I have become a bit of a connoisseuse of saucisse-purée, of late. There was the one at Brasserie Rosie, which I wasn’t expecting to be delicious, though it was. There was the one at Brasserie Dubillot, which was pretty good, but paled in comparison to Brasserie Rosie’s. And then there was the big kahuna. Les Arlots. The one that perhaps jump-started the trend, and the one I wasn’t sure could possibly live up to expectations.
Oh, friends, how I love to be wrong.
Les Arlots is a tiny pocketbook of a bistro just steps from Gare du Nord. Blink and you’ll miss it, but you’ll be sorely disappointed if you do!
The chalkboard menu each evening reveals an enticing selection of options that skew carnivorous. Some change with the seasons; others are surefire stalwarts. Either way, a glass of natural wine (and a plate of complimentary saucisson slices) are the perfect accompaniments while you make your choice.
On this visit – my first – I opted for a house-made terrine with apricot chutney. Rich and heady with herbs and aromatics, it was the perfect hearty way to start the meal.
Plant-based diners, be forewarned: The only option for you on my visit was a seasonal asparagus appetizer (though I suppose you could have pulled the ham off the egg-mayo, in a pinch.)
Mains-wise, expect classics, only occasionally with a twist: Beef onglet comes with herb-infused mashed potatoes and gravy; pan-fried sweetbreads are paired with with celery root mousseline and shiitake mushrooms. And the piece de résistance?
That gorgeous sausage, redolent with herbs. That rich, meaty gravy. Those ethereal mashed potatoes. Yes, friends, this is the saucisse-purée others endeavor to be.
I ran out of room before dessert, which skews classic: a cheese plate or chocolate mousse, rice pudding with caramel or faisselle with honey and fruit. I was happy enough to clean my plate and call it a day…
…and of course, bid adieu to the ortolans on the wall. (Did you know that ortolans, being illegal to consume in France, are traditionally enjoyed with a napkin on the head? Fun fact.)
Bottom line: Go eat sausage at les Arlots. You won’t regret it in the slightest.
Les Arlots Р136 Rue du Faubourg Poissonni̬re, 75010