I’m not usually a huge fan of Italian restaurants. I pretty much always feel like my mom could do a better job, unless it’s a true-blue red sauce joint, in which case I find that the portions are so big I need to plan a nap for right after. Polpette manages to deviate from both of these expectations with bright flavors and a contemporary ambiance.
Polpette’s selection of small plates, pastas, and wood-oven cooked pizzas are served in this bright, airy dining room dominated by a metal cage that leaves no secret to what this space in the heart of Paris’ Red Light District used to be.
Like the dining room, the plates effortlessly combine tradition and modernity. The arancini, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, were richly flavored and perfect for sharing.
Yum.
The kitchen was kind enough to let me order half-portions of a few mains, which is pretty much the ideal way to conquer my heart.
This gnocchi with tomatoes and clams was recommended by my Neapolitan waiter and it didn’t disappoint. Rich and savory, it was perfectly seasoned, and the gnocchi were so pillowy they positively melted in my mouth.
Of course I couldn’t miss the namesake polpette, or meatballs, which can either be served with pasta or with salad. These too hit all the marks: richly flavored, super tender, and glazed with just enough zingy tomato sauce.
I’ll admit to being slightly less thrilled by the desserts, which are nevertheless developed under the watchful eye of the owner’s father-in-law, Chef Jean-Paul Duquesnoy. I’m not usually a huge dessert fan anyway, but I found these a bit old-fashioned in their plating, with tons of cream, powdered sugar, and other garnishes that took away from the flavors.
I’ll admit, however, that I had a special soft spot for this Neapolitan-style citrus cake, served atop a super zingy lemon curd.
The restaurant also boasts a full menu of wines by the glass and the bottle and a few specialty cocktails. And if you head into the cage in the center of the dining room, you’ll emerge in a private karaoke room downstairs, perfect for a night out.
Polpette – 41-43 Rue de la Rochefoucauld, 75009