To review Early June with any perennity is a bit of an exercise in futility: After all, this natural wine bar just off the Canal Saint-Martin is forever renewing its chef-in-residence. By the time you read this, Chef Joel Aronsson will have departed, taking with him his spring-inspired menu boasting flavors from his native Stockholm. And yet, I can’t help but want to share the experience with you, in hopes that the next chef will continue in the same vein.
By now, of course, we know the drill: Natural wine, small plates priced at around 15 euros each (plus one massive plate that’s four times the price – here, a half-pintade with spring garlic at 45 euros). The wine expert with us asked for something bright and fruity but not too natural; there’s no wine list, but with a bit of negotiating, we were rewarded with a Côtes du Jura whose reduction blew off in no time.
The season’s bounty was highlighted, though not exactly celebrated, in this ultra-simple assembly of asparagus, radishes, and strawberries. I loved the colors – and the tarragon salt sprinkled atop the mound of raw cream for dipping – but even at 10 euros, this struck me as a bit too simple for something I want to enjoy at a restaurant.
Much more enjoyed was a dish of fresh, barely blanched green peas dotted with ethereal gobs of cloud-like goat cheese and cockles. A sprinkle of sumac added brightness to the dish so delicious we couldn’t help but order a second portion.
Some combos fell a bit flatter, like this generous portion of endives dotted with smoked eel and dill atop even more crème crue. I loved the eel – and forever love endive – but the marriage just didn’t bowl me over.
The pairing of perfectly cooked langoustines and nduja, however, totally did. I had to stop myself from sucking the carapace dry.
The silver medal ultimately went, however, to the cheese course: a 30-month Comté paired with a generous hunk of honeycomb. I miss the presence of a gilded cheese cart, of course – fairly absent these days on the dining scene – but this Comté was so expertly aged, buttery and caramelized.
And I mean… just look at that honey.
We nearly forewent dessert, but I have a hard time saying no to cheesecake, so we ordered a slice to share. With almost a ricotta texture and a very balanced sweetness, this slice boasted hunks of almond and a puddle of barely-whipped cream, not to mention a pile of halved strawberries. The perfect way to end the meal.
I’m glad to have finally visited Early June, and I’m sure I’ll return. Fellow visitors should bear in mind that this spot opens at 6pm and takes no reservations, and since it fills up super early, you’ll want to plan on a geriatric dinnertime if ever you want to snag a seat without waiting!
Early June – 19 Rue Jean Poulmarch, 75010