Possibly the first team to bring great Mexican food to Paris was Candelaria, a tiny taco shop in the North Marais. I had already been to its after-hours bar, an insider favorite located behind the taco shop itself that’s equal parts dive and speakeasy, but a recent visit was the first time I had the pleasure of trying the food.
Candelaria’s diminutive size translates to its menu: on the day I visited, only a handful of items were on offer, including a lamb taco, a pork tostada, a vegetarian chayote taco, and quesadillas (which sold out in the time it took us to order). Luckily, with a menu that short, everything is fresh and delicious.
We started things off with some freshly fried tortilla chips, served with a house-made salsa and whipped cheese. While the latter was a departure from the guacamole I’m used to, it was a delicious pair (and was particularly tasty when paired with hot sauce).
Next up, we dug into some tacos. My favorite was the lamb taco depicted up top, which was perfectly cooked and rich in flavor.
I also sampled the chayote taco, which was equally tasty. The only issue across the board? A disturbing lack of salt. This was easily remedied by the hot sauces, but as someone who’s pretty salt-averse to begin with, I wonder if others would need even more.
All in all, Candelaria offers exactly what I’ve sought for so long in Paris: simple, inexpensive tacos. One is the perfect size for a snack, but it would be tough to stop there.
Candelaria – 52 Rue de Saintonge, 75003