Le Grand Bain has been a stalwart standout of mine for years, through multiple chefs and many, many seasonal menu changes. This restaurant features a chalkboard menu guided by the seasons and helpfully arranged to include a handful each of meat-, veggie-, and fish-focused options.
My most recent visit was just one day after Chef Emily Chia, who has been running the kitchen with aplomb, took her final bow. The new chef, Fabio, was a member of Chia’s team before taking the helm, and he was on his A Game from the jump. The stalwart gougères I can never not-order were draped with lardo, emerging hot and cheesy and rich.
Burrata continues to be an omnipresent offering on Parisian tables, and while I’m frankly growing bored of it, the accompaniment here was definitely of note.
This seasonal caponata featured meltingly tender eggplant and gorgeous golden cherry tomatoes, as well as green pepper taking the place of the usual red. Its slight bitter edge turned something I usually think almost irritatingly straddles the sweet-savory divide into something nuanced and rich, thanks in large part to a heavy hand with pine nuts and currants. It was truly perfect for the season.
I was most excited for two dishes on the menu, one of which proved to be slightly disappointing. This polenta with tomato and cacio e pepe sauce was surprisingly served cold. And while the flavors were on-point, with a nice caramelized char on the polenta and a lovely vinegar zip to the super-sweet, super-ripe tomatoes, the cacio e pepe sauce was watery and a bit bland. I remain a bit confused by this one, beautiful though it was.
The steak tartare, on the other hand, was an absolute revelation. The chopped steak was seasoned with fresh raspberries and peanutty salsa macha for a seasonal play on a bistro staple I couldn’t get enough of.
Le Grand Bain… you’re still the one I love.
Le Grand Bain – 14, rue Denoyez, 75020