I typically don’t order steak-frites in restaurants for a number of reasons, chief among them being that I own a Lodge cast iron pan, and I can source great meat from La Ruche Qui Dit Oui. Add to this the fact that I typically find even the most amazing French fries to be middling – perhaps my most divisive culinary opinion, aside from the fact that chocolate is never as delicious as whatever’s inside, and whatever’s inside should really always be peanut butter – and I’m far from the best audience for this emblematic bistro dish.
That said, there are a few spots in Paris – I’m thinking Le Severo and Le Relais de l’Entrecôte – where ordering anything aside from steak-frites would be silly (or impossible, in the case of the latter, where it’s the only thing on the menu). And after a recent lunch, I’m adding another spot to that list.
Au Boeuf Couronné – literally, the crowned beef – is a sprawling restaurant in the 19th arrondissement, not too far from where I live but exocentric enough that it’s a bit of an unsung gem. This area of la Villette used to be known for its abattoirs, and meat-focused restaurants once abounded in the neighborhood. Today, this turn-of-the-century spot is the last of the old guard.
The restaurant underwent a luxury renovation in 2016 and welcomed a three-star hotel in 2017, but it still conserves much of its Old World charm, from the wooden bar to the mosaic tiled floor to the velvet banquettes and golden hat racks.
I also got a total kick out of this antique butcher block at the entrance, not to mention the portraits of beef cattle adorning the walls throughout the three dining rooms.
And what’s more, this restaurant offers just as much charm on the plate.
A meal here begins with a perfectly serviceable black olive tapenade, served with toasted rounds of baguette. A basket of hearty country bread follows, perfect for slathering even more of that tapenade, though I implore you to try to save room for what’s to come.
White asparagus were still in season on the day of our visit, and seeing as they were the daily special (14), my dining companion wisely snapped them right up. The asparagus were peeled and steamed to perfection before being topped with a stable, flavorful hollandaise sauce. There might have been a bit of starch (or cream) helping this hollandaise stay bound, but the flavor was on-point.
While the bottomless house-made terrine (9.50) was certainly making eyes at me, I decided to go for a more vegetal appetizer as well: the Puy lentil salad (9).
These flavorful slate-grey lentils from the Auvergne were tossed judiciously with a simple vinaigrette and topped with both fried and fresh onions. I couldn’t quite finish the generous portion – and not for lack of trying! I knew… beef was coming.
Real talk: I went through a phase where I watched a lot of Kitchen Nightmares, and many of Gordon Ramsay’s rants still live rent-free in my head, including his aghastness (OED says it’s a word…) at the fact that a so-called “steakhouse” had just two steaks on the menu. Au Boeuf Couronné does not suffer from the same problem.
Here, you’ll find six “historic” steaks dry-aged for 20 days, which include a 250-gram bavette with shallots (25) or a 300-gram “Fort des Halles” coeur d’aloyau (27). Add to that a selection of shareable steaks like a 700-gram Chateaubriand (86) or a 1200-gram beef rib (88). The “superbe” 300-gram beef onglet (26) joins these steaks under the “house specialties” section of the menu, which also boasts non-steak offerings like steak tartare (20), duck magret (22), or tête de veau (23.50). And for those looking for something a touch less imposing, the “petite faim” steaks (literally: small appetite) include a 200-gram onglet (23) or 200-gram pavé du boucher (24).
My dining companion, Allison Zinder, appropriately went for the Fort des Halles aloyau, a cut similar to a sirloin named after the “strong men” who once ate French onion soup for breakfast in the former market district in the center of the city where Allison runs her Belly of Paris tours. She ordered her steak medium – à point – and was rewarded with a perfectly rosy interior and a lovely charred exterior.
Each steak comes with the sauce of your choice – either béarnaise or au poivre. Allison got the former, which was lovely and herby with loads of tarragon.
I opted for the onglet – a hanger steak – and it more than made good on its “superbe” promise. The charred steak was sitting on a pile of caramelized shallots that lent a lovely sweetness to the mineral-forward steak.
And of course, the rare cuisson I requested was perfect.
The shallots should have meant my steak was served sauceless, but seeing as I love pepper sauce, I asked the waitress if I could order some on the side. She was a touch perplexed but delivered it happily enough – without charging me for it, may I add. It was intensely peppery and a bit lighter on the cream than some, a deviation from tradition of which I wholeheartedly approve.
Alongside our steaks, we both received a massive plate of skin-on French fries. I liked the rustic nature of these deeply burnished fries, and while they were lacking a bit in the crispiness department, Allison, a fry fan, assured me that they were definitely up to snuff. (I liked them best as a conveyance for pepper sauce, but again, fries are far from my preferred potato preparation).
Desserts include all of the classics, from chocolate mousse (8.50) to crème brûlée (9.80) to crêpes suzette flambéed in the dining room (12.80). We were far too full to even consider them… maybe next time. For there will be a next time.
Au Boeuf Couronné is one of the old guard spots I’m thrilled still exist in Paris. From its beautiful dining room to the little touches like massive steak knives and crumb removal service to the fact that it’s open every day of the week, it’s an excellent spot to have in your back pocket.
Au Boeuf Couronné – 188, Avenue Jean Jaures, 75019