It’s an unfortunate reality that the closer you are to a major monument in Paris, the worse the food tends to be. But fear not! There are a few gems within spitting distance of can’t-miss sites in Paris – and as of right now, they’re no longer a secret.
For the next installment in this series, I’m taking a look at the picturesque neighborhood of Montmartre – where there are unfortunately more than a handful of spots that cater just to tourists. To help you avoid high prices and meh food, here are my favorites in and around Montmartre.
Quick and Easy/Cheap Eats
Montmartre is home to a surprising concentration of fantastic bakeries: there’s Le Grenier à Pain (38 Rue des Abbesses), a former winner of the best tradition in Paris contest, as well as Gontran Cherrier (22 rue Caulaincourt) whose innovative breads (like black baguettes flavored with squid ink) will turn many an eye. I also love Gilles Marchal (9 Rue Ravignan) for his tasty viennoiseries (including the pain au raisin depicted above).
You can easily assemble a tasty picnic by sourcing bread at one of these locales and supplementing it with cheese from Fromagerie Lepic (20 Rue Lepic), wine from Cave des Abbesses (43 Rue des Abbesses) and eclairs from L’Eclair de Génie (31 Rue Lepic). Enjoy all of it from the steps of Sacré Coeur basilica or the park near Abbesses métro where you can see “I love you” written on the wall in over a hundred languages.
Mid-Range
Mid-range options in Montmartre run the gamut from simple wine and cheese pairings at Cave des Abbesses (43 Rue des Abbesses) to fondue (served with wine in baby bottles) at Le Refuge des Fondus (17 Rue des Trois Frères). Le Moulin de la Galette (83 Rue Lepic) features French classics in a dining room steeped in history, below one of the neighborhood’s last remaining windmills, and if you’re willing to walk a bit out of your way, Le Maquis (53, rue des Cloys) is redefining the modern bistro and doing a pretty fine job of it at that.
That said, my favorite has to be Jeanne B. (61, rue Lepic), a rôtisserie featuring an excellent selection of natural wines: it’s my go-to for a delicious lunch any time I’m in this neighborhood.
High End
Higher-end spots in Montmartre include Le Coq Rico (98 Rue Lepic), a “bistro of beautiful birds” whose menu features not just chicken but duck, guinea fowl, and more. Chef Antoine Westermann is a stickler for sustainably raised poultry, and his attention to detail shows. Meanwhile, Le Chamarré Montmartre (52 Rue Lamarck) boasts a beautiful terrace where you can enjoy a seafood-focused menu inspired by an effortless fusion of island flavors.
Off the Butte
If you’re willing to wander a bit further, a host of delicious eats await you around Montmartre. Buvette (28 Rue Henry Monnier) is a favorite for simple, delicious, all-day dining, and La Compagnie du Café (19 Rue Notre Dame de Lorette) holds the title for my favorite Buddha bowl in Paris. Le Bon Georges (45 Rue Saint-Georges) is one of the best examples of a high-quality, traditional French bistro I’ve had the pleasure of dining at, and Le Bal Café (6 Impasse de la Défense) offers neo-British cuisine in a beautiful setting that also features a cinema, art exhibits, and more.
Did I miss any of your favorite Montmartre spots? Let me know in the comments!