Le Rigmarole Lives Up to the Hype

Le Rigmarole has been on my list of Parisian tables to try for a long time. Recommended by the likes of David Lebovitz, Meg Zimbeck, and more, this restaurant is helmed by Robert Compagnon and Jessica Yang, whose international experience, compounded with their reliance on a Japanese binchotan, create the deft, wholly surprising result at this 11th arrondissement spot.

Following the instructions of diners I admire, we opted to partake in the team’s tasting menu on our visit, which, as I understand it, almost always begins with Yang’s house-fermented pickles. On the night of our visit, we were served carrot, beet, and radish – the latter were resolutely my favorite, and I may not have been alone: later guests were given cabbage instead.

Of course, this is a theme of the restaurant: a menu that caters as much to what the chefs want to cook as to what diners want to eat.

We gave the team carte blanche to surprise us and were served a plate of battered and fried spring onions, which we paired with a glass of dry Muscadet (and the pickles, which, we were told, could either be eaten on their own or with the courses that followed).

I loved the slight hint of spice here, which turned out to be a simple dusting of Espelette pepper.

Next up, we sampled a black mullet crudo with leche de tigre. Our waitress (who also proved to be a talented sommelière) let us know that the crudo was assembled in the dish to ensure that it didn’t over-cure in the acidic liquid (which I slurped up with a spoon when the tender fish was all gone).

Next, we moved onto a dish of ultra-tender halibut served on coco beans. The dish was buttery and rich and meaty and – in keeping with a theme I noticed throughout the menu – seasoned with salt in a way that suited my occasionally-over-salt-sensitive palate perfectly.

A series of the skewers the restaurant is so famous for followed: these chicken skewers, made with the tender meat from just under the wing, were cooked just enough to achieve the perfect texture. Seasoned with sesame oil and fresh scallion, they were a delicious, light treat.

This plate is in contention for my favorite of the night: charred zucchini spears smeared in a smoky, slightly sweet mayonnaise seasoned with cod roe.

Next up: a custardy steamed egg.

Perfectly balanced, light, and creamy, this was the ideal dish to enjoy halfway through this tasting menu to keep it from becoming overpowering (or overly heavy).

My apologies for the underwhelming photo of these butterflied chicken hearts, which were so tempting we dove right in.

The next dish displaced the zucchini and quickly became my favorite of the night: a freshly made pasta with savory bottarga. Buttery and smoky with a slight chile heat, this dish was exquisite.

Next up, a simple but expertly rendered grilled chile pepper that blasted to the top of my dining companion’s ranking.

My preference, instead, skewed towards these skewers – our last savory dish of the evening. These chicken meatballs served with a yogurt sauce and a green purée were also paired with house-made paratha cooked in chicken fat.

And yes, that was as tasty a concoction as one would assume.

Dessert was an almond sorbet – light and rich and slightly spicy, thanks to a cilantro oil drizzled over the top.

Overall? My impression of le Rigmarole is that of a restaurant that could very well be pretentious, if it wanted to be, but isn’t. Instead, it’s impressive yet approachable, creative but also homey and fun.

And seeing as the tasting menu always changes, I’ll certainly be back: to sit at the bar, to sip the Canadian sommelière’s fantastic recommendations, and to see what the team is up to next.

Le Rigmarole Р10 Rue du Grand Prieur̩, 75011