The problem with visiting so many truly phenomenal seasonal restaurants is that there is a very small window between when I attend and when the dishes that were so seasonally on-the-money are no longer in season, and thus my post starts to feel a bit dated. But in the case of Martin, which is regularly voted “favorite restaurant in Paris” in Emily’s head, I’m going to permit myself this stroll down memory lane, back to April, when my aunt was in town, and we demolished most of the day’s menu over the course of an evening.
(I hope they will forgive the delay.)
Martin’s commitment to seasonality and its simplicity are really what have me recommending it so consistently. All of the ingredients used on the menu, which changes every single night, are sourced from local, sustainable farmers. And there’s no pretension preventing the restaurant from serving them in the best way possible, no matter how simple that may be. If fresh radishes are in season, they’re scrubbed, arranged on a plate, and served with butter and salt. And that’s it.
These fat fresh anchovies were coated in flour and simply fried, served with a light salad.
Roasted Jerusalem artichokes are paired with huge sprigs of dill.
Sometimes pairings get slightly more unusual, like this combo of endives, coriander, and scallops, which I absolutely loved.
Or this shredded beet and horseradish salad with a creamy yogurt base, which became our favorite. There was very undainty scraping of the bottom of the bowl.
To accompany the small plates, a long list of funky natural wines are on offer, by the glass or by the bottle. This choice highlights the same ideals that are so pervasive on the menu: simple, whole, sustainable, natural.
And really, when it comes to a favorite restaurant, that’s all I want.
Martin -Â 24 boulevard du Temple, 75011