One of the experiences my sister, brother, and I all wanted to have was to stay in a typical ryokan, a Japanese inn, where you sleep, not in beds, but on tatami mats on the floor, and get to enjoy shared baths (yup, in the buff) and (perhaps more important, at least as far as today’s post is concerned) a traditional multi-course kaiseki meal.
Kaiseki meals are traditionally served in multiple courses, each presented on an individual tray set in front of each member of a party or gathering. Defined by Japanese technical prowess and seasonal ingredients, kaiseki meals are likely what inspired the principles of nouvelle cuisine.
Our first kaiseki meal began with a plate of small tastes: fish, tofu, broad beans, burdock root. These were enjoyed cold before moving on to the first hot course: a rich, delicious duck soup that unfortunately photographed quite poorly.
Next came sashimi, garnished with rose petals.
While we enjoyed our sashimi, we began cooking our next course: a hot pot of vegetables and seafood cooked in an aromatic broth right at the table.
This was super fresh and flavorful. I loved the way it was designed with the perfect portion in mind, no element outweighing another.
Next came my favorite dish of the night: teriyaki squid with udon noodles served with a rich, creamy sauce made from kidney beans and horseradish. This dish achieved a moreish quality thanks to a superb blending of sweet, salty, and umami flavors.
The house specialty was served next, in this beautiful porcelain bowl.
Removing the wooden lid revealed a whole, boiled persimmon topped with a sweet-and-savory miso sauce. While this was delicious, for me, the quantity was far too much. I would have been happy to split one persimmon among the three of us, rather than attempt (and fail) to conquer one on my own.
Next up was the tempura course, a combo of Japanese vegetables I’d never seen before – fuki miso, a sort of spring scape, and sansai, a kind of fiddlehead.
Rice and Japanese pickles followed – I’ve started to really enjoy the Japanese style of pickle, rich in color and funky, piquant notes.
They also temper umami-rich miso soup perfectly.
Two kinds of mochi followed. (Are we sensing a trend in my dessert tastes, yet?) The first was a more jelly-like mochi, served with fresh, seasonal strawberries and matcha cream.
The second – another seasonal specialty – was a cherry blossom mochi served with a roasted soy and matcha powder. This one was my favorite and the perfect way to end the meal… after which I was so full I nearly keeled right over.
All in all, it was the perfect introduction to the kaiseki concept and structure.
Heijo – 7 2 8 Kawakamicho, Nara, 630-8202