Disclaimer: I was a guest of the property for this meal.
I’m forever on the lookout for French restaurants doing a great job with the classics, and Aux Crus de Bourgogne is one such spot. Located steps from the bustling rue Montorgueil in the heart of the former market district of Les Halles, this swanky bistro attracts locals and tourists alike with its menu of Parisian classics studded with a host of hearty regional delicacies.
The ambiance is a major part of the draw of this restaurant, located down a quiet side street off rue Montorgueil. In fair weather, terrace seating is prevalent and pleasant; when the weather gets cooler, the dining room, with its mosaic tiled floor and zinc bar, is the very picture of what you expect when dining in an upscale bistro like this one. Servers boast that perfect Parisian professionalism with a touch of flirty flair. Everything about it crows “old-school,” and while it was indeed founded in 1932, the bistro was purchased in 2019 by the Dumant group, which runs about ten similarly vibey French spots like Aux Bons Crus, Le Chardonnay, and Aux Lyonnais.
The moment you take a seat, you’ll be served a plate of phenomenally crispy baguette de tradition and a generous bowl of rillettes, the perfect hors d’oeuvre to accompany your perusal of the menu. At lunchtime, the à la carte offerings are joined by a lunchtime formule proposing two courses for 28 euros. Unlike many other prix fixe lunch specials, this one actually offers quite a bit of choice, with three appetizers and three mains. On the day of my visit, the starters included endive and blue cheese salad, egg with mushroom cream, and melon with port vinaigrette. The mains, meanwhile, fell into one of three categories: the “Plat Bistro” of the day was sausage with mashed potatoes; the “Grillade” was a steak with fig and cherry sauce, and the fish of the day was salmon with béarnaise.
While the appetizers du jour sounded lovely, I can never refuse a frisée aux lardons (14), and this one definitely didn’t disappoint. A bed of bitter leaves was tossed with a red wine vinaigrette made with smoky bacon fat, and huge chunks of bacon managed the perfect balance of crispy on the outside and chewy within. I come from a family that incinerates its bacon, and I often find that the lardons in France are a bit undercooked for my liking. Not so here, where the char on the outside was perfect. The only unfortunate element of this dish was the egg, which had been pre-poached to perfection but wasn’t heated all the way through before being served.
My dining companion took a cue from our charismatic host, who shared that the crayfish gratin (19) was his favorite appetizer on the menu – if not of all time. She was generous enough to share a spoonful, so I can confirm that the sweet crayfish were perfectly paired with this play on a Lyonnaise Nantua sauce made with a tomato base enriched with cream. Other à la carte starter options included escargots (16 for 6), eggs en meurette (14), and a house-made pâté en croûte (15).
Mains skew mainly meaty, including everything from classic beef bourguignon (29), steak tartare (26), and steak au poivre (35) to hearty poultry and foie gras pithiviers (32) or veal sweetbreads with cream, vin jaune, and morels (54). But we were both tantalized by the fish of the day – and I’m pleased to say that it did not disappoint. The salmon pavé was served simply, showcasing its deliciously crispy skin and perfectly tender interior. An herbaceous bearnaise was served in a small pan on the side.
A small cassolette of green beans was served alongside the salmon, though you have a choice of swapping these out for fries, mashed potatoes, salad, or spinach. Additional sides are priced at 6 euro.
My dining companion opted to add a serving of buttery mashed potatoes, which were delicious and just rich enough.
This spot is absolutely perfect for a classic French lunch, and I’ll admit now that I’ve sampled the offerings, I’m excited by the prospect of returning for dinner – and maybe saving room for dessert.
Aux Crus de Bourgogne – 3, rue Bachaumont, 75002