La Taverne De ZHAO has been on my must-try list for a while now, and in all honesty, it’s hard to say exactly why I haven’t made the (7-minute) trek from my home yet. Maybe it’s for this very reason – because it is so close, and it’s so tempting to venture further outside of my local comfort zone. Maybe it’s because they don’t take reservations, and the line always seems so daunting. But whatever the reason, I can finally say I’ve been… and I cannot wait until it’s time to return.
The menu at La Taverne De ZHAO is surprisingly bountiful for such a small spot, with three different types of noodles as well as dumplings, momos, cold appetizers, fried chicken, and rice dishes. But if Instagram has taught me anything, it’s that you go here for the noodles: either the biang biang or the spinach noodles, both of which are made in-house. You can top either noodle with slow-cooked pork or beef or with a vegetarian combo of scrambled egg and slightly sweet tomato sauce. You can also pair the tomato concoction with either the pork or the beef.
The biang biang noodles, also known as belt noodles, are hand-made and super long. You only get two noodles per order, and trust me, that’s more than enough. I ordered them with the classic pork, which was ultra tender and super savory, with loads of warm spices and the slightest chile kick.
The spinach noodles are more copious and super tasty. I actually think I preferred them to the biang biang, despite the former being somewhat of a house specialty. The tomato sauce was nice, but it might have been even nicer with a touch of heat – I’m sure that if we’d asked, the team would have been happy to oblige with some of the house-made chili oil, but on my next visit, I fully intend to get spinach noodles with the classic pork.
The appetizers arrived at nearly the same time as the mains, so let’s call them sides. The seaweed salad was seasoned with dill, shallot, oyster sauce, and the house chili sauce for a dish that was toothsome and absolutely delicious.
The black mushrooms were slightly less flavorful, seasoned with shallot, radish, coriander, and Chinese rice vinegar, but they were still tasty and perfectly cooked.
There are a few desserts, but we’d been completely conquered by the noodles and needed to roll ourselves home. Luckily, it wasn’t very far… and we’ll be back. (Especially now that I’ve realized the best way to navigate the queue is to put your name on the list and grab a drink at the charming wine bar, La Retraite, just up the block. By the time you’ve enjoyed a lovely glass of natural wine and a chat with the staff, they’ve called you to let you know your table is ready!)
La Taverne de ZHAO – 49, rue des Vinaigriers, 75010