I’m typically nonplussed by the entire idea of a trendy restaurant – so much so that when I see a place popping up all over Instagram, I’m tempted to flee in the other direction. But when I was working on a recent story for the Infatuation on places to eat near the Louvre, I forced myself to check out La Renommée, a “classic French” restaurant that was, at the time, the go-to for influencers. And while I was fully prepared to hate it, I found it both charming and delicious.
La Renommée is, it must be said, not what it appears. While it’s all dressed up in old-school regalia – including the misleading “since 1823” at the top of its menu – it was actually opened in 2023 by the American team behind Au Cheval in Chicago and 4 Charles in New York. The result feels like a subtly American reimagining of what makes a glitzy French brasserie so special: the ambiance and flavors are all French, while the service – and eye-watering prices – are resolutely American.
A side effect of its incredible popularity is that it book up well in advance. I jumped on reservations when they opened (read: a month before my dining date), and while my first attempt secured me a table at the decidedly un-French time of 5pm, the next day, I was able to snag a table for the far more sociable hour of 7pm.
When I stepped into the dining room, it was like stepping into an escapist fantasy of Paris, from the mahogany dining room bedecked with gold-framed paintings and leather banquettes to the jazz blaring over the sound system.
Bread and butter landed on the table before I’d even received a menu – another American-style flourish that softened, if only slightly, the blow of those prices, all of which were appended with the .95 that is so commonplace in my native land. Starters included a sweet pea and asparagus soup (22.95), roast bone marrow (29.95), or escargots (48.95 for the dozen), while mains included a lamb navarin for two (89.95), veal rib steak with roasted garlic (75.95), or sole meuniere (75.95).
We decided to start with a ludicrously priced goat cheese salad (30.95), but, it must be said, we were delighted with the veritable cauldron of greens that appeared within moments, a pacing that showcased yet another way in which the service here is very clearly geared towards its key demographic. The perfectly dressed combination of bitter and sweet greens laced with chives, chervil, and tarragon was topped with a long, slender toast bearing by two generous, melting rounds of Chavignol. The promised truffle vinaigrette was mercifully mild on the truffle, which can often dominate a dish.
For mains, many diners had opted for the (not-so) secret, off-menu double cheeseburger (32.95), but we were far more drawn to the French dishes.
The roast chicken (42.95 for half) was underwhelming. While I’d love to give it the benefit of the doubt (it landed almost immediately after our salad was swept away, and we opted to tackle the steak first…), I suspect that the breast was dry from the get-go (perhaps in an attempt to prioritize the breast meat for Americans?), while the legs were woefully undercooked. The jus was nevertheless tasty, and the side of mâche was a nice, classically French touch.
The New York strip steak (95.95), on the other hand, was absolutely perfect: rare, fatty, and funky thanks to a 42-day dry-age. It was paired with an excellent béarnaise sauce, which it didn’t need but was more than welcome.
Sides are not included with any of the mains, but we decided to order two à la carte. The silky mashed potatoes (14.95) were perfectly fine, though I didn’t taste much by way of the promised nutmeg.
The spring peas à la française (16.95) stole the show, fatty and rich and studded generously with bacon and onions.
For dessert, a single-serve tarte tatin (21.95) caters to American palates in being just a touch too sweet. Luckily, a gravy boat of raw, unsweetened cream more than helped balance it for our now-French palates.
Ultimately, I came away from my experience at La Renommée wholly aware of the subtle American nuances… and wholly aware of how they have made it such a success. While this spot is ultimately probably far too expensive for most French diners, for Americans looking to glimpse France through a well-rendered fantasy lens – and willing to pay the price – it’s definitely worthy of the hype.
La Renommée – 95 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris