For as wary as I am of hyperbole, flawless is truly the only term I can use to describe the dining experience at this tiny pocket of a bistro. Too bad they’re closing in June. But seeing as this talented team promise they’re soon going to be opening up a new, bigger spot – and hopefully in the neighborhood – I’m giving myself permission to share my experience with you all, in hopes that you manage to get there in the next few weeks before Le Vaillant is no longer.
From the moment I stepped into this 16-seat bistro just off the Canal Saint-Martin, I was in love: with the mismatched glasses, the homey ambiance, the 90s-grooving tunes, and the short-and-sweet chalkboard menu of four appetizers, four mains, a cheese plate, and dessert from Claire Grumellon, who was in the kitchen that evening, though apparently she tag-teams with co-owner Geffrey Valot.
But this place isn’t all about vibes – far from it. The food delivered, beginning with this plate of braised fennel à la grenobloise (8 euros). Tender fennel danced with a buttery grenobloise sauce studded with capers and crispy croutons. There was a welcome kick of acidity from the lemon and fresh herbs that kept it from feeling in any way stodgy. A truly delicious dish of simple, seasonal ingredients perfect for the end of winter. (Is winter ending any time soon?)
Egg-mayo seems to be a staple at Le Vaillant, if Instagram is to be believed. The iteration on the menu on our visit was paired with smoked herring (8 euro), which appeared not just as a garnish atop each perfectly cooked egg half but also seemed to be infused into the generous mayonnaise. Those buttery croutons offered some welcome texture, and pretty carrot flowers and more fresh herbs lent a pop of color.
I couldn’t help but order the house-made pâté en croute, when I saw that it was studded with both boudin and apples (20 euros). It didn’t disappoint: Perfectly seasoned chunks of pork and black pudding benefitted from the sweetness of just the right dose of apple, all encased in some of the butteriest pastry I’ve ever had the pleasure of trying. That jumble of greens in the corner married baby arugula with tarragon for loads of peppery flavor to offset the richness, and a pile of pickled mustard seeds added just the right spiced, bitter note. I left some of my potatoes behind, but that was mainly so that I could save room for dessert.
But before we get there, can I get a standing ovation for one of the most creative vegetarian mains I’ve seen in a very long time? Massive roasted shallots stuffed with mushroom paste were settled atop a thick Comté cream. (20 euros)
A savory, buttery crumble and even more fresh herbs added texture and nuance to this dish, which was served in the perfect diminutive portion considering its richness. Truly exquisite.
With just two dessert options, one of which was chocolate mousse, it wasn’t hard to pick a slice of this tarte tatin (8 euros) served with vanilla chantilly. Rather than the apple quarters I’m used to in this, perhaps my favorite classic French dessert, this tarte was made with thinly sliced apples burnished to just this side of burned. Richly caramelized with a welcome bitter note to offset the rich sweetness, the only mistake I made was in opting to share a portion.
This adorable bistro is currently just steps from my home, and I fully intend on reaping the benefits for as long as I’m able. I cannot wait to see where this talented couple land next!
Le Vaillant – 159, quai de Valmy, 75010