Le Polidor is one of Saint-Germain’s most time-tested restaurants, founded in 1845 and a one-time favorite of such writers and artists as Boris Vian, André Gide and Ernest Hemingway. It’s perhaps no wonder Woody Allen chose it to film scenes from his Midnight in Paris: It’s easy, upon walking into the wood-lined dining room filled with elbow-to-elbow tables to imagine that nothing has changed here in decades.
I recently returned to Polidor, which I hadn’t visited since 2023, and while the ambiance is just as enchanting, I found the food far from as exciting – so much so that I blamed myself. I wondered, when I left, if it was my palate that had changed… but in examining my photos from my earlier visit, I can confirm: Le Polidor is slipping.
But there is still an argument for coming here, which all hinges on the time-tested décor and adherence to the principles of conviviality.
Unless you’re a party of six, it’s likely you’ll have to share your table, as we did with two other couples dining together, who happily gifted us the last of their (excellent) escargots (11.80 for six).
Given the heat, we opted to order a bit lighter, starting with the egg-mayo (5.90), which, in breaking with past experiences (and reviews) claiming service here is slow, landed mere moments later. I found this play on the classic laudably creative, with a pea-infused mayonnaise, crispy bacon, steamed green peas, and a generous dousing of pickled mustard seeds.
Unfortunately, the egg itself was woefully overcooked. And despite the on-menu promise of an organic oeuf, my years living with an egg snob make me fairly confident that the egg itself was nothing special.
Our second starter was perhaps slightly more successful: a zucchini carpaccio with ricotta and pistachios (7). While the portion was small, the quantity of pistachios was generous, and I did like the pairing. It lacked a bit of seasoning, but it was perfectly fine smothered on the good-quality traditional baguette.
Polidor has always been famous for its beef bourguignon, and I remembered loving it on my first visit, waxing poetic about its “appropriately wine-forward sauce (which) managed to be sumptuously rich without being overwhelming.” But this… was not that. These days, the bourguignon (19.9), while certainly tender, lacked the richness and flavor I remembered. The sauce was far thinner, and the carrots way less precise. The mash is still good, silky and luxurious, but the beef itself was disappointing and almost dry, paling in comparison to my memories.
Far more successful was the Provençal play on steak tartare (17.5), which paired toothsome morsels of tender, hand-cut beef with loads of briny olives, caper berries, anchovies, sun-dried tomatoes, and crispy fried onions.
I also really liked the accompaniment: teeny pommes mitraille, boiled-and-sautéed new potatoes seasoned with garlic.
For dessert, we split the house specialty: tarte tatin (7.90). It was nice enough, with very caramelized apples that had dissolved into near applesauce piled atop a puff pastry base that had gone a bit soggy, though not unpleasantly so. The accompanying soured crème fraiche was a nice touch to counteract all that richness.
In sum, Polidor is perfectly decent, and the dining room is lovely. The prices are very reasonable, especially given the area, but if you’re coming here, keep in mind that it’s more for the vibes than the food.
Polidor – 41 Rue Monsieur Le Prince, 75006