Wednesday Bites: Höst

I don’t often find myself at a restaurant that truly surprises me. I write about food for a living, and in my experience, there are only so many ways to cook an egg or make a salad. Even when I go somewhere great, I’m usually reacting to the quality of the ingredients, like the steak at Le Severo, or to the exceptional execution, like at Frenchie Bar à Vins.

That was before I visited Höst.

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Image care of Höst

I was already falling head over heels with Danish food by the time I made it to Höst. There was a unique play in flavors — combinations of sweet and savory, and always so much freshness and life in even the simplest smorrebrod. But Höst was something else.

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Image care of Höst

Höst managed to combine the hygge of its award-winning Nordic design with incredible, fine dining cuisine– and at reasonable prices (DKK 295 for three courses plus a few little extras).

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Image care of Höst

Each course was exciting and enticing, offering new and intriguing flavor combinations, textures, and colors — even the serving dishes were surprising. A beef dish was served with thin slices of pickled beet over the top that looked like a velvet blanket covering the steak, which was seasoned with a berry jam.

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This terrine was served with not a garnish but a veritable pile of fresh dill on top, and it married soft and crisp textures perfectly.

Perhaps my favorite dish — though I was nearly too full to eat it — was a blueberry ice cream served with a cheese topping: two flavors I never would have thought to combine, and yet the marriage was sensational.

When I was still in Copenhagen, I bought a Scandinavian cookbook. While I don’t imagine I’ll be able to live up to the experience I discovered at Höst, but I hope to recreate at least some of the flavors at home.

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