I first visited Au Petit Panisse several years ago, at lunchtime, and while in rereading my review now I apparently loved it, for some reason, I didn’t remember it all that fondly. But when I was writing a recent story for Fodor’s about the spots chefs love on their nights off, this one popped up as a favorite of Julia Sedefdjian, who in 2016 became France’s youngest Michelin-starred chef. I knew it was time to give it another look.
There is so much to love about this little bistro, from the attentive service to the cozy dining room. The wine list skews ultra natural, and the menu is short-and-sweet, with just six appetizers and three mains on offer.
We started off by splitting two appetizers: a house made herring tarama with bottarga over the top. I was unfortunately unable to partake in the bread, given my buckwheat allergy, but this was super tasty enjoyed right off a spoon: pleasantly briny without being too salty in the least.
I loved this dish of braised leeks with buttermilk, mussels, and dill. It was topped with nutty Jerusalem artichoke chips, and the buttermilk was scattered with passionfruit seeds, both of which lent a welcome crunch to the dish.
I’m rarely able to pass up a steak tartare, especially not one as intriguing as this. Hand-cut raw beef was seasoned with a host of Italian ingredients from guanciale to anchovy to parmesan, all molded around an egg yolk that oozed sexily onto the plate when pierced. With a rich, briny flavor and just the right amount of salt, this dish was a total winner.
And the generous accompaniment of crash hot potatoes and bitter leaves did not disappoint: Simple and well-done, it was the ideal pair.
We eschewed dessert this time around, but chances are I’ll be back soon – especially seeing as, unlike most Paris restaurants, it’s open every day of the week.
Au Petit Panisse – 35 Rue de Montreuil, 75011