Great bistros are kind of an oxymoron, these days, in Paris. Sure, there are a few I love, but by and large, exciting new restaurants in the capital tend to be more of the innovative-modern-small-plates type, whereas bistros are old, stodgy, and don’t serve fantastic food.
So when an exception surfaces, I feel it’s only my duty to call attention to it. Le Chardenoux is one of those places.
This bistro was recently revisited by none other than French celebrity chef Cyril Lignac, often referred to as France’s Jamie Oliver. With his broad smile and lilting southern accent, Lignac reconnected many French people with the food of their varied regions via his television programs, and his restaurants bring the flavors of his travels – across France, but also across the world – to Paris.
Le Chardenoux is located in a neighborhood already doted with several Lignac establishments, including his bakery, home to my favorite croissant. The building is a distinguished brasserie, the kind one associates with Paris’ heyday and that, indeed, has been a neighborhood staple since 1908. And while the décor’s fresh look harkens back to this illustrious history, the food is modern and fresh.
The focus, here, is on seafood, something that Paris does with varying quality and nearly always with a hefty pricetag. I loved this crab galette, already a popular choice from Lignac’s Left Bank restaurant, combining a crisp base, fresh crab, creamy avocado, and a touch of Madras curry.
This squid appetizer with chorizo and Espelette pepper was diminutive in size, perhaps, but not in flavor.
Some mains are dressed to impress, like this salmon with Thai broth and cockles.
Others illustrate how simplicity can easily reign supreme, like these perfectly cooked sole gougons with eggplant tempura.
Le Chardenoux is a place where any diner will feel comfortable: the food stays in its lane (and in its time-tested category of appetizer, main, dessert). Folks with a less adventurous palate will easily find something delicious to enjoy (including a house burger), while those who err more towards raw and marinated carpaccios and tartares will not be disappointed.
Oh, and of course one must not forget that Lignac is not only a master of the savory, but of the sweet. His desserts are just as inspired, and this chestnut pavlova with lime sorbet made a convert even of this turophile.
Le Chardenoux – 1 Rue Jules Vallès, 75011