To those well versed in the Paris restaurant world, it’s no secret that when Grégory Marchand and the team behind Septime and Clamato opened D’Une Ile a few short years ago, they changed the world of French country dining. The property just two hours from Paris, on the border between Normandy and the Loire Valley, promises to blend luxury and rural charm. With Paris still fairly locked down, it seemed the perfect time to finally try it out.
Friends, I was not disappointed.
The property itself is expansive and lovely, surrounded by woods and doted with outdoor bars, a communal space perfect for reading, multiple tables scattered in a variety of spots with a variety of views, and not one but two swings.
There’s also a sauna – the perfect place to relax and look out over the property.
The on-site gardens are perfect for wandering (and also supply many of the seasonal ingredients used in the ever-changing dinner menu – but more on that in a bit.)
Courgettes…
…tomatoes…
…lettuce…
…rainbow chard…
…and fresh herbs are all on offer.
The least expensive room is also the newest: the Chambre d’Amis, located just off the kitchen and dining room. The simple room boasts a big king size bed and a bathtub, although you’ll want to be fairly friendly with whomever you’re sharing it with, as you can see right into the bathroom from the wooden desk.
Guests are given free rein of the property, and you can come and go as you please.
This also means that you’re free to enjoy apéro pretty much anywhere on the grounds you like. A glass of white wine is a welcome treat as you watch the sun go down.
And once it gets chilly, dinner isn’t far away.
The dining room is cozy and warm, and the prix fixe menu (44 euro) changes regularly. As you’d expect from the team behind Septime, it’s exquisite from start to end.
We started things off with a bottle of white wine from Savoie to accompany the amuse bouche.
House-cured ham (made during quarantine) sat side-by-side with a vegetarian option: house-cured crosnes. Septime doesn’t make vegetarians feel like an afterthought in any way, a philosophy that continues through the meal.
Gougères dusted with local Grand Ouy cheese proved unfortunately to be the least wow-worthy dish of the night: a bit dry and overcooked.
What followed more than made up for it: in fact, this cabbage dish was the star of the night. Slowly braised and then caramelized until brown on just one side, it effortlessly combined sweet and bitter flavors. An herb-laced yogurt with lovage and spring garlic made the perfect pair.
The main of hay-roasted chicken was a surefire crowd-pleaser.
And equal attention was paid to the vegetarian main of roasted Hélianthi – a relative of the sunchoke with a nutty flavor.
A lightly dressed salad of fresh lettuces accompanied the mains, but the standout for me in this course was the side:
A chard gratin. Now I am not usually a chard girl; in fact, it may well be the only green vegetable I actively shy away from. But this gratin had so much depth and buttery richness (not to mention a non-negligible amount of grated cheese) that it convinced me once and for all of the beauty of blettes.
I mean… just look at it.
This close to Norman bounty, it’s impossible to say no to cheese. For a small (9-euro) supplement, a beautiful cheese board of local choices appears: a cow’s milk tomme and two soft, fresh cheeses. It was nearly impossible to pick a favorite.
Dessert managed to blow almost everything out of the water: a simple apple tart with a buttery pastry base and a dollop of fresh Normandy cream. The apples were so thinly sliced that they nearly became dehydrated in the oven, and the pastry was so rich and thick that at the end, we were forced to pick it up and eat it with our fingers.
That is not a complaint.
The kitchen continued to impress the next morning with a bountiful feast: rich, whole milk yogurt with house-made granola, coffee, tea, fresh apple juice, butter, house-made fig jam, and some of the best bread I’ve ever had (reminiscent of the sourdough from Ten Belles in Paris).
Oh…
And the brioche. One mustn’t forget the brioche. Made with a combo of white and whole wheat flours, it was buttery and rich but also hearty. Next time, I’ll be pre-ordering a loaf to take home.
A stay at D’Une Ile is a wonderful experience, and while it’s not the cheapest option out there, it’s certainly one worth saving up for. I know that I, for one, will be returning. More than once.
