When people ask me what I eat when I venture home to New York, the responses come unbidden, without thinking: “Anything spicy, bagels, half-sour pickles, and sushi.” Paris has a lot to offer in terms of exquisite culinary experiences, but I can’t help missing my hometown for this handful of options.
It’s not that Paris doesn’t have any sushi. It does. It’s just that that perfect place where financially accessible and delicious meet is hard to come by in my adopted home. Most of the sushi spots I’ve been to that I can afford are ho-hum, and I don’t quite have the wallet to go to some of the omakase counters I dream of. But one thing that I am seeing more of in Paris is izakayas, and while this doesn’t entirely scratch the sushi itch, it’s certainly welcome.
Jinchan Shokudo is one such place, an izakaya concept conceivedf by Miyo and Alban Cacae that seeks to bring the feel of this popular Japanese dining style to Paris, complete with a full list of sakes from Japan, France, and beyond and a load of small plates to choose from.
On a recent visit, I sampled quite a few small plates, ordered in waves to ensure each could be enjoyed at its best. The simplest, ordered from the Otsumami (translated on-menu as apéritif) came first: edamame served simply sprinkled with sel de Guérande. Nothing bad to say about them – they were exactly what I was expecting and thus perfect.
The shake kawa chips were interesting if a bit too much. The dish saw salmon skin cooked into crispy chips and served with a shichimi-seasoned Japanese mayonnaise. While I love salmon – and salmon skin – this dish unfortunately resulted in a fat-on-fat-on-fat feeling, and the fishiness wasn’t rich but rather a bit unpleasant. I had one or two of these before throwing in the towel (but kept the mayonnaise for later!)
The izakaya section was more promising. The first round featured my winner of the day: Salmon Nanbanzuke, which saw thin slices of Norwegian salmon marinated and fried, served with a lightly vinegar-spiked dashi, shiso leaves, turnip, and lemon. The dish offered the perfect blend of sweet and savory flavors and was ultra moreish.
The Nasu Dengaku, a grilled half-eggplant seasoned with miso, yuzu, and sesame, was equally delicious and cooked to tender perfection.
The next round was tasty too: a soft-boiled farm-raised egg marinated for 24 hours in dashi lacked the molten heart I’d hoped would coat the bowl of steamed rice, but it was yummy.
The Maguro Shiso Ae from the Umi No Sachi section of the menu was more than worth the slightly higher price tag for its rich combination of sesame oil, soy sauce, shiso leaf, sesame, and tender tuna.
With prices ranging from around 5 to 8 euros for veggie options and 12 to 13 for most fish dishes (excluding the toro and sashimi options), this izakaya is ultra reasonable and a fun place to snag sharing portions of loads of choices. Plus for those with a heartier appetite, they also offer donburi bowls. Service is swift and knowledgeable, with staff more than willing to help novices navigate the sake menu. All in all, a total treat in Paris.
Jinchan Shokudu, 154 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 75012