Self-taught chefs are not commonplace in France, but Patricia Trâm is changing the conversation. After years of residencies all over the city, she opened Trâm 130: a delightfully creative, Vietnamese-accented bistronomic restaurant in the 11th blending a casual vibe with true excellence in the kitchen. It’s no surprise it became a smash hit.
The menu here breaks from current trends by dividing offerings into real appetizers and mains. On the appetizer side, we could have enjoyed a shallot tarte tatin with shiso vinegar, almond cream, and black garlic gel (14) or clams with garlic- and lemongrass-infused butter, dangmeyon noodles, and house-made chili oil (15). The fresh, technique-driven approach to fusion fare made it tough to narrow things down, so we ultimately settled on two to share, which came one at a time, allowing us the privilege of giving each one our pure focus.
In hindsight, our first plate, a red miso beetroot dish (14), would prove to be my favorite of the night. Beetroot fermented in the style of kimchi was served in a thick, velvety sauce seasoned with port. A few piece of spaetzle sat hither and thither, and segments of loquats were scattered on top.
In the bottom of the dish, three different sauces pooled, and their thicknesses made it easy to try each individually: an arugula purée, a smoked cream, and a beetroot reduction. They married for a symphony of sweet, sour, and savory flavors, and the remnants were absolutely delicious when we used the crusty sourdough to saucer.
I also quite liked our second appetizer. The “ode to the sea” (15) featured a black mullet crudo, amberjack sashimi, and prawns with trout roe. The combination was served with a tamarind-shiso vinaigrette, blood orange, and ponzu gelée.
It’s a cliché in food writing to claim that a dish is “more than the sum of its parts,” and so I shan’t. In fact, I think this dish was successful because each element was so delicious on its own. Each fish was exquisitely prepared, and the combination of seasoned and unseasoned pieces, not to mention the various accoutrements, made this a fun, interactive plate that was perfect for sharing.
Mains included a monkfish Wellington (32) stuffed with chili-spiked prawns and served with aioli and elderflower bisque as well as slow-cooked lamb (34) with wild betel leaves, carrot-tonka purée, black vinegar, and jalapeño.
The vegetarian main featured cold, miso-glazed eggplant (25) served with daikon pickles, fresh herbs, crispy rice seasoned with a touch of green curry, and cabbage leaves for rolling. The individual components were rather muted in flavor, relying on the freshness of both the sweet-and-sour tamarind dipping sauce and the herbs to really bring them to the next level. I loved this mix-and-match approach, not to mention the mastery of flavor and texture, which sealed this dish as my second-favorite of the evening.
The crispy chicken thighs (29) were nearly as delicious: juicy, freshly fried, and served on a plate coated with a sugary, fish sauce-spiked sauce. The spiced tartar sauce and herb salad provided balance for the intensity of both the sweetness and fried flavors. Ultimately, the dishes were in great balance with one another, and I was very glad to have shared.
Dessert, for me, was the only misstep: too odd and not sweet enough. (And if you know me, that’s really saying something.) While I was initially intrigued by the description of potato ice cream (12) served with a kinako mousse and dango and topped with an almond tuile, the balance here felt off. The ice cream itself was delicious, but there wasn’t enough of it as compared to the other components, none of which were sweet enough to render what was ultimately a fairly savory combination a true dessert. The mousse was barely cold enough, and it buried far-too-scant slices of the promised strawberry, preserved lemon, and dango balls. Perhaps the Basque cheesecake (10) or matcha crème brûlée (9) would have been better choices? Other reviewers have raved about the desserts, so I’d take my experience with a grain of salt.
Despite this one hiccough, I can wholeheartedly recommend this creative, well-conceived restaurant that transforms fusion food into something authentic, thrilling, and, most importantly, phenomenally delicious.
Trâm 130 – 130, rue Saint-Maur, 75011