In the aftermath of Paris’ months-long lockdown, restaurants reopened timidly, if at all, in the early weeks of this summer. Some chose to continue with business as usual, albeit with outdoor seating. But others, like recently Michelin-starred Le Rigmarole, made their menus over.
Le Rigmarole is beloved in the 11th arrondissement for its friendly service and Japanese bintochan grill over which Chef Robert Compagnon cooks many of the dishes in the must-order prix fixe parade. On a previous visit, I had the pleasure of sampling everything from Japanese-style pickled vegetables to charred zucchini skewers to butterflied chicken hearts. But one of the standouts of my first visit was another love of husband-and-wife team Compagnon and Jessica Yang: freshly-made pasta with bottarga. Creamy and rich, it narrowly became my favorite dish of the night. So when I heard that in the pre-August months of its reopening, Le Rigmarole was going to devote itself exclusively to pasta, you can bet I made a reservation lickety split.
We began the night with an appetizer I knew well from my first visit: battered and fried spring onions. Crisp and richly flavorful, they are emblematic of the studied simplicity that I so love at Le Rigmarole.
Next, we dug into charred corn on the cob so delicious and emblematic of my childhood summers on Long Island, I nearly ordered a second portion. This would have been a mistake: we had more in store.
The menu, I was told, changed each night, but there was always a vegetarian option. On the night of our visit, it was this dish of scarpinoccs – a pasta shape I’d never heard of! – stuffed with spring garlic and ricotta. Light while also remaining hearty, it was a phenomenally crafted dish.
I, meanwhile, couldn’t help but be tempted by this grilled half-lobster with stringozzi – kind of like a thick spaghetti – sprinkled with roe and fresh chives. Rich and succulent and perfectly cooked (and also, quite helpfully, already removed from the shell and merely served there for aesthetic) this dish truly bowled me over.
Oh, and of course there was dessert: chocolat fondant with macadamia praline and grilled barley ice cream. It was just as exquisite as everything else.
Le Rigmarole – 10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 75011