In a city so synonymous with a host of classic dishes, from escargots to French onion soup to croque monsieur, it’s forever surprising to visitors how ho-hum, middling, or just plain bad most iterations of classic French bistro fare truly are in the capital. (Find out more about that with my story on why French bistros are museums of their former selves.)
Bouillon République is not a bistro. It’s actually a member of a whole other category of restaurant I’ll be discussing on Navigating the French with the inimitable Allison Zinder very soon. And yet categorization aside, it may well be my favorite place to dig into classics associated with the bistro – and with French fare in general.
Bouillon République is the little sister of Bouillon Pigalle, the neo-bouillon that took Paris by storm in 2017 with its criminally low prices and rave-worthy egg-mayo. This iteration of the mini-chain has the advantage of being 1) In the beautiful, truly gargantuan space formerly occupied by Alsatian brasserie Chez Jenny and 2) Closer to my house.
The menus at each place are similar without being identical. Bouillon République offers the same three egg halves topped with creamy, rich house-made mayonnaise that earned the Pigalle iteration of the chain its acclaim (as much for its quality as for its low, low price of 2.20).
Present too is a truly delightful iteration of French onion soup: rich and brothy and gratinéed, not with Comté, but with Auvergnat Cantal (aka potentially the original cheddar… but that’s another story for another day).
But République also has a few novel tricks up its sleeve, like a delicious version of one of my favorite bistro classics – leek vinaigrette – scattered with herbs and crushed nuts and boasting the perfect balance of acidity and sweetness.
The staple beef bourguignon of Pigalle is replaced, at République, with carbonnade, a Northern French beef stew that sees wine replaced by beer.
The dining room at Bouillon République is festive and lively, and the service is efficient if a bit harried, but that’s part of the charm. And République does also boast one major benefit over Pigalle: Unlike its older sibling, it takes reservations.
Bouillon République – 39 boulevard du Temple, 75003