I often share, on my tours, how difficult it is to tell a great bakery from one that’s kind of “phoning it in” just from looking at the outside. Many of the ones sporting beautiful 19th century signage are in fact resolutely sticking to the industrialization that took Paris by storm post-Occupation: baking up molded baguettes leavened by quick-acting yeast; bringing their croissants in frozen and baking them on-site. On the flip side, some of my favorites, like Ten Belles, have a far more austere, modern exterior.
But Boris Lumé is unknowable from the outset for another reason entirely.
Beneath the classic appeal of its exterior and the gorgeous details of the tiling within, the bakery case here is positively chock-a-block with foreign influence.
Wait – don’t go! Even if you’re wedded to French tradition, you’ll love it here.
Most of the international flair at this bakery stems from the fact that it’s run by a couple – the eponymous Lumé and his Japanese wife Mihona Nishizawa – with flavors and techniques from both baking traditions informing the offerings.
This matcha-scented anpan seemed right up my alley, at first glance, with a soft, brioche-like dough concealing a generous serving of red bean paste. While the flavors were on-point, it was ultimately a bit dry (something that could have come down to the timing of my visit towards closing time.)
On the pastry side of things (which Painrisien asserts is more Lumé’s speed), sleek tarts feature classic flavors like the hazelnut-spiked Paris-Brest or strawberries-and-cream fraisier, but also matcha-raspberry and even a Snickers-inspired peanut-chocolate.
The lemon tart felt like a no-brainer, with its luscious lemon cream and pleasantly tart lemon curd on top, especially given the surprise inside…
A line of basil pesto!
This Belle Epoque beauty of a shop can be found in the equally picturesque Montmartre, and frankly, it’s well worth a visit, whether you like your bread and pastry traditional or slightly more innovative.
Next time, I’ll be sure to snag one of the croissants Patricia Wells deemed sans faute!
Boris Lum̩ Р48 Rue Caulaincourt, 75018