I visited the Broken Arm years ago to dine at the concept store’s lunch counter. It was tasty but a bit pricy, and I hadn’t found a reason to return until Ake, which was once a 10th arrondissement wine bar, announced its popup here. With Swedish chef Linda Granebring at the helm, this “ephemeral restaurant” felt too intriguing to miss.
The menu the night of my visit featured several small plates to share, including soy-cured deviled eggs.
Deviled eggs have been appearing on Paris restaurant menus frequently of late. These ones were marinated in soy and served atop a sweet potato mayonnaise with fried onions, sesame, and fresh herbs. Rich, creamy, and savory, this was definitely one of my favorite dishes of the night.
These grilled artichokes with smoked salt and parsley aioli were tasty as well, but they didn’t boast the same complexity.
The standout of the night were undoubtedly these gnocchi with Brussels sprouts and blue cheese sauce. The gnocchi themselves were rustic, with a creamy texture that nevertheless had a few welcome bits of potato within… more akin to a mashed potato dumpling than gnocchi. The sauce was rich and clung to each bite, and the salty bursts of trout roe and freshness of the herbs finished things off wonderfully.
For dessert, we opted for the “semla,” a Swedish cardamom brioche stuffed with almond paste and topped with rich, thick whipped cream.
This was just sweet enough with a lovely rustic flavor thanks to the skin-on almonds used to make the filling.
There are apparently plans in the works for a more permanent address for Ake soon. Until then, there are still a few spots left at this pop-up, which I cannot recommend more heartily.
Ake at The Broken Arm Р12 Rue Perr̩e, 75003