Paris’ Best Steak-Frites at Le Severo

For years, I’ve had a tradition of taking the Country Boy to a restaurant for his birthday, and since at heart, he is a simple man with simple tastes, I always found myself doing some version of the same Google search about a month before March 18th: “best steak-frites in Paris.”

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Steak-frites (also known as a steak with French fries) can definitely be ho-hum, when steak-frites is good, it’s a revelation. I’ve had a few excellent ones, but none as simply good as that at Le Severo (emphasis on both simple and good).

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And for good reason. The restaurant is owned by a former butcher, William Bernet, who may be one of the only French chefs to understand the benefit of a truly aged steak. The meat is flavorful and perfectly seared, so much so that it would only be bogged down by condiments and garnishes.

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While the meat is the star of this menu, I beg of you: don’t skip the appetizers. Reasonably priced and simple, they might include seasonal heirloom tomatoes, simple yet excellent charcuterie, or my personal favorite, boudin noir: blood pudding with just a bit of apple compote to cut through the richness.

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The desserts continue in the same vein: traditional, simple, and well-executed, from the clafoutis to the chocolate mousse to the crème caramel.

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As far as I’m concerned, that’s more than enough reasons to pay this restaurant a visit, but if you need another, consider this: Le Severo is closed on weekends. And if they have enough reservations on weeknights to be turning away Saturday night customers (and they do – be sure to book in advance, especially with a large party), there must be a good reason.

Le Severo – 8, rue des Plantes, 75014