Paris is home to loads of markets – over 100 – but perhaps not the kind of markets that most Americans expect.
When Americans go to the market, they expect it to be a farmer’s market: the salespeople are, we assume, the same people who grew or produced the things that they’re selling. In Paris, this is rarely the case: while many markets will have at least one or two producers, there are very few markets in which the sellers are all producers. In fact, in a large number of cases, the people standing behind market stands purchased their wares in the same place as your local grocery store did.
Another type of market that you won’t see nearly as much in Paris as you do, for example, in London, Copenhagen, or Amsterdam, is the street food market, where a number of stalls sell prepared food. While that trend has yet to really take the French capital by storm, we do have one iteration of it in the oldest covered market in Paris: the Marché des Enfants Rouges.
Established in 1628, the Marché des Enfants Rouges combines aspects of both of these types of market: stalls sell fruits and vegetables, fish, meat, and cheese, but other stalls sell prepared foods, which can be enjoyed at tables on the edge of the market. In addition to these stalls, the market also hosts a handful of restaurants, one of which l’Estaminet des Enfants Rouges, is home to one of my favorite – if atypical – steak tartares in Paris.
Generally speaking, steak tartare is raw beef seasoned with shallot, mustard, egg, parsley, and capers. It’s one of my favorite brasserie dishes to order, in large part because it’s the sort of thing I would never make at home.
But at l’Estaminet, the steak tartare takes on a slightly Asian flair: seasoned with soy sauce, coriander, and lemongrass, it’s fresh and completely different from versions you’ll find elsewhere in the capital. (It’s also chopped rather than ground, which is a whole debate in Paris. I ascribe to neither side and love both.)
In addition to the tartare, I sampled this tartlet with shallots and blue cheese: super delicious and just the right size.
The vegetable side of things was represented by this simple yet delicious salad of Puy lentils, mache, carrots, avocado, and shallot. Yes, it’s the kind of thing I could easily make at home, but that didn’t make it any less tasty.
L’Estaminet’s outdoor seating makes it the perfect place to people-watch in the market, though it does make it tough to find a seat on a busy Saturday. Book ahead or visit this spot during the week for an enjoyable meal accompanied by a nice selection of natural wines.
L’Estaminet des Enfants Rouges -Â 39 Rue de Bretagne, 75003