The small plates trend has become the norm in Paris, particularly on the Right Bank. And while part of me is surprised that it still has so much traction considering the pandemic, the other part of me remains just as pleased as I always have been at the possibility of being able to try many dishes – even if now I always ask for a side plate.
As Paris restaurants begin to reopen their sidewalk terraces in advance of full opening (hopefully for June 22), many restaurants are offering slightly reduced menus. Such is the case for Les Enfants Perdus, a small wine bar and restaurant offering a menu of small plates, many boasting a slight international twist.
Les Enfants Perdus is not reinventing the wheel. On its menu on one recent visit were now-stalwart Parisian staples like burrata with tomatoes and arugula, a cheese board, or steak tartare.
On offer, too, was a plethora of carpaccios and crudos – another new Parisian favorite – like this three-part exploration of tuna in the form of carpaccio, tartare, and seseame-crusted tataki. It boasted a nice citrus brightness and was aided with a drizzle of fruity olive oil, but it won’t be winning any medals for creativity.
Two of my favorite dishes of the night were ones that pushed the envelope: the asparagus up top, served with a fresh egg yolk and a moreish sabayon, and this ceviche, with sesame seeds, sesame oil, and bright bursts of pomegranate arils.
Of course, that isn’t to say that simplicity can’t be a winner. This pelardon goat cheese with rosemary and olive oil fit the definition of comfort food to a tee – especially with some celebratory white wine.
Just steps from the Canal Saint-Martin, Les Enfants Gâtés manages to appeal to a wide cross-section by playing it relatively safe on all fronts: good, not-too-natural wine; good, not-too-adventurous plates; decent prices; and, above all for these pandemic times, a lovely sidewalk terrace.
Les Enfants Perdus Р9 Rue des R̩collets, 75010