Pierre Touitou made a name for himself with his marriage of creative innovation and fine dining flair, and at 19 Saint-Roch, steps from the Louvre, he’s created the perfect stage for his technique-driven fusion fare starring only the best French ingredients.
Category: Restaurant Reviews
Vermillon is a Casual Neighborhood Bistro Championing Tasty Simplicity
What makes Vermillon a bistro, to me, is less its flavor than its soul: simplicity, conviviality, and warmth abound, making it the kind of place one could easily imagine becoming a cantine, the sort of neighborhood joint you head to, not for the exquisiteness of the food, but for the vibes, the reliability, and the reasonable prices. And that’s just one of the things that makes it a laudable address.
Polidor’s Vibe is Still There but the Food is Mid at Best
Le Polidor is one of Saint-Germain’s most time-tested restaurants, founded in 1845 and a one-time favorite of such writers and artists as Boris Vian, André Gide and Ernest Hemingway. It’s perhaps no wonder Woody Allen chose it to film scenes from his Midnight in Paris: It’s easy, upon walking into the wood-lined dining room filled with elbow-to-elbow tables to imagine that nothing has changed here in decades.
La Marine is the Local Café Every Neighborhood in Paris Needs
I was so tempted to gatekeep this sprawling café overlooking the Canal Saint-Martin… but lucky for you all, I like you too darn much. So here you go: my favorite café, which ticks pretty much every box you need for a local. It’s open all day every day; the service is genial, efficient, and friendly. And the food is really, really good. Is it a destination? Absolutely not – and that’s so not the point. It’s the kind of place you can reserve at, if you want to, but you can also saunter in at any time of day and eat well.
La Bourse et la Vie Dresses Bistro Classics Up in Fine Dining Regalia
Well-executed French classics have become a bit of a rarity in a city more interested in innovative, fusion fare, but American Chef Daniel Rose’s love of traditional French cuisine shines at his La Bourse et La Vie. Make no mistake: Despite claims to the contrary, this is not a bistro, but rather a fine dining restaurant masquerading as one – with the prices to match. But given the way Rose delivers on the flavors, in my book, that’s a perfectly fine compromise.
Coyote is a Lively Bar Hiding a Phenomenal Menu
Le Coyote is a bustling new spot in the Marais positioning itself as a queer saloon, and from the fringe on the lamps to the swinging doors leading to the bar surrounded by all manner of mostly femme-presenting folks, it delivers. The food here is exquisite; the service less so. But enjoy it as a bar with excellent small plates, and you’ll have a wonderful time.
Mesa Offers a Rich Parade of Plant-Based Flavors in Pigalle
The restaurant is located in the HOY hotel, a wellness-driven space just south of picturesque Montmartre. And while occasionally, hotel restaurants can feel sterile or veer so far into crowd-pleasing territory as to be a bit… meh, here, there’s some serious vegan cooking going on, none of which feels like health food. On the contrary, generosity comes center-stage, and if ever the balance is off, it’s always in favor of richness.
La Grille Montorgueil Is a Standout Bistro
This historic bistro may well be home to the oldest zinc bar in Paris – and it’s also a great place for steak-frites and other traditional bistro specialties.
Oktobre is a Delicious, Surprisingly Spicy Take on Contemporary French Dining
There are two words in French for “spicy:” épicé and pimenté. The first refers to actual spices, which, it must be said, are rare in traditional French cuisine (thanks in large part…
Datil Is a Sincere, Delicious Plant-Driven Adventure
Datil is a plant-driven restaurant in the Marais taking a sincere, mindful approach to excellent sourcing… and thankfully, for once, I didn’t feel beaten over the head by this (laudable) philosophy. Instead, the story is shown on the plates, which marry a wonderful generosity that I think people often fear plant-based food will lack with judicious touches of sweetness and acidity.