Good, classic bistros, as I’ve mentioned ad nauseum, are a dying breed, in Paris. Or at least, they have been. From copious plates of hearty food, the pendulum of Paris dining swung most decidedly in favor of seasonal small plates. But after a few years (and, oh yeah, a global pandemic), the bistro is reemerging on the local dining scene once more… with a few caveats. Dishes are brighter, lighter, and more contemporary. But you’ll leave these spots full – even if you have a hearty appetite. Case in point? Loupiotes.
I had the pleasure of dining at this 11th arrondissement bistro recently. It currently boasts a lovely terrace thanks to Mayor Anne Hidalgo’s move to expand outdoor dining into the street, but I can imagine that in different times, the indoor dining room would exude the coziness one hopes for in a bistro.
With an ever-evolving wine list offering a range of natural, biodynamic, organic, and conventional bottles, Loupiotes has a casual, convivial quality I love. The floor manager dropped by with a big carafe of water and explained that there were no wines by the glass; they’ll open anything you like, and price it reasonably if you elect not to take the whole bottle. And so, armed with a sparkling Loire Valley gamay, we perused the day’s chalkboard menu.
Loupiotes is technically a rotisserie, but it offers a wide range of vegetarian and fish-focused options too. And seeing as the portions here zoom back towards the more copious ones that once defined French restaurant dining, I opted to order two appetizers. This one was the first dish that caught my eye: pork ravioli with grilled corn, popcorn, and chile. Chile heat is nearly unheard of in French cuisine, something that immediately piqued my interest (and suggested that despite Loupiotes’ classic vibe, the food was anything but). Sure enough, this dish offered a blend of flavors that tasted far more American than French, with a thick ravioli skin offering chew and the delightful crunch of popcorn. Balanced with the herbaceous quality of coriander, this was a winner for me.
My other appetizer proved simpler in conception but no less delicious. Ribbons of impossibly ripe cantaloupe were dressed with dollops of herbed goat cheese. Fresh herbs and grilled balsamic cucumber – a new one, for me – were scattered over the top. This dish seemed to effortlessly marry sweet and savory, with the acid from the goat cheese offering a pleasant counterbalance to the honeyed sweetness of the cantaloupe.
Mains were pleasantly far more traditional: roast lamb with cumin; farm-raised rotisserie chicken with butter. Each was offered with a choice of potatoes or vegetables, and the former proved masterful: rich and flavorful without being greasy. The lamb was served with a dollop of preserved lemon curd, which I found to be an interesting choice to cut through the richness of the lamb.
A fish option of hake with rice pilaf, spinach, and raspberry sauce or a vegetarian option of charred eggplant with artichoke, confit garlic cream, and Parmesan rounded out the offerings nicely.
A selection of cheese from Quatrehomme was certainly tempting, but at this point, we were already too full for dessert… not that that stopped us. This vanilla, pecan, and caramel millefeuille was expertly constructed with pitch-perfect sweetness.
But there was no real contest for the dessert crown. That honor went to this seasonal peach pavlova with lemon verbena and cardamom. With a combination of raw peaches and a peach gel, crisp meringue, and cream, it was the perfect way to end this meal.
Loupiotes joins an already saturated neighborhood featuring Septime, Clamato, and Louie Louie within easy walking distance. And honestly? That suits me fine. I hope I never have to struggle to get a table at this sweet restaurant with its lovely (Anglophone!) staff, whether it’s for a full meal or a glass of wine on the terrace.
Loupiotes Р3 Rue Jules Vall̬s, 75011