It’s not often that I go to the same restaurant twice in the same week. Not only would that be a bit financially irresponsible, as far as habits go, but I have so many places I want to try on any given day that to return to a place – even a place I love – is a bit of a tough thing to justify.
But I had to go back to Marso&Co a mere five days after I went the first time. It’s that good.
Marso&Co is the brand-new little brother of Tomy Gossuet’s Tomy&Co and Hugo&Co. I’ve not yet been to the Michelin-starred former in the 7th, but the latter, in the 5th, has quickly become a recommended table of mine, not just because I adore the pork belly, but because it’s one of the only places in the 5th I can recommend without following my recommendation with “for the neighborhood.” (The 5th may be historical, but a foodie mecca it is not.)
Marso&Co is not located in one of my neighborhoods of predilection, but it’s worth the trek south – I promise.
This Mediterranean-themed menu effortlessly unites flavors from Italy, Greece, Turkey, and North Africa, accompanied by natural and sustainable wines hailing from all over the Mediterranean basin (including a lovely Tunisian Syrah).
We started things off with some roasted padrón chiles with flaked sea salt – not too spicy, as the French are wont to prefer, but delicious in their simplicity.
This sea bass tartare with minted ricotta was served on thin shards of carasao bread with pickled onions and fresh herbs for a lovely balance of flavor.
We also enjoyed a dish of confit eggplant with anchovies, tomatoes, pesto, and pine nuts. This was so good I wouldn’t let the waiter take it away, preferring to mop up the remaining sauce with fluffy, house-made focaccia.
Yum.
On our waiter’s recommendation, we also tried this bonito with tomatoes, celery, chermoula sauce, and coriander seeds. (The presence of raw celery on top of quite a few dishes was one of the only things I didn’t like about this spot – and this dish – but the bonito and sauce were exquisite.)
This dish of fregola and burrata (once more topped with raw celery) was so delightful I actually ordered it on both of my visits. The pasta was tossed with a tomato and ‘nduja sauce for a rich, unctuous, umami flavor that went perfectly with the burrata.
Please excuse this iPhone photo – the only one I have – of the garlic cream and summer truffle linguine, also delicious (and served in a cute copper pot, to boot).
Since the first iteration of this post, I’ve returned to Marso&Co and tried two new dishes: this thick slice of ananas tomato (my all-time favorite variety) topped with coriander, olives, cucumber, pickled mustard seeds, and quenelles of feta cheese with pickled shallots.
I also dug into this delicious herbed hummus with cherry tomatoes, pine nuts, and fresh herbs.
But let’s get serious, for a sec.
After taking my first bite of this lamb with apricots, spring onions, and yogurt, I actually said, unabashedly, “This is the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth.”
And I meant it.
The lamb was fall-apart-tender and richly flavored; the apricots were ripe and perfectly cooked; the yogurt paired with it a dream, and there were just enough sprigs of coriander and chervil on top to lend lightness and a beautiful verdant color.
Oh, my, God this dish.
It was served with a side of truly delicious seasoned rice topped with slivered almonds, but I ate this on its own rather than take any flavor away from the purity of the lamb.
Dessert didn’t disappoint, either.
Warm pasteis de nata with chocolate-coffee ganache for dipping…
…and heavenly rice pudding topped with a colorful combo of pomegranate, pistachio, and cinnamon.
Marso&Co – 16 Rue Vulpian, 75013