On paper, Au Petit Panisse looks a lot like several of my favorite new restaurants in Paris: innovative, seasonal bistro food; ever-changing menu; great natural wine list. But Au Petit Panisse does boast a few unique attributes that I’m a particularly big fan of.
First and foremost is ambiance: Au Petit Panisse plays right into the stereotypical French bistro feel, and I am here for it. Sidewalk tables with rattan chairs, old-school ceramic tiles, wood paneling, and a zinc bar unite to give you that old school Parisian charm.
Folks who like getting their own plate will also be pleased to learn that Au Petit Panisse’s does not cater to the contemporary “shared plates” mentality, with a menu boasting very clear delineations among appetizer, main, and dessert (a menu, by the way, that the staff will plop in the street so you can peruse as you sip your apéritif – so very thoughtful).
That said, the staff is very happy for guests to share a variety of dishes, as my dining companion and I did on our most recent visit.
We shared two appetizers to start, including this pressé d’agneau. A sort of terrine made from slow-cooked lamb shoulder seasoned with cinnamon, this dish was fresh and perfectly textured, though it was a bit lacking in salt. The beetroot tossed with port reduction were the perfect, slightly sweet, earthy accompaniment to bring out the best in the lamb, and I loved the showering of chives over the top.
Seeing as it is the season for them, we couldn’t very well say no to this white asparagus dish, sprinkled with pistachios and a generous dose of smoked scamorza cheese. The cheese got a bit lost in this dish, in large part due to a delicious honey-mustard-esque hollandaise hiding beneath the asparagus. I’m not complaining: we wiped this plate clean with the absolutely delicious artisan bread that was served alongside it.
For our main, we split the farm-raised chicken breast with pleurote mushrooms. Full disclosure: chicken is not usually something I order on any given menu. But my friend noticed it, and I agreed to go for it, and much like when Little Sister convinced me to order fish in restaurants, I think my life has changed. The difference between fine chicken and great chicken is immense, and the juicy, flavorful chicken breast we split fell decidedly into the latter category.
For dessert, we split a molten chocolate cake that came with a sprinkling of Maldon salt and Espelette pepper. And while I distinctly remember telling my friend, “If we go for the chocolate dessert, I’ll only want one bite…”
… it is entirely possible I ate two.
Au Petit Panisse is an absolute gem that gets extra bonus points for being open on Mondays. I’m decidedly a fan.
Au Petit Panisse - 35 Rue de Montreuil, 75011