Strasbourg – and Alsace in general – is better known for hearty winter food than light, estival plates. But at Botaniste, a contemporary vibe reigns, with a menu filled with lighter, plant-based fare.
On a recent trip, we forewent the typical three-course menu, opting instead for a combination of appetizers and small plates, paired with cocktails and an apparently elusive bottle of natural Auxerrois I fell head-over-heels for and hope to find again soon.
Dishes on the bar snacks menu are governed by simplicity: these lentil falafel served with a yogurt sauce were unfortunately wanting of a bit of salt, chile, or both.
This sumac-dusted burrata, on the other hand, was pitch-perfect, with giant fresh peas just barely blanched and therefore still boasting a bit of a bite. A phenomenal olive oil was drizzled alongside and lent even more flavor to each and every bite.
Moving on to appetizers, things got a bit more elaborate. This sheet of berry gelatin covered a gorgeous trout tartare with cucumber, fennel, dill, and redcurrant.
Gorgeous.
The winner of the night was this dish of tomatoes and buttermilk with mustard and basil. The tomatoes were bright and sweet; the buttermilk offered the perfect creamy counterpart. But the sleeper here was that basil: real Genoese basil that reminds me that I’m not lying when I tell people here that Marseille basil just ain’t the same. There’s a fennel note to the French herb that overpowers the pure basil aroma you get in the Italian leaf. This dish was creative and contemporary but also managed to send me back to childhood summers with bruschetta made from fresh, farmstand tomatoes on Long Island.
In lieu of dessert, we opted for a local cheese board. When later we visited a cheese shop in search of local cheese, we were told that Alsace is “poor” in cheese, but what that really means is poor in AOP cheese. There was nothing poor about this selection, with two blues, three different kinds of tomme, a goat, a bloomy-rinded cheese similar to Brie, and of course, stinky Munster, aka, my favorite of the bunch.
For lighter fare in a city usually governed by meat-heavy dishes – and a good selection of natural wines from both near and far – give Botaniste a try.
Botaniste – 3 Rue Thiergarten, 67000 Strasbourg