Juveniles casts itself as a wine bistrot, and it certainly fits the part. Sitting down at one of these tables feels a bit more like you’re pulling up a chair in a wine shop, and oenophiles have got more than enough choice. For nearly 40 years, the team here has specialized in more off-the-beaten-track wines, from Andalusian sherries to the once-maligned vintages from the Beaujolais or Languedoc.
But while the wine list is definitely a major draw, there is also some serious cooking going on here.
The ever-changing menu is dotted with just a handful of classics, like country terrine (9) or house-made foie gras (20). These exist alongside some truly creative dishes that just barely bear the imprint of bistro stalwarts. On the day of our visit, appetizers included cuttlefish with watercress coulis, kumquat, garlic brown butter, and chili (19) as well as char-kissed mackerel with sorrel cream and lemony radish salad (14).
I almost ordered the mackerel but ultimately ordered the veal tartare (19), and I definitely wans’t disappointed. It arrived in a generous, casual tumble strewn with just a few bright, peppery rocket leaves. A roasted garlic yogurt topped generously with za’atar and preserved lemon added both earthy depth and just the right note of bright acidity. The hand-cut meat was toothsome yet tender, and a few crispy “chips” made with seasonal artichoke were a creative, seasonal touch. The seasoning – and portion size – were pure perfection. If it’s not yet clear, this appetizer blew me away.
Spring’s omnipresent asparagus (22) was just as delicious. Here, green asparagus were cooked until perfectly al dente and draped with thin sheets of guanciale. A soft-boiled egg vinaigrette was scented generously with bright dill fronds. The result was far from forgettable (as so many asparagus offerings can unfortunately be).
From here, however, things fell into a common yet forgivable trope. The mains proved slightly less exciting than the starters, though I give them a pass seeing as these are real entrées portioned and designed for adult diners, with protein, starch, and veg all accounted for. A la carte options included lamb with gnocchi, fava beans, spinach, artichokes, spring garlic, olive, and mint (36) as well as an entrecôte steak for two, cooked rare and served with mashed potatoes and salad (75).
The duck breast (29) came in an herbaceous pool of tarragon-scented jus accompanied by grenaille potatoes, bok choi, turnips, and carrots. A pile of house-made beetroot “ketchup” was an interesting and assertively smoky accompaniment that ate more like barbecue sauce. Its only flaw? It was perhaps a bit overwhelming in quantity.
My skate wing (30) was unfortunately overpowered by a heavy hand with both salt and garlic, and the promised orange in the fish soup broth got lost behind these more assertive flavors. The accompanying fennel, broccolini, and sweet spring potatoes were lovely, as was the generosity of the dill in the aioli, but this wasn’t my favorite dish of the day.
Cheeses offer a nod to the British roots of the founders, featuring Colton Basset Stilton (9) and Montgomery’s Cheddar (9) alongside Brie de Meaux (8) and Saint-Nectaire (8), each of which is proposed with its ideal wine pairing. Desserts included a riz au lait with salted butter caramel (11) or a chocolate moelleux with ganache and tea crème anglaise (13).
We opted for a a lemon verbena panna cotta (14), whose generous toppings made it really sing. A lovely rhubarb compote and fresh spring strawberries were the standouts. The almond crumble was crisp and crunchy in the vein of most French crumbles, and I’ll admit that I had harbored hopes of something a bit richer and stodgier, given the English roots of the restaurant’s founders.
Juveniles may sometimes prove uneven, but it’s still a phenomenal option, particularly for the neighborhood. Ultimately, it delivers generous portions of seasonal, heart-driven cooking that showcases what’s actually and delicious on the Parisian dining scene… without scaring away less adventurous diners. If you want your own plate of good meat, good potatoes, and a glass of excellent wine, this is the place for you.
Juveniles – 47, rue de Richelieu, 75001