Whether it’s bouchons in Lyon or bistros in Paris, there are certain historic, time-tested categories of restaurants that, these days, are being eschewed by locals in favor of more contemporary fare. But nine times out of ten, when visitors to Paris ask me for spots to go, they want tradition. So I’ve taken it upon myself, of late, to seek out the best in the bistro category and share my findings with you all.
(Selfless, I know.)
It was thanks to the recommendation of a trusted friend that I ended up at le Bistrot de Paris on a recent frigid fall evening, looking forward to comfort food fare in a storied dining room. And le Bistrot de Paris more than delivered. Founded in 1965 in a space that has been home to a restaurant since 1848, this spot exudes Old World charm, from the (not too) dim lighting of the Art Nouveau ceiling fixtures to the black-and-white aproned waiters who are quick with a joke. (A little less quick with service, but we’re quibbling, now.)
The menu at Bistrot de Paris is rife with old favorites, with appetizers like organic egg-mayo, French onion soup, escargots, leek vinaigrette, or smoked and marinated herring to be served out of a massive terrine brought to the table. I was leaning towards the latter (and not in the least because ever since reading about it in Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast, I’ve craved it every time I see it on a menu), but I couldn’t help but order the majestic pile of céleri remoulade two Swiss diners at the table just next to ours were enjoying (most of the diners on this Tuesday, by the way, were foreign). This iteration of the homey celery root salad was only improved by whole grains of mustard lacing the creamy sauce and a generous smattering of chives over the top.
In terms of mains, the choices continue to skew just as traditional as you’d hope: house-made duck confit, AAAAA andouillette with mustard sauce, steak au poivre, skate wing with browned butter and caper sauce. It bears mentioning that there was even a vegetarian option – roasted cauliflower with gribiche sauce – which shows that the times are indeed a-changing.
My dining companion went for a yellow Landes chicken served with creamy polenta and root vegetables. It was drizzled with a touch of jus and boasted the perfect crispy skin.
I, meanwhile, couldn’t help but continue in what has accidentally become a quest of mine…
…try every beef bourguignon in the capital. This one came in its own cast iron cocotte, which the server opened tableside to ladle out the generous portion.
The beef was so tender I could eat it with a spoon, and the sauce, while laced with wine, was definitely not as rich or overpowering as some. I enjoyed the mix of root vegetables that accompanied it, with parsnips and purple carrots joining the potatoes and more typical orange carrots. And while it hasn’t dethroned my current favorite bourguignon in Paris, which I tried not so long ago at Polidor, it’s certainly an excellent option.
We eschewed dessert, but if you visit, I’d highly recommend you save room: Gargantuan options abound, from chocolate mousse served à la louche (by the ladle) to a massive house-made profiterole. If you want something slightly more demure, this tart of the day – apple, by the looks of it – seemed lovely. (And I’m a sucker for a dessert cart, after all.)
Le Bistrot de Paris – 33, rue de Lille, 75007