirée crêpes, where everyone gets a turn to faire sauter une crêpe, even if half of them end up on the floor.

Summers will always be about Americans in Paziols: we’ve invaded and they’ve welcomed us, and we’re not going anywhere. But now, between sessions, I’ve caught a glimpse of what life would be like here all the time, and all I can think of is how much I’d like to live here always… with maybe a jaunt to Spain every once in awhile if the wind gets too chilly.

Crêpes (makes 20 crêpes)

4 eggs
1.5 cups milk
2 cups flour
2 Tbsp. melted butter
1 tsp. salt
sunflower oil


Mix all ingredients except the sunflower oil in a bowl. Whisk for 10 minutes. Cover and allow to rest for at least an hour.

Remove the batter from the fridge. Heat a crêpe pan or shallow nonstick skillet and use paper towel to apply a thin layer of oil. Pour a ladleful of batter into the pan and turn the pan to spread. Flip the crêpe when golden and allow to brown on the other side.

Taste the first crêpe: this is traditionally for the cook and helps to gauge whether you need to adjust your batter measurements.



May 26, 2009

Rosé and Fruit Salad

Filed under: Side Dishes, Uncategorized — Tags: , , , — emiglia @ 10:55 am

I used to hate picnics.

I also used to hate lunch in general, but that’s neither here nor there.

My opposition to picnics didn’t have anything to do with the outdoor setting, the paper plates or the gooey marshmallow roasting, all of which would have usually been problematic for me. I was one of those super-neat kids (my mother–bless her heart–managed to have a family of four kids who actually liked being clean and were uncomfortable when other kids misbehaved in our general vicinity). However, when it came to picnics, I made an exception, and I was perfectly happy to eat in the grass with the rest of the kids. What bothered me was what was served: hot dogs (still won’t go near them), mayonnaisey potato salad, and the worst: that ubiquitous bowl of fruit salad.

I didn’t have a problem with fruit salad as a concept, not really. My mother made fruit plates all the time, and I devoured them without a problem. What bothered me, now that I think about it, was the mix of unseasonal foods in one big bowl: berries, grapes, citrus, apples, bananas… all those things had no business being put together, especially not with some sort of sauce that came from a canned intruder, and I wouldn’t eat it.

As I got older, I got less picky, and often fruit salad was the only healthy option available at this or that picnic or barbecue, and so I started to eat it. Not happily, but I’d eat it. Soon enough, I started to realize that there were certain combinations I liked: blueberries, raspberries and strawberries or grapefruit, oranges and tangerines. Things that went together made sense on my palate: it was the mix of unfriendly bedfellows that made my nose wrinkle.

So when I set about creating my own fruit salad, I knew that I would be mixing seasonal fruits together, fruits that naturally complemented each other, instead of grabbing a little bit of everything and putting it in a bowl. I mixed strawberries and peaches together: not too many varieties, but just enough. Since it’s a little bit early in the season, I added a bit of sugar, but you could just as easily leave that out. I also through in some rosé from the bottle we didn’t quite finish last night: Alex and I open a bottle of wine on most nights, but we usually have a few inches left at the bottom. Sometimes we finish it the following night, but more often than not, I cooked with it. This rosé, with its strawberry undertones, made the perfect acidic complement to the salad. If you don’t have any, feel free to use a bit of lemon or lime juice and an extra teaspoon of sugar.

This salad, with maybe a few blackberries or raspberries, will be my fallback fruit salad this summer… and next to one of those typical “everybody in the pool” salads, I think it will come out as the winner.

Rosé and Fruit Salad

400 g. (14 oz.) strawberries, hulled and quartered
3 small peaches, sliced in eighths
1 Tbsp. sugar
3 Tbsp. rosé wine
2-5 basil leaves, chiffonade, or 1 tsp. dried basil

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl, except for the basil, if using fresh. (If using dried, feel free to add it at the beginning.)

Allow the salad to sit for five minutes to let the flavors blend. Add the fresh basil just before serving.

May 14, 2009

Daring Cooks

Filed under: Uncategorized — emiglia @ 6:55 am

I have been a bad blogger.

Lots of things have happened recently: I got a new job, found out that I’m moving (temporarily), and this weekend I ended up making a surprise visit to the suburbs. All in all, not a lot of time for cooking, much less blogging.

I joined Daring Cooks, the new baby sister of the famous Daring Bakers group, and I have been really excited about the first challenge for weeks. Sadly, for reasons beyond my control, I haven’t gotten to make it… but I am completely devoted to completing the challenge… tomorrow.

Please don’t hate me for being late to the party! I promise to be back on track starting with that post, which you can all look forward to tomorrow evening (French time.)

April 11, 2009

I’m Back!

Filed under: Uncategorized — emiglia @ 5:37 am

I know I’ve kind of fallen off the face of the Earth, but I have an explanation: my aunt was here! We walked all over Paris for a week. My legs are tired, my feet are tired… but it was so much fun!

If you want to read about our walks in Paris, feel free to check out my posts on my other blog, Bordeaux and Palmiers.

I’m getting my posts pulled together over here, so until tomorrow, I’m afraid I’m going to have to leave you with just a peek at what’s in store…

A demain!

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