I’m lucky enough to live incredibly close to Belleville, where a wide array of delicious Asian restaurants offer everything from first-rate pho to exquisite hand-made dumplings. And I’m even luckier that a dear friend and fellow gastronome works in the area, which means we’re able to meet, now and again, to enjoy lunch at one of many countless counters here. Both of our lists of to-try spots are long, but she told me about Naam, a small Thai restaurant taking full advantage of local, seasonal ingredients to revisit classic Thai recipes with outposts in both Paris and Lille, it quickly became a top priority.
In the evenings, Naam offers an à la carte menu of appetizers like chicken laap and mains like shiitake mushroom fried rice or sweet potatoes with satay sauce, all accompanied by a lengthy list of mostly-natural French and Italian wines and a handful of beers. But at lunchtime on Fridays and Saturdays, simplicity reigns: a chalkboard menu of one appetizer, three mains, and one dessert is displayed for your perusal. At just 16 for one course, 18 for two, or 22 for three, this is a real steal, especially considering the quality on offer.
On the day of our visit, the appetizer was a crying tiger-style aubergine dish we both said an enthusiastic oui to – and weren’t we glad. This delightful dish married perfectly tender and sweet fried aubergine tossed with raw and fried shallots, fresh cucumber, and loads of herbs in a sweet, sour, and pungent sauce redolent with a generous quantity of nam pla.
The main was tasty too: a relatively classic green curry marrying chicken breast, celery root, and courgette, served with a generous quantity of rice (a rarity). While nice enough, it frankly paled in comparison to the versions my girlfriend makes at home, but I would have been happy enough with this option had it not been for a bit of dish envy: Across the way, the vegetarian dish called out to us far more appetizingly than it had been described.
I had asked our waiter for more information regarding the dish described on the menu simply as “sautéed broccoli,” to which he added, somewhat mysteriously, “it’s seared. In oil. With the usual spices.” The reality was far more enticing, marrying broccoli with kaffir lime leaves and topped with a perfectly fried egg.
Given the appetizing nature of every dish coming out of the kitchen, whether it was the papaya salad that replaced the app of the day or the pork ribs with red curry, I suppose I’ll just have to trust my gut next time!
Naam – 73, rue de Belleville, 75019