I’ve been beating my “French people don’t go out to eat French food anymore” drum for a while now, so I won’t linger too long on the subject before presenting the restaurant that, to my mind, is making it cool again: Bouillon Pigalle. You may recognize the branding from another recent review, this time of Bouillon République, but big sister Bouillon Pigalle is the O.G. The one that started it all.
The one whose oeuf-mayo is the most popular dish ordered on Deliveroo.
Honestly, I understand why. It’s got that perfect blend of jammy yolk and bright, acidic, mustardy mayonnaise. It’s not trying to be more than it is, and in exercising such restraint, it’s perfect.
The other appetizers are similarly executed examples of simple perfection. Escargots pair wonderfully with Poujaran bread; the French onion soup is just as deep and complex as the one I enjoyed at République, topped, here, with a more traditional Gruyère instead of the Cantal used at the third arrondissement address.
Mains, meanwhile, tend towards the hearty and heavy, like this tête de veau (veal’s head) with sauce gribiche and potatoes. Gelatinous and rich, it is absolutely demanding the acidity of a glass of red wine to wash it down.
Luckily, Bouillon Pigalle more than delivers on that front, too.
My preference was undoubtedly for this lamb-and-bean situation, which sees lamb braised for seven hours and settled atop meltingly tender white beans. The carrot and fresh herbs were a nice touch to add a bit of lightness, but don’t be fooled: This is undoubtedly a winter dish.
The original chain restaurants – and, perhaps, the original “fast food,” – bouillons are crowded, and service is quick. Don’t expect to linger here, except in the line out front. (Unlike République, Pigalle doesn’t take reservations.) But the low prices (around 4 euros for an appetizer – 2.40 for egg-mayo – or 10ish for a main) and high quality will conquer your heart…
… as will the profiteroles with fresh cream ice cream.
Bouillon Pigalle – 22 boulevard de Clichy, Paris 18