Most people in Paris stick fairly resolutely to their bank, be it Left or Right. In that, I’m an anomaly: I’ve always lived on the Left Bank, but more and more, I find myself spending time on the Right.
This is, of course, in no small part due to the fact that the Right Bank has (somewhat) recently become home to a plethora of fantastic dining establishments, and I pretty much want to visit them all. These restaurants, mainly local product-driven, usually sport a natural wine list to die for. When compared with the heartier bistro fare served in many Left Bank spots, Right Bank restaurants tend to serve lighter, more innovative, and more intriguing food.
Then, Sauvage appeared on the scene.
Sauvage is a relatively new spot (it only opened a month ago), but it actually has a longer link to natural wines. The Sauvage Cave is a wine shop that has been open in the neighborhood for several years, but it wasn’t until the owner encountered Vincent Glaymann, formerly of the Clown Bar, that the restaurant was opened.
Today, Sauvage boasts two dining rooms: a more traditional one and this one, which tends towards the shared-small-plates vibe so popular across the river.
On the day I visited, the ever-changing menu featured this super fresh, super unique combination of tender raw tuna, purple basil, and fresh cherries.
A pairing of smoked salmon fillet, cucumber, and fresh raw peas was slightly less surprising, but no less delicious.
This classic liver terrine with pickled shallots made for a safer choice, but it was quite good as well.
The absolute winner in my book, though, was a cold cantaloupe soup with fresh cow’s milk faisselle cheese and lovage. Aromatic and floral, it was absolutely perfect.
The wine list was no less perfect: I sampled both a skin-contact orange Gewurztraminer from Alsace and a skin-contact white from Marc Barriot, aka one of my favorite people I’ve never met. Both were, of course, superb.
The Country Boy, meanwhile, ended up with a lovely melon de Bourgogne from the Loire.
While it was far too hot to drink anything more substantial, Vincent really knows his stuff. We chatted at length about natural wines that would live up to the American desire for “big red wines,” and while we both agreed we prefer the lighter ones, it was lovely to get a few suggestions in my pocket for next time.
As for how this Left Bank neighborhood will take to a decidedly Right Bank establishment, only time will tell. Vincent shared that he’s already welcomed regulars of the more classic bistro that used to stand here, who were more than happy to perch on a stool and sample some of the shared small plates here.
I can only hope – mainly for my own sake – that that will continue to be the case…
… especially if this chocolate pudding with rhubarb is still on the menu.
Sauvage – 55, rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006